LC got TPS?

tapetta = Carburator or tapet?

what about Nuovo LC? Is this the same forum?

What about brakes, original setup better or RB bigger disc better? Any problems with the TrafixPulis?

Agree with 'whysomany', 4-stroke bikes need warm up esp since you all use multigrade EO. Recommended RPM for warm up is 5k below for 1~2km.

This post has been edited by alexei: May 20 2009, 04:20 PM

Hi LC fans,
Any of you using the sports clutch version? I was told the clutch plates are not reliable on this bike. Among other things, the stock parts of this bike isn't all that reliable.

Is there a thread to mention the ups and downs of 135LC?

I've trusted Yamaha all this while and I intend to keep it.
I'm looking into owning a 4-stroke which is why I'm tuned to this post.

My next bet would be the Suzuki Belang-R (Met a guy who traded in his LC for this one yesterday.)

Fuel additives? Spend RM10 to treat RM100 fuel, save fuel by 2%... you do the maths la... gives placebo effect. Better spend more on V-power.

Octane booster - unless your engine is turbo charged, it's useless. It's to tackle knocking. Knocking happens when the air-fuel mixture is too lean or under high boosted compression. Since most of us use bigger carb jets than recommended, and do not have turbo add-on, it's pointless.

Stromberg - It's a gapping device to resucitates a plug when fouling occurs. If you put Stromberg near to motorbike metal chassis, the spark would 'escape' to the chassis ground giving less power and a tingling sensation to the rider. Plug fouling happen if spark plug is too cold. Example, you replace plug from recommended NGK-7 to NGK-8.

Carb cleaner/ Injector cleaner - No opinion, I won't use it on my bike.

I would rather get those high Gaussian magnet example from harddisk head controllers and attach to the fuel line. This is a better bet to better aerate the fuel for better combustion. Or, Iridium tipped spark plugs.

Check your spark plug, it tells how well your engine efficiency is...

bizzy, sorry over-reacted.
Power booster... let me find out more.

My guess is a device (likely capacitor) connected to stabilize voltage - affects CDI and ignition coil performance. I may be wrong.

I think for club logo design, simple with clean lines would be better. Most of LC users here custom the bike look already. If the logo too canggih, may not suit every bike spray design... Maybe agree with the wording first?

Example: LYN_135LC with a simple outline of something that represents the LC bike. Easy to make the sticker also.

I'm saying this becoz in Penang, there's a established mechanic who offer a sticker with Guan and a motor symbol. Any bike maintain by this guy is tiptop one.

This post has been edited by alexei: May 22 2009, 04:27 PM

The "tik tik" sound I think it's coming from metal expansion due to heating, pretty normal on 4-stroke bikes since the exhaust are very well dry.

Hella horns: I only install one side of it on my bike...

SKF. World premier leading bearing manufacturer.

I use OEM Japanese bearings.
I am not familiar with this brand yet... maybe later.

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Added on May 26, 2009, 2:11 pmFor running in, it's the combination of engine RPM and speed you need to watch.

First 500, try to keep below 3k and top speed at 80km - service EO&OF. Look for any weird color in waste EO (metal residue, water etc), listen engine sound if valve got any knocking sound. If got, ask for slight service to check gap.

Next 500, keep below 5k RPM. Same service as above.

1000 onwards... ride it.

For modifications, change one thing at a time and make necessary tuning along the way.

This post has been edited by alexei: May 26 2009, 02:11 PM

Use Motul.

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Added on May 26, 2009, 2:54 pmUse O-ring chain. Can spray chain lube and last a long time.
Warning - O-ring chain heavier than normal chain, may reduce topspeed if not jaga properly.

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Added on May 26, 2009, 2:57 pmMatte black with reflective ring?
Rossi yellow?
Dunhill red metallic?

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Added on May 26, 2009, 3:06 pmyo, i thought LC already 2-pot caliper? Any reason you wanna change?
Sometimes caliper and pump comes in a set... later you change already not suitable, become not eat...

This post has been edited by alexei: May 26 2009, 03:06 PM

I think consider upgrading tyre first?
For now, can the braking overpower the tyre grip?
If yes, I'm thinking maybe change the tyre first... else, can consider upgrade brakes la.

Anyway, I am sokong ppl upgrading brakes... My fren recently kena one van suddenly switch lane in front, and he break the bumper. *sweat

what's the EO grade? 20W-50?

From what I know, if use higher number, it's thicker so less noise but engine heavier. More protection.

If use 15W-40 or less... the oil is thinner, hence more noise and less protection.
Follow manufacturer's recommended EO grade. Any thinner is at your own risk.

If you can spend more on Ester multigrade like that motul, the oil quality will last longer. This is noticeable at oil change where the thickness remains. Lousy oil will become thin and tends to trap air bubbles making it white-ish.

I sayang my bike, and I don't have race sponsor, so use 20W-50.

A good pipe is a straight pipe, stainless, and easily serviceable.
Those that welded dead one cannot be serviced with new glass wool one. Noise level can be managed with glass wool, too.

Potong pipe... bore out the silencer section and modify with screw holes once and for all. This is similar to 2stroke bike la...

Instead of exhaust sound, u listen engine sound while riding.... whizzz...

What's with whysomany's LC? Tell me tell me... I thought school normally ban 2-strok bikes?

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Added on May 28, 2009, 5:51 pmI agree... BM sells things cheaper, question is how to bring back.
I hope you guys keep all your original parts and not leave it to the shops.

Original parts worth more than accesories over time.

This post has been edited by alexei: May 28 2009, 05:51 PM

Kudos!!! Respek.

This post has been edited by alexei: May 29 2009, 10:52 AM

whysomany: Lagenda vs LC that bad meh?

Are_keem: What is the std carb size for LC, 24mm?
Side topic: I reduce my jet size for my TZM to burn lean, because std jet too rich make my plug black...

Side topic: Just wondering, anyone wanna jalan-jalan with my old 90ies 2-strok bikes? Me and friends got plan to go KL for upcoming Sepang GT.
Yesterday I went to Autocity see Canon fair... quite cheap. 1000D for 2k, and some 50% discount for Fuji S100 and S1500.

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Added on May 29, 2009, 5:08 pmThis is what I know about engine mods.
1: Change the hardware - Block, piston, bearing, piston ring, gasket, valve, valve-spring, racing plug, plug cable, crankshaft etc. If you consider gearing, change it in phase 2. Upgrade the brakes and suspension. This is a full component change without disturbing the performance of the engine, only the reliability to handle racing tune later.

2. Ride the bike and see if the performance is as good as stock, or slightly better. Run-in the parts like a new engine, 500-1000 km.

3. Change the setting things CDI, and carburator tuning. This is the difficult part where 'change one thing at a time' is the basic principle. Find a balance between pick-up and topspeed, until you get it right.

This post has been edited by alexei: May 29 2009, 05:08 PM

Ok. I guess that's what makes it fuel economy. Good upgrade option, but converting from 22mm to 24~28mm would be tricky. Start with same size Pilot jet, main jet and main needle, and see if the additional bigger throttle body will give any advantage to topspeed and torque (pickup). After test drive, check the plug, like i've always said...

Anyone trying this, let us know. I have more to speak on this.

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Added on May 31, 2009, 11:43 amBro, compare engine sound to other LC how?
How is it annoying? I hope nothing is bad, is the engine covered under some kind of warranty?
What's wrong with monosyiok? Too hard, soft? change the preload then?
Correcto, complete 500km change EO, check the oil condition.

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Added on May 31, 2009, 12:04 pmFrom fizik law, it is correct bigger radius, given the same applied force, it has bigger rotational friction. (I'm a physics degree grad, teacher, and tuition teacher). Haha.

The theory covers the relationship between the total areas of the brake pots (Note, its area not count), brake pads, masterpump, the rigidity of the brake hose and the property of the brake pads. The point of improvement is to look for the limit of the system and upgrade it.

Side note: Single pot is less prone to uneven brake force compared to multiple pots when in case one of the pot jams. My friend tyre tends to jam in wet because of this he crash in rain one time... mistakenly thought was the tire until sevice brakepump).

Changing the brake rotor is a start. But if you do not see improvements, that means rotor is not the limitation, and you need to change other things to do a stopee (Nose brake).

Change brake hose to steel braided, so it is less likely to expand and eat up the brake budget. Try this, wrap ur hands around standard brake hose, and press the brake you will feel it expand. Anymore you press also won't increase braking performance liao.

Change brake pads, I use Ferodo imported by Racing Boy. Ask for original ones, one set front about RM30~40. You can see more copper strands on the pads. Other good pads use metal strands so u can see silverly metal strands.

Other things, like someone said earlier is to have a stiffer suspension (so that tyre won't bounce like basketball when you hardbrake); and better tyres, of course.

Side note, race car change brake pumps, brake hoses, ventilated cross drilled rotor, calipers etc etc. They DO have bigger rotors. It's very similar and we're all limited by the size of our wheels...

This post has been edited by alexei: May 31 2009, 12:04 PM

Cool down... let me shower some imho first.

With that budget, I'd spend on a 150cc 2-stroke, service with standard parts, and ride happy at 200kmh... with additional money left for fuel. I have a TZM.

If you really wanna do project bike mod, first you gotta have an accurate speedometer. LC135 is known to have inaccurate ones. Then, there's lots to read about how stuff works, firing angle, timing, air-fuel mixture, carburation etc etc. All this to figure out which upgrade gives more bang per buck.

Looks like you can start with CDI. I don't know much about racing CDI options.
But I do know this, CDI changes the firing timing at every RPM. Sometimes capalang CDI is too extreme - fire too early. This means noisy engine and reduced engine reliability and not-so-smooth riding experience.

The best bet if you use Racing CDI, use higher grade fuel to protect the engine.

Good luck, I'm sure the forum here can advice a lot also. Read up.

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Added on May 31, 2009, 12:26 pmYeah, VS... it helps for others of you here who installs double horns (Hella, BM, Nautilus etc).
VS = Voltage Stabiliser, right?

How much is a ZAPTOR VS?

I'm thinking of a custom build 25v1F with relay for my bike. (1F = 1million uF)
Maybe throw in a voltmeter as well.
Once I turn on bike, the relay connects the cap to the battery.
The cap itself is about RM150~300, relay is RM8.


This post has been edited by alexei: May 31 2009, 12:26 PM

Lucky you... I believe JPJ/traffic ppl are more reasonable these days, they wanna catch problematic riders more than mini-offensive ppl. Again-loh, ride safe, make sure everything is in working order.

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Added on June 1, 2009, 10:23 amThanks Charge.

Agree on DOT5. I use Honeywell DOT5, RM25 for 1Litre. Can get from car shop. Recommend any racing brand.
There's also DOT5.1 by Motul RBF. NEVER DOT3... DOT4 will wear out faster.

I agree on the ABS also, don't use it if don't know how it works. Braking is no joke. I know Honda used to provide free ABS add-on to their bikes last time, a small metal box before the brake calipers. I think it has a compressible valve inside... if this is the case, I won't recommend it.

Anyone would sponsor one for me to do a destructive inspection???

For ABS, I don't think CDI mod needed. No hardwire observed.

Good braking should not cause bikes to dip forward... only forward G-force. But sadly we don't get BMW grade suspensions. Checkout BMW R1200GS.

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Added on June 1, 2009, 10:25 amCan provide more details? YSS oil shock or air shock? RM160?
What spec tyre? Just to share price among member if got kangtou...

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Added on June 1, 2009, 10:37 amRound slides are for normal carbs, or for racing, it would have powerjets.
Flat slides gives better throttle respond, and are more used in racing carbs.

Powerjet is an additional fuel jet at full throttle opening located at the 12 o'clock opening of the intake port. On normal carbs, these powerjet inlet/outlet are sealed with copper balls (I'm sure some of you have been wondering what are those for), and you'll notice the 12 o'clock hole not in use.

If you wanna mod this, remove all one of the copper balls using fine drill, and connect lower outlet (drain hose) to the top outlet using fuel hose. Refer to below link for some info.

Do this at your own risk, or buy a cheap carb to play with first.

http://www.naughtyboymotorracing.com/mytzrc.html

This post has been edited by alexei: Jun 1 2009, 10:37 AM

Where? KL? Penang?

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Added on June 1, 2009, 4:32 pmWah, custom full exhaust system, need full custom bodykit too.

This post has been edited by alexei: Jun 1 2009, 04:32 PM