So sad. I checked with shoemo over on social media.

They claimed they understand and able to help me but from my conversation with them, I don't think they know even what is Goodyear welted shoes or boots

Was reading this and wondering, why would sneakerheads, who I see are sometimes obsessed with cleaning, shampooing, restoring colour back to their sneakers, even be interested in vegetable tanned leather?

Then I saw this in my mailbox this morning. A very nicely written blog post about veg tan and chrome tan. Although it's written from the perspective of leathercrafters, it may also be useful to people who buy ready made leather items like shoes.

https://www.leathercraftmasterclass.com/pos...-tanned-leather

Personally, I wouldn't want leather dress shoes with uppers made of veg tanned leather.

patch rubber outsole on it if no one can do
I think some handbags repairs shop do it.. some people send Chanel handbags or shoes to repair.. can try ask

most cobbler or factory here don't bother to do.. because they say GYW cost is too high as need to invest GYW machines
probably higher chance if to find those GYW by hand cobblers.. but that's not going to be cheap

This post has been edited by yehlai: Sep 5 2021, 01:17 AM

Well, it depends on what the person is looking for. To briefly summarise the article, chrome tan is more water and scuff resistant but won't be as long lasting due to its softer and looser fibre structure. It doesn't age as well either.

Veg tan is stiffer, needs breaking in due to its denser structure. Hence, it lasts longer and age better with a beautiful patina IF cared for properly.

Simply put, one needs less care, may not age as gracefully or last as long. Another may last a lifetime, if not many when one knows how to take care of it.

There are exceptions of course with Chromexcel leathers and many veg tan leathers are finished nowadays to increase its durability against the elements.

Finally, there is no right or wrong whichever you choose as long as it's an informed decision. Here is a photo of my 36 year old vintage Florsheims still looking as good as new. Cheers!

Yes of course, an informed decision needs to be made.

I'm just perplexed by the author's assertion that veg tan is automatically better. Especially considering his target audience's desire to keep things looking clean and new.

I like both and know they each have their uses. Some of the leathers I have in my stash right now:

T-B. Annonay calf. Horween Chromexcel. Walpier Buttero. Haas Barenia.

Yeah I am aware it is not going to be cheap.

One of the reasons for GYW shoes is that it is possible to resole and not to ditch away those shoes with nice patina.

Whats more important is that high quality leather shoes / boots that has molded to your feet nicely already. hahaha

Wonder if our neighbouring country, Singapore has cobblers that fixes GYW shoes...

hey shoes sifus,

been a sneaker head and wanting to get some (real) shoes to mix in my wardrobe.

any recommendation for styles that can be for formal and casual? or should i have separate shoes?

Got this recently from Meermin.

Handwelted! Puts us Goodyear welted peasants to shame.

Does anyone know any good cobbler in KL/PJ who can do resole for Onitsuka tiger?
Love the pig skin lining on the Onitsuka tiger that I cannot bear to see them in bin

Dear all sifus, I wish to purchase my first ever Goodyear welted shoe from https://www.skolyx.se/en/. Wish to ask, is it all the Goodyear welted shoe is 1 size smaller than my normal sneaker size?

I am wearing Nike UK10 now, mean I should get UK9 for Goodyear welted shoe?

It's not straightforward I'm afraid. I don't recommend buying online for the first pair. If no choice, be ready to exchange if necessary e.g. don't wear it outside until you are sure you are going to keep it.

Noted Sifu, will look for retail shoe in Malaysia to try my first pair of goodyear welted shoe. Thanks for the info. 😊

Hi everyone, I just got my first ever pair of real dress shoes, a pair of Cheaney Old Classic Derbys in black calf leather.

I have a few questions:

1. There are a few stray threads, one at the heel (1st image) and another near the tongue of one of the shoes. Is this normal? Am I expecting too much at this price point? And do I burn the thread or cut it?

2. Are you guys very particular about staining the inside of your dress shoes? As you can see from the 2nd image below, I've stained the inside of my shoe while applying coloured shoe cream.

3. There's a lot of creases on the side of my shoes around the side (image 3), is this normal or is it a sign that my shoes are too tight?

Please ignore the atrocious angles and quality of my photos, I have to work on my photography skills lol.

Glad to have found this group, I've already read through tons of old replies and have learned a lot. I'm looking to get my first pair of dress boots next and probably another pair of shoes, preferably plain toe oxfords.

1. Depends, did you buy seconds for a discount? Seconds normally failed some QC.

2. Not a big deal IMO. Has never happened to me though. What are you using? I use an old t-shirt. Just be careful not to get any on your fingers and you shouldn't stain anything.

3. Normal. If anything, it is a sign that the shoe is too loose around the topline. You may also notice bowing when you walk. That is also normal. Bowing while standing still is NOT normal. Embrace the creases. The only proper leather shoes that do not crease are those that have never been worn. Either that or you walk like a penguin.

1. I bought it brand new at full price. There aren't any serious structural defects or any flaws. Just 2 short threads jutting out. Just wondering whether that's OK at this mid price point of Rm1.5k. Should I cut it or burn it away?

2. I applied black shoe cream on the tongue with an old handkerchief and accidentally dabbed some on the inside. Also, when the tongue rubs against the inside some of it transfers to it when wearing the shoes. Is there any way to remove or lighten the stains?

3. I guess the fit is fine. I'm just too paranoid with wondering whether I should've went half a size up or down.😅

This post has been edited by kvwong2014: Nov 3 2021, 07:11 PM

Gentlemen, 2 eyelet Derby shoes, yay or nay?

I am in my early 20s and would like to know whether this style has a modern aesthetic and whether it is suitable for younger gentlemen? Should I have gone for 3, 4 or 5 eyelet shoes instead?

Feel free to comment.

Cheers.

I would not have accepted this pair at full price, even though this range of Cheaney is considered just a bit higher than entry-level (both quality and price wise). Something as visible as that is not acceptable to me. Easily fixed, but I shouldn't have to do it myself.

Snip it as close as you can to the leather. Whatever is left, dab it with PVA glue (white glue). Use a needle to poke it in to an appropriate stitch hole. PVA glue dries clear.

Classic styles from English makers are just that, classics. You can't really go wrong with them. So is it modern? Definitely not. That's not a bad thing though.

For an early 20s, you will be wearing something better than 99.9% of your peers.

Hi, this is my new account.

You're right, even though its slightly above entry-level, these are still handmade shoes that have most likely been subjected to very close inspection by human eyes and handled by craftsmen throughout the entire manufacturing process, they should've seen these fray ends. Then again, I've heard that Allen Edmonds shoes have had some issues with QC as well, namely the welt and stitching. So I guess my case isn't that rare.

Thanks for the detailed instructions on how to deal with the loose threads.

In terms of style, I've just asked my peers about it and nearly all of them love the 2 eyelet design, its minimalistic while still carrying that classic aesthetic. Best of both worlds I guess.

Ah, from your other thread you are a fellow leathercrafter. So in your case the appropriate tool is a scratch awl instead of a needle.