I just took out mine, fuel meter works intermittently. Under the shade, two short screws, then pull out the shade. Don't force as there are two clips at the bottom. Then you can see 3 screws, take it out also. There will be two sets of wiring sockets and the meter cable. The meter cable is a bit tricky. Press the plastic holding clamp and pull out.

The lights for the meter is like those fairy lights type. Really chokia meter, if you ask me.

Chokia means laoyah larr. The bulbs are attached to a socket which is inserted into the meter rear panel. Dunno can change colour or not.

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Added on May 18, 2011, 4:45 pmUsually I see guys pumping their petrol full tank they really fill it up. Some even shake the car to fill more. When the pump auto stops, just stop or go to the nearest ringgit should be enough. If you look into the hole, there is a small outlet pipe which I think is a release if vapours gets too compressed inside the tank. Kancil's is 32 litre tank only. If you pump too full, when cornering the fuel might flow up to the opening and flow out. That is where the smell comes from. I smelled it twice too. So now I don't pump too full.

This post has been edited by etigge: May 18 2011, 04:45 PM

Orignal parts is OK but labour, isn't it a bit steep? They don't pluck the engine out actually, they just use crocodile jacks to push it from below so it is just enough to change the particular mounting they are working on and then the next one and so on.

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Added on May 29, 2011, 6:12 pmMy driver side power window was jammed and refused to shut. There was a whirring sound meaning the motor is OK so I took out the whole assembly. The edges are sharp and I bruised myself on the edges just to unscrew a nut inside. I found out that the motor is jammed shut, meaning it is not repairable. I was not satisfied because it is still a working motor. I pry it carefully and found out that there was a C-clip holding the whole rotating assembly which turns the cog for the assembly. The C-clip came out and I installed it back and close back the cover and used plier to jam back the cover.

It's working now but not so smoothly but I want to shut off the auto close or open function. This function is only on the driver side but I want it to work like the passenger side. I off means it stop and press only it move. Anybody here knows where the relay or circuit is to disable this auto function. I don't like it anyway. Anyone?

This post has been edited by etigge: May 29 2011, 06:12 PM

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Added on June 7, 2011, 12:16 pmActually it is safer to change the timing belt if you just took over the car or the previous owner can tell you when they changed. A normal timing belt needs to changed after every 80,000 kms. although some belts states 100,000 kms.
The other day, I asked the foreman to check if it still can last, he opened up the cover and test if there are any slack in the belt. Loose or slacking means used quite some time and mine was still tight. Although not a really sure way but it is the only way until I change it in a few months.

This post has been edited by etigge: Jun 7 2011, 12:16 PM

I tell you what happens when a timing belt snaps. I was driving to Muar in my former 320. Those days all BMWs are 6 cylinders. After exiting Muar, suddenly the engine just shuts down and everything just went quiet like an alien has sucked the power out. I cranked the engine but nothing happened.

My mistake was trying to push start the car. When you push start it, you turn the crank which pushes the conrod and pistons up and down. But because the timing belt has snapped the cam shaft is not turning and the valves are stuck. When the pistons comes up, they start banging on the valves and breaks some and bent some and it also punch holes into the head unit.

I slept in my car that night with my wife and the freind whom I was driving to Benut to see a bomoh because his wife left him Anyway next morning discovered a nice coffeeshop with nice teh panas and toast just where our car broke down. Towed the car all the way to KL and found out that I have to change the cylinder head, 9 valvves and 2 pistons. At that time there were no potong kereta spare parts. Needless to say, you can guess the damage.

Actually the tyre cost RM108 each plus balancing. The balance is for alignment services. Both front and back. Yes, the original size for 12 inch rim is 155/70/12. I see alot using 14 inch rims with 165/55/14 and I wanted to change too but seeing the potholes and uneven road condition in KL, I think I change later when I move back to small town.

The new shop behind JayaJusco Cheras Selatan (balakong). If you go TekMing in Subang, it is only RM103 for Silverstone Powerblitz PLUS balancing. I think Continental tyres are better in terms of noise, they are more quiet. The Falken is not bad actually, quiet and it is a soft compound so won't last that long but better grip.

http://www.mudah.my/Gear+box+850+tangki+ai...il-10083920.htm
http://www.mudah.my/Gearbox+manual+kancil+850-10035962.htm

I see alot in Mudah.com. Off and on they will appear but some of them outstation.

Not timing but the ratio. More teeth or less teeth. For 850 the standard gear ratio is 1st gear 3.500, 2nd gear 2.111, 3rd gear 1.392, 4th gear 0.971 and 5th gear 0.794 and for 660s the ratio respectively , Hey! they are the same Only the reverse and final ratio lari a bit.

That means the gear box is usable on both models. To change the gear ratios you have to dismantle the whole gear box and the labour charges very expensive. I repaired a Rusa gearbox once(no potong kereta) and change the syncromesh and 1 gear and it cost me over 2K

This post has been edited by etigge: Jun 11 2011, 08:49 AM

New gear box for Rusa, almost 4K plus labour Not mistaken same gearbox as Avanza.

You probably can but takes more effort and longer time to reach the speed and also burn more fuel. Maximum output of a 660 is 22.8KW at 6400 RPM as opposed to 850 which is 27.5 but at lesser 5500 RPM. Anyway I don't think you will drive at 6400 RPM, will you?

The L turbocharged series all max. at 8200 RPM, the engine is made to withstand to that RPM and that's where the extra power comes from.

Both 850 and 660 will reach 110kmh at 4200RPM but will take 660 to attain it in longer time. The same block only different bore and stroke. Difference is 850 has a higher torque. I used to lower the front springs by 2inch in my former 660 and I though of doing it on my 850 now. It turns corner better.

Yalorr! because if you look from the side Kancil front is like higher than the back, like 'conggang' lidat! So, to level the car back, I lowered the front only.

Just level down the front only larr. If you look carefully the front is higher, maybe to compensate two passengers when the weight is there. Just look at the distance between the tyres and the fender, can see the difference. I just level the car only. Drag car looks like that because the front tyres are smaller

Not really recommended but I did it anyway, cut of one and half coil of the original spring. Those lowered readily available springs are harder and they are better for cornering but hard on ride.

The car is a closed deal so nothing much can be done. Take it as a mistake. That part can't be replace and they can cut out the rusted part and weld another part from the potong kereta or weld a steel plate over it, grind and repaint. This is the 'ketuk mudguard' fella's job. It' quite a big hole

Just drive the car to a mudguard fella and see what he says.

Wanna ask you Kancil owners.

My car overheats when I drive hard over 4000 rpm and I usually switch off air cond when the meter reads almost on the 'H' line. The temperature will lower after a while driving with no air-cond. I took the car to a machanic and wanted them to flush (costing RM65) but when they took out the radiator they found out that the water inlet part (plastic or fibre part of the radiator) was chipped and they say they need to change the fibre part. That cost another RM85. Plus the RM65 it will come to RM150.

I went for the new double layer radiator for RM230 plus labour and now the temperature hardly pass the 'C' line. I thought the meter was faulty but I don't think so. Is this normal? I find the car a bit sluggish at this cold temperature. Anyone with standard engine changed to double layered radiator? What's your normal driving temperature?

PS/ Mine is the year 99, 850 standard.

This post has been edited by etigge: Jul 1 2011, 02:04 PM

Yes, it is working.

I just had mine changed to Falken Sincera 155/70/12, all four of them. Although made in Indonesia, I find them grippy and quiet. They won't last long though as they are of soft compound. Of course during rain it is grippy since tyre contact is small with 155mm width I got them for RM107 per tyre with balancing behind JayaJusco Cheras Selatan. Seems they have shifted their operations to Tmn. Tun Perak near the 2020 Foodcourt.

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Added on July 7, 2011, 4:37 amMine has the sound too and when I had the radiator changed I told the mechanic about it. We took a drive and the sound seems subtle when driven slow. The mechanic then jack up the car and check the wheel assembly and did not find problems with the drive shaft, the lower arm or the steering tie rod. He deduced that it has to be the steering rack and advised me to go back to him when it gets louder. The drive shaft bellows were torn though and the mechanic said if you change it now and clean up the assembly and regrease it, the drive shaft will definately give way in a short time, so let it be.

At least he didn't charge me for this inspection and don't simply recommend me to change this or that.

This post has been edited by etigge: Jul 7 2011, 04:37 AM