This need proper insulation like Monier Radenshield. It is the IR transmission u need to block against, inside the roof.

Can use a bucket and wipe with damp cloth.
https://www.brewers.co.uk/know-how/problem-.../chalky-surface

If its really chalky all over preferably use any interior sealer (no name or nippon 5100/5400 whichever is cheaper) to bond n hold the surface
then paint over.

Im sure hardware shops sells paint.

as for borders and cornices, u can use newspaper rather than tape? I have the same fear of tape peeling off the existing paint

I am not sure where to ask this, this is the most relevant active topic I could think of asking this question.

My scenario goes like this, I have asked my contractor to remove the tile in my kitchen wall (5 feet from floor) and ask them to patch them accordingly (I guess by cement render). But then the over filled the area, making it not level with the remaining top section of the wall. My question is, can I sand down the cement render to make it level with the existing wall?

If you want a smooth even looking wall, hack off some cement plaster of the entire wall and do a skim coating.

That's what I asked him to do. But he has been delaying my request on that wall and saying that his painter will do that last.

I am planning for the worst, to level them myself. Only sanding down the cement is what I could think off. Skim coating isn't something that I could master in few try.

Firstly, I think there is a misunderstanding and price quote between you and the contractor regarding the job scope.

Removing the wall tiles and replastering that area wont give a smooth cement rendering with the untiled wall even if he is a sifu.

In your contractor's opinion, he has DONE the job....hack off the tiles and replaster.

Sanding down doesnt work as you will still notice the overlap join area.

The painter would most likely use the putty filler to 'smoothen' the join area to make is less obvious.

I don't mind if it is 2-3mm off. But this is 10mm off. I guess that is "Malaysian Standard"

And yeah, the painter only smoothen the transition..

10mm is very thick .... any photos ?

Hi, I was quoted RM2,300 for painting whole unit (~1200sf), ceiling, 5doors and grille. Labor only not including material. May I ask is this price reasonable nowadays?
If not, any recommendation for painter?

Thank in advance for your reply

I think that price is quite standard.

Which is why i'm opting to paint house myself, although noob about it.

Approach any paint shops.... they will have contacts.

Want to ask, can see this cacat thing around induction cap and holes on the wall.

Before i re-paint this area, how should i fix it? Need to buy cement, or putty or anything else? Need guidance






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Cement

Pretty standard around 3.5-4k all inclusive. Materials depends on what you wanna paint (colour or just economy matex white), generally about RM1.2k-1.5k thereabouts for materials and colour paint-e.g. nippon easywash and also depending on how much wall area to be painted). And depends on whether you also repainting the doors (1 door almost 1L gloss generally)

It does save 70% or so (labour cost) since you are the bangla

Anything deeper than mousepad thickness/cigarette thickness should use cement to fix.
Putty doesn't do well for very deep repairs. Its more towards a "dryer skim coat in a tub" equivalent.

Thanks!

I helped my friend to repaint once. His unit is half of my unit size, I think painting myself is quite hard as result will not get as smooth as usual painter. And the preparation work also need to be very diligent. But you're right cost wise really save up a lot. Hope your paint work will goes smoothly

Thank you, that's very informative. I don't know door need so much paint Yes I'm also repainting the door n grill. For door only glossy paint? I saw online some doors are matte color. Wondering how they achieve that..

I only plan to repaint White after contractor finish all the hacking works for wiring. Currently the unit was already painted once (maybe cheap one as still can see previous apple white color beneath the new white paint) before previous owner pass the key to me. Is it enough to only repaint one coat of paint? Or still need to layer 2times?

Oh that was a main door (widebody fire door) with 1.2m width, painted with 2 coats.

Matte for door I think matte finish paint should be available.. coz they also spray cars matte nowadays.. IIRC it can also be achieved via technique on using spray can (just spray very thinly, with enough thickness to apply coverage of colour but not putting on thickly so it becomes glossy)
Matte for grille looks nice also, when you install grille can ask them to do matte powdercoat.

Since the unit has existing paint that is holding up strong then just one undiluted coat should suffice. Matex easy to use and should work since prev coat is white. If prev coat dark colour like gray or purple then might need KCC, their paint coverage is thicker. The hacked-and-repaired sections should get a couple small tub of sealer (total 2-3L) to paint over so it wont absorb all the paint inside the cement/putty and make it uneven.

This post has been edited by ceo684: Dec 18 2020, 09:14 PM

Hi, my external walls started having this white powdery material about one year, it's a new house, about 2 years+

I plan to repaint, but want to know the root cause and the solution to prevent it from happening again.

Appreciate some help here..

Many dev give what looks like paint but its some sort of white powder (chalky cheapo coating cantonese say fui sui) or never put proper sealer and paint on coz it "looks white can liao". Enough to tahan until DLP warranty period can liao cos its done deal and "not my house syndrome" of the bangla painting it.
Suspect that crappy "white powder" has loosened and took the grey paint off.
This crap should be sanded or brushed out until its no longer chalky (ie basically should remove until bare cement plaster).
Then put on a suitable (in this case something that says OUTDOOR sealer) like the nippon 5400 (or 5100), don't remember which is which but u can check.
After the OUTDOOR sealer is on, put on some OUTDOOR paint like weatherbond or weathershield of your choice. Interior paint don't resist mould that well.

If not, it could be the aftermath of rainwater dripping on it (acid rain, mineral deposits.. think of it as flatter mini stalagmite), if brush off with stiff metal wire or stiff plastic brush it should reveal back the grey paint.

This post has been edited by ceo684: Dec 22 2020, 09:48 PM