QUOTE(Are_keem @ Jul 28 2009, 08:33 PM)
double signal is illegal to use for fun or no emergency 
but running light should be ok anytime especially during rain or night
anyway guys, i've found this.
IIANM the speed is only a theory. so anybody wanna explain bout dat? sir alexei?
I'm thinking there should be a relay or flasher sold outside suitable for this mod, but need to re-wire a bit on the bike.but running light should be ok anytime especially during rain or night
anyway guys, i've found this.
IIANM the speed is only a theory. so anybody wanna explain bout dat? sir alexei?
Re-wiring means change the wiring at the left hand switch to connect to the signal lights. When the switch at normal position, all lights on. If switch on left signal, activate left flasher, and likewise for right side. Doing it right also need to source some electrical connectors. I haven't know where to find this kind of socket. The mechanic way of doing this would be to stick the wire into the socket and black tape everything... Ugly and pray for no short circuit someday.
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Since someone called me 'sir', I have to buka my textbook already... haha.
For the speedcalc, it's a calculator.
Engine crank + transmission + final drive (sproket ratio) and wheel size is the essence here. Since the parts here are all connected, no rocket science.
Example, 5000 rotation on the engine will move the wheel 200 times.
200 x tyre circumference you get the distance. Tada!!!
Compared to a boat engine, the maths is much simpler, because for 5000 rotation on the engine, you cannot exactly measure how far the boat moved... Itu panggil 'fluid dynamics'.
So, fishing, anyone?
***Additional talking, if you're not interested can skip. If I'm wrong, feel free to comment. This is a forum afterall.***
The difficult part of the math is the dynamic of the engine output: torque and HP.
Torque is how much 'pull' the engine can generate = pickup.
HP is max output to maintain that RPM, while all negating factors eats up the torque = topspeed.
*Negating forces = the reduced amount of air-fuel mixture at high RPM, friction, payload etc etc.
This means, you need to dyno an engine to get torque and HP, measure the weight of the rider+bike+nasi ayam tapau, to calculate the best combination of gearing suited for riding style and road condition.\
In short, highway bigger final drive ratio (17:44); city driving use smaller (16:49). Example quoted is the extreme for TZM lah.
Theoratically, you can use bigger carb, or even also install turbo to maintain or increase the amount of air-fuel mixture at high RPM, so that engine can reach unlimited RPM... until it starts to meltdown. Haha...
*There are people dedicated to break the 300MPH barrier, by installing turbo on 600cc bikes like the CBR-RRs.
Points to ponder:
1. When you read vehicle specs, why max torque is always before max HP?
2. How true is the saying: Torque wins races, HP sells cars.
3. How does a smaller cc engine out perform a bigger cc, during jump start and acceration?
4. How to balance between accel and topspeed?
5. Should I consider sprocket ratio when I change tyre size?
6. Why can we maintain at a certain speed just by controlling the accelerator leh?
7. What's the deal with high speed bearing, lightened racing parts, and all the other modifications?
***End***
Jul 28 2009, 10:22 PM

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