No need to hire pros unless the existing surface sucks/is peeling off.. just add 10% water to the paint and then use NEW roller..ace hardware sells the thailand orange ones..very good as they are center-balanced.

bought some "so called heavy duty" roller from hardware shop for rm10 but they sucked big time, as the roller is not centered (not balanced)..very tiring to paint

Better to apply primer/sealer but make sure its OK for outdoor wall, IIRC Nippon got two type (IIRC 5100 and 5400) so whatever brand you buy make sure the sealer is outdoor rated. Because the wall bricks will absorb water so it is better to use sealer to avoid the paint bubbling if the inside of the wall is too wet.

I have a bedroom wall next to bathroom which i suspect has a slow leak in there (not pipe leak but more like sink dripping) where the paint-only without sealer is bubbling

You should get the wire brush attachment to scrape off the old mold first. Paint won't stick if the mold is still there.

Something like this: https://www.lazada.com.my/products/14-wire-...Nze0Al&search=1

In painting well - the prep work is more important than the application of paint.

This post has been edited by ceo684: Nov 14 2020, 12:10 PM

Super Economy range white (and black) that come in RM35/7L matex/maxilite tub is different opacity from the proper custom mix colour paints costing RM90/5L.
Similar for the RM43/7L limited colour super economy colour paints. These are already super diluted and the base material is worlds different even compared to proper indoor paint even.

This post has been edited by ceo684: Nov 14 2020, 02:33 PM

Sealer is the first layer on bare cement plaster as the "innerwear" layer. It won't be suitable for going out, so need to wear "clothes" which is the top coat paint.

So as for your question, don't be a superman (wearing innerwear on top of clothes)

B is the way.

Sealer use for newly completed construction site (after plaster/cement render done) before developer puts a ciplak topcoat on; OR for end user: those problematic area where existing paint bubbling off then need to fix source of water leak first, sand down to plaster [remove all old paint], put sealer, then topcoat.

Are you gonna hack in new socket/AC pipe/AC power here and there? Do those wet work first. Then lastly paint.
Painting is easy if you have the right tools and a properly sized ladder (not 5 feet nonsense) w.r.t wall height.

How good do you need the paint to be? If good paint for whole apartment circa 1k exclude materials maybe about 200 exclude ladder. Labour your ownself.

This sealer you use, also say primer function?
If the sealer also does primer already then you can just put top coat over it.
If the sealer never say primer, then just slap on matex or maxilite (personally prefer matex or KCC coverage) cheapo white paint then only do topcoat.

Uh since theres some leaks, wet area and oily area..
The kitchen one..maybe consider using gloss paint if very oily and unvented
Also if there is joss stick burning this also cause paint to deteriorate.
As for the bathroom.. make sure grout line in the tiles are good else it will still seep water. If the bathroom unventilated, try to put in a ventilation fan. Also consider outdoor paint if its unventilated and smells damp.

This post has been edited by ceo684: Dec 10 2020, 12:58 PM

Some people just use the cheapest available paints
Aircond one if conceal pipe (copper and drain) already ready then no need hack. Otherwise same issue also.. u still gotta repaint that trench.

Wall paint two coat at 90:10 (just add a splash of water) will not be runny, if you put too much water the paint will drip everywhere.
Elcheapo is super matex - entry level RM35/7L fixed 15 colour
Standard custom colour (mix with machine) is around 90-100/5L for Nippon Easywash

Generally, 5L tong will cover two coats undiluted of a long wall (use about 4L+ for one long living room wall of 8m length x 2.4m height), balance can use on smaller wall area with doors and windows.

From experience the legs are stronger than the hands (easier to climb up) and do nicely rather than trying to hold long stick and press into the wall. Small roller easier to use (less splattering). Big roller is used for speed work but splatter more. Prep work like taping up the border area near ceiling and other stuff like door frames using the nippon skyblue colour washi tape is important to achieve nice lines and reduce oops cleanup case.

Decent developer most likely use the cheapest project price maxilite or equivalent.
Some crappy project that I went to, they use "fui sui" that is not even paint / some sort of white powder crap that when you put tape for 30 mins and wanna remove the tape, instead of tape only being removed, whole strip of the fui sui fake paint come off. No need to bother gently removing as its an impossible task.

Elcheapo paint I used:
the 35/7L fixed colour one use for cheap coverage of things like community hall refurbishment CSR project only in apple green.
some no name light yellow to touch up 30 year old house for resale
some cheapo gloss paint in brick red to paint over old roof edge (roof tiles) for 15 bucks/1L.. wrong purpose but kinda works "just to sell"
whole house repaint (sand down to cement to remove 30 year old paint), cheapo no name sealer, then KCC or matex white 20L tubs

As for personal long term use:
To cover over puttied surface use interior sealer to seal the putty, then only put matex over.
To cover over developer paint, just use 2 coats of the Easywash custom colour.
Easy wash can just wipe with damp cloth to remove dust. If cement dust from drilling - better vacuum the wall and use dry cloth only, otherwise grey cement will stick to the wall.
Gloss paint for walls.. ideally used for very well done surface (skim to perfection) or as a last resort in oily kitchen area or for heavy joss stick user (until ceiling all brown condition). Because the gloss really amplify all the imperfection if your wall is not perfectly flat. Hence most people use matte paint for walls.

Small roller give more even coat (in my experience) and cheaper to just throw away the refills. This one doesnt splatter much and technically if the edges taped up nicely can go 99% of the way and the few dots u can brush in or gently use the roller side also can.

Big roller you must buy the correct handle that is centered otherwise you will really have miserable time using it. Also big roller refill cost more. You'll need to spread like 2 rows of newspaper for the floor as it will splatter more.

This post has been edited by ceo684: Dec 11 2020, 03:42 AM

Waste money lah I think..the shopee product
Paint tray is just a tray..nothing special.

Get a reusable handle that is centered nicely. There are some that for god knows why, the T (hand holding part "I") is more like 60/40 which twist the wrist and is gonna be ^&*^&*^&* to use.
The 50-50 balanced one is perfect handle no need branded one, but it must be able to support change of refills.

Then like PaintPals suggest, whole bunch of NEW roller refills will be good.
If you want to fill in the corner or border lines, foam pad brushes will be the atas option, else get those A3 size sponges from hardware shop and cut to smaller pieces also can.

No point buying good paint and all, just to ruin it by a recycled-until-hair-matted almost condemned roller refill.

This post has been edited by ceo684: Dec 13 2020, 01:33 AM

This need proper insulation like Monier Radenshield. It is the IR transmission u need to block against, inside the roof.

Can use a bucket and wipe with damp cloth.
https://www.brewers.co.uk/know-how/problem-.../chalky-surface

If its really chalky all over preferably use any interior sealer (no name or nippon 5100/5400 whichever is cheaper) to bond n hold the surface
then paint over.

Pretty standard around 3.5-4k all inclusive. Materials depends on what you wanna paint (colour or just economy matex white), generally about RM1.2k-1.5k thereabouts for materials and colour paint-e.g. nippon easywash and also depending on how much wall area to be painted). And depends on whether you also repainting the doors (1 door almost 1L gloss generally)

It does save 70% or so (labour cost) since you are the bangla

Anything deeper than mousepad thickness/cigarette thickness should use cement to fix.
Putty doesn't do well for very deep repairs. Its more towards a "dryer skim coat in a tub" equivalent.

Oh that was a main door (widebody fire door) with 1.2m width, painted with 2 coats.

Matte for door I think matte finish paint should be available.. coz they also spray cars matte nowadays.. IIRC it can also be achieved via technique on using spray can (just spray very thinly, with enough thickness to apply coverage of colour but not putting on thickly so it becomes glossy)
Matte for grille looks nice also, when you install grille can ask them to do matte powdercoat.

Since the unit has existing paint that is holding up strong then just one undiluted coat should suffice. Matex easy to use and should work since prev coat is white. If prev coat dark colour like gray or purple then might need KCC, their paint coverage is thicker. The hacked-and-repaired sections should get a couple small tub of sealer (total 2-3L) to paint over so it wont absorb all the paint inside the cement/putty and make it uneven.

This post has been edited by ceo684: Dec 18 2020, 09:14 PM

Many dev give what looks like paint but its some sort of white powder (chalky cheapo coating cantonese say fui sui) or never put proper sealer and paint on coz it "looks white can liao". Enough to tahan until DLP warranty period can liao cos its done deal and "not my house syndrome" of the bangla painting it.
Suspect that crappy "white powder" has loosened and took the grey paint off.
This crap should be sanded or brushed out until its no longer chalky (ie basically should remove until bare cement plaster).
Then put on a suitable (in this case something that says OUTDOOR sealer) like the nippon 5400 (or 5100), don't remember which is which but u can check.
After the OUTDOOR sealer is on, put on some OUTDOOR paint like weatherbond or weathershield of your choice. Interior paint don't resist mould that well.

If not, it could be the aftermath of rainwater dripping on it (acid rain, mineral deposits.. think of it as flatter mini stalagmite), if brush off with stiff metal wire or stiff plastic brush it should reveal back the grey paint.

This post has been edited by ceo684: Dec 22 2020, 09:48 PM

If the surface prep is good + with sealer, it will last long time. If there is still chalky fui sui, it doesn't let anything bond well to it, even the best paints.

If plastic tub would last long.
If metal tin the seal not good due to opening with screwdriver liao. Suggest pour out into plastic bottles. or cover with plastic/shrink wrap before putting lid on.

This post has been edited by ceo684: Dec 30 2020, 11:50 AM

Water based sealer
5100 high quality exterior sealer
5400 medium quality exterior n interior (general purpose)

Solvent based sealer 5170
Ultimate type but this stinks coz not water based. Used for demanding condition walls. I used some cheap no name solvent based sealer (about 30 sth bucks, 5L in 2010) after sanding down to bare cement (40 yr old paint) to repaint for selling house purpose.

IMO interior wall use 5400 is sufficient. As its technically a new house with no serious issue.

Assuming it is an indoor wall and there is no water leak issue (paint not bubbling)
Scrape off will be tough since its old paint. Unless you're stronk like body builder.

I recommend to get a power sander to strip everything off to bare cement plaster.
One problem with old paint is that it sticks so good to the wall when you try to scrape off.
But the old paint rips off the moment you try to roll on new paint.

Once kena new paint, the solvent of the new seeps into the old paint and loosens the old paint from the wall. As paint is also sticky enough (its designed to be sticky to adhere to the wall) it rips off (by combination of chemical - solvent and physical - you rolling the roller) and the entire roller is fully coated (fxxxed up) with old paint. And now the roller is gunked up and you have to clean the whole thing. New paint is costly to be used as paint remover

If wanna try to just roll sealer over existing, IF the same thing happens (gunked up roller) with the sealer, ultimately still need to sand off or strip off the old paint already.

Bosch power sander available at 130-140 bucks. Will create iraq desert storm.

The other alternative is need to buy lots and lots of paint stripper chemical.. but after buying ten tins already can buy the bosch sander machine. This one less dust but toxic fumes issue.

Then use sealer (affordable water based one will be ok if its not severe issue).. if very powdery or a lot of whitish stuff come out by itself then consider using oil/solvent based sealer (much more expensive) as you might have to treat the alkalinity problem as well.

After that can paint over with finish coats.

This post has been edited by ceo684: Jan 28 2021, 05:32 PM

Typically labour only should run anywhere from 1-3k depending on scope of work - excluding paint and materials
walls only? walls + ceiling? walls + ceiling + grille?
any skim coat needed
any rectification e.g. putty needed
any stripping of existing crap paint needed
size of condo.. 800sf apartment will be cheaper than binjai on the taman 3800sf

whether need to do cincai job or to paint properly with sealer 1 coat + 2 coat finish coat or just repaint one coat with basic economy white.

This post has been edited by ceo684: Mar 29 2021, 01:51 AM