Go for low-sheen/satin finish that provides good washability and premium finish (again provided that your wall surface is smooth). No worries on fading on interior paints, fading normally occurs due to organic pigments being degraded from UV. Normally in normal interior condition no issue for internal paint ya. Just go for reliable brands, some brands' economic range are powdery.

Does matex/maxilite you mentioned before won't have powdery/chalky issue once they dried up? I plan to buy 18L if that's the case. Save some for my cold room(metal).

Have been using matex/maxilite for my project works so far no problem. I am not sure about your cold room metal material, but matex/maxilite these types of copolymer/modified acrylic paints are only suitable for wall surfaces (masonry, brick and plaster etc.)

My contractor finally finish my hse work..
It's new hse come with dev paint matt white however when I touch it a little chalky..
So I going do below please gv me your view..
Use 2 coat of sealer
https://www.nipponpaint.com.my/products/sea...400-Wall-Sealer
Then another 2 coat of topcoat
https://www.nipponpaint.com.my/products/topcoat/EasyWash

Am I correct or I do it wrongly?
Aside from paint the wall with above I also want to paint my plaster ceiling with same paint.. Please let me know some comment

For Nippon Paint products, if it is not very chalky then use

1 coat of 5200 Wall Sealer
2 coats of Easywash or other finishing as per your preference

If it is very chalky/powdery, I would advise using solvent base sealer such as Hi-bond wall sealer or 5170 acrylic wall sealer to replace 5200 wall sealer. However you have to ensure good air flow for your house and nobody staying in it for some times as solvent based paint can be really smelly.

Oh, so wall sealer 1 coat is sufficient? possible i paint it and leave it 2hr then i paint easywash? since the recoating spec is min 2hr..

Another thing, the wall sealer have alot number but i see website looks ntg diff from description.. 5200 and 5400, while 5200 expensive 50% compare to 5400.
While 5170 is more expensive, its like finishing easy wash price.. i think mine not so chalky till need 5170 haha.. So i just wonder why choose 5200 over 5400?

For chalky/powdery wall....what is recommended when cannot power wash..?
Scrape as much as can, then wall sealer n paint?

For chalky/powdery wall....what is recommended when cannot power wash..?
Scrape as much as can, then wall sealer n paint?

Assuming it is an indoor wall and there is no water leak issue (paint not bubbling)
Scrape off will be tough since its old paint. Unless you're stronk like body builder.

I recommend to get a power sander to strip everything off to bare cement plaster.
One problem with old paint is that it sticks so good to the wall when you try to scrape off.
But the old paint rips off the moment you try to roll on new paint.

Once kena new paint, the solvent of the new seeps into the old paint and loosens the old paint from the wall. As paint is also sticky enough (its designed to be sticky to adhere to the wall) it rips off (by combination of chemical - solvent and physical - you rolling the roller) and the entire roller is fully coated (fxxxed up) with old paint. And now the roller is gunked up and you have to clean the whole thing. New paint is costly to be used as paint remover :lol:

If wanna try to just roll sealer over existing, IF the same thing happens (gunked up roller) with the sealer, ultimately still need to sand off or strip off the old paint already.

Bosch power sander available at 130-140 bucks. Will create iraq desert storm.

The other alternative is need to buy lots and lots of paint stripper chemical.. but after buying ten tins already can buy the bosch sander machine. This one less dust but toxic fumes issue.

Then use sealer (affordable water based one will be ok if its not severe issue).. if very powdery or a lot of whitish stuff come out by itself then consider using oil/solvent based sealer (much more expensive) as you might have to treat the alkalinity problem as well.

After that can paint over with finish coats.

To add on ceo684 reply above, if the chalk is on top of the old paint surface and the old paint film still binds well to your wall, then can just wipe off the powder on surface, let it dry and apply solvent based styrene-acrylic wall sealer before your next coat of finishing.

Do take note if your existing paint is solvent base then have to check on the type of the paint used to avoid solvent attack, if existing paint is water based then no problem. The only downside from this  is the pungent smell produced from the solvent.

Thanks for replies, something to dwell on.
One other question, is there some way to check what is causing the chalking/powdery issue....like check wall acidity/alkality etc. Seems like local painters/shop don't do this. Overseas some country have master painter certification for tradesmen doing paint jobs but not here.

How much does it cost roughly to repaint a 22x75 double storey house internal and external including labour in Selangor? Assuming normal nippon paint.

Hi to all sifus

May I know which is better Jotun Majestic Perfect Beauty & Care vs Jotun Majestic True Beauty Matt in term of colour? Any big different for indoor ie the living room?

Not much difference in term of sheen and colour between True Beauty Sheen vs Perfect beauty & Care, both are low sheen and looks great on perfectly smooth skim coated walls. Go for Majestic Truee Beauty Matt is you prefer matt finish.

Hi guys, what's the market rate for interior wall painting (condo, labour only) nowadays ya?

New condo, atm only painted 'sui cat' on by developer.