hi i have a kancil 850ex(m).recently when the car run up to 80km/h.the r.p.m around 3.5k will drop under 3k no matter how hard i press the throttle.and it keeps going down.it's like sudden lost of power.any sifu know what's wrong with my car?

what type of engine u use ??

I'm using stock JB-JL Auto bro.

Anyone know how to remove the meter clusters? The light at my fuel blinks when I hit a bump - something must be loose in there

do you mean removing the whole meter out? all i know is you have to remove the inner part of the 'shade' which covering the meter.. there are 2 screws under the 'shade'..

Yeah, the whole entire meter. The connection is probably loose so I want to get it out to check the wiring. As for the wires from the car to the meter, do they use removable plugs?

I just took out mine, fuel meter works intermittently. Under the shade, two short screws, then pull out the shade. Don't force as there are two clips at the bottom. Then you can see 3 screws, take it out also. There will be two sets of wiring sockets and the meter cable. The meter cable is a bit tricky. Press the plastic holding clamp and pull out.

The lights for the meter is like those fairy lights type. Really chokia meter, if you ask me.

lol fairy lights? and what is chokia

From how the lights shine thru the meters I doubt there's much quality to be had in the first place

Chokia means laoyah larr. The bulbs are attached to a socket which is inserted into the meter rear panel. Dunno can change colour or not.

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Added on May 18, 2011, 4:45 pmUsually I see guys pumping their petrol full tank they really fill it up. Some even shake the car to fill more. When the pump auto stops, just stop or go to the nearest ringgit should be enough. If you look into the hole, there is a small outlet pipe which I think is a release if vapours gets too compressed inside the tank. Kancil's is 32 litre tank only. If you pump too full, when cornering the fuel might flow up to the opening and flow out. That is where the smell comes from. I smelled it twice too. So now I don't pump too full.

This post has been edited by etigge: May 18 2011, 04:45 PM

lol lauyah

I haven't seen it before, but I read that they use those 'condoms' to give the bulbs the colour. The dashboard does this, but not too sure about the meters.

Anyway you changed yours recently? Swapped to L2 meter?

yups its a condom wrapping the bulb.. i was once wanted to change the bulb to white LED, looks cool but scare JPJ summon, so ended up install back the whole meter.. haha

If so, what's the original LED color then?

its actually not a LED.. my Kancil is a year 95 first batch.. its a small little bulb just like the size of a LED.. and LED is not as bright as nowadays during the old age of 1995.. >< therefore LED is not widely use.. its a small yellow little bulb wrap with green condom..

I was switching the bulbs on the speedometer when the contacts for the T10s on the thin PCB tore off, and I accidentally shorted something. There was a burning smell with a bit of smoke and now, the entire speedometer lighting does not work - the rest of the bulbs (handbrakes, door ajar, tachometer) work fine.

Any ideas on what needs to be done? The meters seem to work fine, except for the speedometer bulb lights. Is there a fuse in there which I have to replace?

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Added on May 21, 2011, 3:24 amFrom the outside it looks like the circuit board got fried, but that could be my only guess.


A burned trace. It smelt of smoke and charring, so I'm assuming the smoke was from here.


The contact which caused the short. I was fidgeting at the back of the dashboard, feeling around for the bulb sockets when the short happened.


Now if I could find a conductive pen or a replacement PCB, this would be an easy fix but I can't determine whether it is the PCB or a component inside the meter that got smoked as well

This post has been edited by colinwong89: May 21 2011, 03:24 AM

looks like ur PCB circuit got fried there and the traces/leads got melted off. I think ur fuse is still good though.

If u are good at soldering you need to solder wires to the 2 trace leads that are lifted off the board to the bulb manually. But you need to be careful and check for short circuit before you install back into the dashboard n its best to test outside using 12v power supply first. Also u need check the traces that are burned to see they are still connected.

Its quite a lot of work so maybe u can ask a fren who is good in electrical / electronics to help or u can get a halfcut L2s meter and save urself the headache.

Also a word of advice for u - always disconnect your battery first before doing any electrical / installation work in your car. The thing is like 20+ amps and u should be thankful nothing happen to u. haha!

good luck in ur mods....

you can do a little soldering with some wires.. seems like its only the lighting circuit which is spoilt.. you have a try.. worse come to worse is to replace the whole board which i assume you can find 2nd hand one..

The damage doesn't look too major to me, so I'll try bridging the burnt trace together. The only problem is that I'm not too sure on how to do the bulb connector trace - it has to sit flush with the PCB so the bulbs can fit inside. I'll think of a way.

Thanks for the help guys

u can try and solder wires from the PCB board direct to the bulb itself. i think there is some exposed bulb wire at the bulb holder. If not u may need to mod the thing by making an opening to solder to the bulb.

I didn't have the proper soldering tools, and soldering a wire to a flexi-PCB without the right stuff would probably screw it up further.

So I cleaned the burned trace with isoprophyl alcohol, got a few pieces of electric motor brushes from my old Tamiya parts (those who played the Mini 4WD series would have a crapload of miniature stuff inside a toolbox) and taped off the other traces to prevent more shorts. Then it was a matter of taping the strip onto the exposed trace. It had quite a bit of resistance according to the multimeter, but after mating it properly with a back of a pen the resistance went off

The bulb connectors were slightly harder. I had to half fold a strip (so it creates a V-shaped piece), wrapped the ripped traces on one end and securely taped it down at the contact point. Repeated on the other side, re-measured the resistance, refitted it in into the car and my lights are back up

No pics around, I was rushing to test it out but all I can say it looks pretty Mcgyvered lol. I'm not sure duct tape would last long under the hot weather, but since it's not directly under the sun it should be no matter.

This post has been edited by colinwong89: May 22 2011, 01:09 PM

good to hear you DIY was successful.