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Yamaha T135
Malaysian Bikers Community MBC)

LYN 135LC Club V1


Our Proud Ride!!


1. Spayz's ride :

2. xtreme_paranoid's ride :

3. charge-n-go's ride :

4. Are_keem's ride :

5. scoffer's ride :

6. kinwei3250's ride :

7. LilCroSs's ride :

8. samba18's ride :


Whose name is not in the list, kindly PM me your model or just post in the thread.
Common guys, let show them the power of liquid cooling

This post has been edited by Are_keem: Jul 28 2009, 07:02 PM

Tips to Improve Engine Performance

Minor mod (increase acceleration)
1. Remove air filter. (Penang people can find me, FOC)
2. Reset carburetor air-fuel setting. (Penang people can find me, FOC)
3. Set valve tapette to 10 IN and 15 OUT. - RM30 labour charge @ New Bee Hock motor, Penang.
4. Change to 15-40 with 415 chain. - RM100

Major mod
coming soon...


Tips to Improve Handling Performance
coming soon...


Sprocket Combination (Stock CDI)

acceleration + = increase by xx%
acceleration - = decrease by xx%

15-35 - 1st : 48kph, 2nd : 90kph, 3rd : 130kph, 4th : 180kph; acceleration - 10.0%
15-36 - 1st : 46kph, 2nd : 86kph, 3rd : 125kph, 4th : 175kph; acceleration - 7.8%
15-37 - 1st : 44kph, 2nd : 83kph, 3rd : 122kph, 4th : 169kph; acceleration - 5.1%
15-38 - 1st : 43kph, 2nd : 80kph, 3rd : 118kph, 4th : 160kph; acceleration - 2.6%

15-39 - 1st : 42kph, 2nd : 78kph, 3rd : 115kph, 4th : 155kph; acceleration no change

15-40 - 1st : 41kph, 2nd : 75kph, 3rd : 111kph, 4th : 151kph; acceleration + 2.6%
15-41 - 1st : 40kph, 2nd : 73kph, 3rd : 108kph, 4th : 148kph; acceleration + 5.1%
15-42 - 1st : 39kph, 2nd : 71kph, 3rd : 105kph, 4th : 144kph; acceleration + 7.8%
15-43 - 1st : 38kph, 2nd : 69kph, 3rd : 102kph, 4th : 140kph; acceleration + 10.0%

After changing racing CDI >> top speed for 4th gear can add about 10 - 20kph.

*Note* The above data is an estimation of potential top speed for each gear, and may vary from bike to bike.


Carburetor General Tuning Guideline:

A. Change the idle air-fuel mixture setting 1st.
B. If still not satisfied, change the needle position.
C. If none of the needle position is good, change the jettings.


A. Idle air-fuel mixture settings
1. Air screw set at about 2.5 turns for stock airflow. Modified exhaust + air filterless can use 2 turns.
2. Idle rpm increase a little more than normal.

B. Needle setting
1. There are 3 ticks on the needle jet.
2. The lowest tick will give us good FC, as it limits more petrol to flow from mainjet @ half throttle
3. The highest tick will give us bad FC, as it let more petrol flows from mainjet @ half throttle.

However, highest tick does not mean best acceleration. If too much petrol flows into the venturi, the mixture will become too rich. This will decrease the power at high rpm. So, try different needle clip position and feel which one has the best results.

C. Jet size setting
1. Change mainjet to #107.5 (stock #105)
2. Change pilotjet to #22.5 (stock #20). If there is no performance increase, then stick back to #20.
3. Change mainjet to #110 + pilotjet #22.5. <-- this should be a good pair.

Anything more than #110 mainjet will make the engine feels heavy, bcoz the mixture becomes too rich.


Disc Brake Tuning Meteorology

The theory covers the relationship between the total areas of the brake pots (Note, its area not count), brake pads, masterpump, the rigidity of the brake hose and the property of the brake pads. The point of improvement is to look for the limit of the system and upgrade it.

1. Single pot is less prone to uneven brake force compared to multiple pots when in case one of the pot jams.

2. Changing the brake rotor is a start. But if you do not see improvements, that means rotor is not the limitation, and you need to change other things to do a stopee (Nose brake).

3. Change brake hose to steel braided, so it is less likely to expand and eat up the brake budget. Try this, wrap ur hands around standard brake hose, and press the brake you will feel it expand. Anymore you press also won't increase braking performance.

4. Change to DOT5 brake oil (normal 1 can, but easily overheat. I go hill run for >1 hr, DOT5 is mandatory)

5. Change brake pads, I use Ferodo imported by Racing Boy. Ask for original ones, one set front about RM30~40. You can see more copper strands on the pads. Other good pads use metal strands so u can see silverly metal strands.

6. Must stiffen front fork absorber, and add a stabilizer bar. Use 15W-20 fork oil, make it about 25% stiffer than stock. 20W-50 fork oil is too stiff bcoz (the oil is too not lean enuf), the bound and rebound SUX, I feel like riding on a horse. The traction sux too, bcoz front tyre can hardly grip on the road when going through uneven road (esp penang road).

7. Use ABS device (about RM100) <-- optional

** many thanks to bro charge-n-go and bro alexei for the useful tips
stay tune for more tips

p/s : if anybody wanna share their modding tips too, you can PM me or just post in the thread, and I will update this post

This post has been edited by Are_keem: Jun 2 2009, 03:47 PM

hahaha.. your name already up there

guys, I've updated the list above.
if there's other left, kindly post here or just PM me

1st post updated

polis also normal human like us mah,
for sure wanna mod his bike too
ask him to join you guys during TT session,
so incase there's roadblock you can make it through without any problems

haha.. if got 'kaki' then for sure no need to scare when rempit-ing

no problem dude, will update my post later.
if the article is fully completed, then tell me yea

if your sprocket set is still in standard condition, then it should be 15-39 with 428 chain.
and if you change rear sprocket anything above 39, then top speed will be affected.
the bigger the rear sprocket, then greater the acceleration but top speed will be decreased

rich dude spotted
my friend who always travel on bike (his bike was bought at Nov. 07),
the odometer already near 40k km after 1 and a half years.. really crazy guy
he said he change the EO each 1500km. but the engine still smooth,
due to good maintenance I think.

but I always change the EO and OF every 2000 or 3000km,
depends on which brand the EO is

me only use Motul H-Tec 100 full syn for 3000km only. cannot tahan the knocking sound of the engine
I think it's not suitable for my machine. now using Selenia Linx 15W-50, just change it last week. so far so good

I bought the H-Tec for rm42. but after using it for 2000kms, the result sucks!
never try any other Motul EO, except those H-Tec 100 and 3100 Semi Syn (well, that time pokai loh.. got no money to buy expensive EO )

lol.. hahahaha..
next time you should invite one of them to join you guys on the next TT,
and then invite him to test his bike on the corners too

charge, do you know where I can get ES original calipers?
those racing boy calipers looks like not reliable only

lol.. so most of you are in the same school?

so advance la your school bizzy. mine only got 3-4 LCs, couple of 125Zs and RXZs. last time got student ride his dad's Jaguh to school

no problem to fit in any headlamp (R1 too ) if you know the right place and person to do the mod

hahaha... long time no see you bro
how's your bike now?

how much is it bro?
thinking to get a set for auxiliary lights.
if its bright enough, maybe I didn't need to light up the headlamp on the morning

if ayam brand, seems expensive la bro

some said that full synthetic EO can be used up to 5k km, but then our bike will felt sluggish. as charge and the others said, 3000km is the best spot to change the EO incase you're using full syn one. me also change the EO every 3000km

my friend's ride was installed with rear disc brake.

6-spoke 125ZR rims nowadays was a hot item, sometime got people who willing to buy it for rm600 just for the rims.
that amount can get complete rear nissin disc set + rims, if rear rims only than it will costs around rm400-450.

some said that it is not recommended to convert rear drum brake to disc,
because it would be dangerous during rain (too much grip, rear wheel will got locked and easy to lose control).
maybe for styling purposes only, but I much prefer drum brake than disc

oh yes, he kena saman by police last week because of the rear disc.
luckily rm70 only, if not the bike will kena sita (suspend).