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 LYN Kancil's Owner Club a.k.a SLK V2~, come come join small lil devil in here~

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Compelica
post Nov 1 2010, 09:05 AM

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Hi guys, driving a 850EX here. Car has already been for more than 10 years but recently just clocked 59000 kilometers. The suspension's starting to go give way now, with cornerings at about 30 - 40 km/h creating a 'clak clak clak' sound, and a lot of thumping when driving on uneven roads. Even riding on those paint strips before bumps I can hear hollow sounds emitting from the rear of my car.

So I'm guessing that it's time to change a lot of things - CV joints, absorbers and drive shafts based on my quick research. Now how much would the damage likely cost me? This Kancil is gonna be with me for quite a long time so proper care must be given.

Also, I recently got a new recon Denso compressor for it, due to the previous one clogging up (another common problem in Kancils). Having bought it at September this year, when should be the next service interval?
Compelica
post Nov 3 2010, 02:34 PM

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QUOTE(tommi88 @ Nov 2 2010, 07:48 PM)
hi. welcome to the club. WOW! more than 10 years and only clocked 59000KM?! thats extremely low mileage for your cars age. mine is 11 years old this year and have already done 279xxxKM.

back to your questions. im not sure bout CV joints but absorbers will cost you around 350+- for front and rear. its also better to replace the front absorber mounting and the rear spring cushions so that all the tear and wear parts are replaced once your car goes into the workshop. and also alignment do at one go rather than replacing the mountings later and then have to do alignment again. Aircond system are recommended to have a through check yearly. at least thats what i do. i think the total cost to replace the tear and wear parts that you have mention and aircond servicing should set you back around RM 1k i assume. =S

cheers mate.
*
Thanks for the reply and the welcome smile.gif

With your ride clocking 279K+ KMs you must have been doing a lot of cross-state travel I guess smile.gif My car's only used to get to universities and the occasional trip to the market lol.

So I went to my usual mech and he did an inspection. He pointed out that one of the drive shafts had the rubber seal torn; oil was leaking and dirt was enveloped all over, so that warranted a change. He quoted RM220 for a recon unit and looking from the box it was originally for a 1.5 Wira.

He later showed that the ball joints had the protective seals torn so the lube leaked out, leaving the joints stiff. Each of them cost about RM120 including the lower arm which comes along with it. The front shock absorbers naturally were beyond its lifespan so he offered me Kayaba Premium shocks at RM125, or Sachs at RM145.

Am I getting a good price here? He said that alignment and works are free, but who knows judging from the price of the parts.
Compelica
post Nov 17 2010, 03:41 PM

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I heard that there is some sort of adjuster behind the glove box which is related to the condenser which it could make the A/C blow out colder air.

Dubious as it sounds since air-con problems are prevalent in Kancils, does it actually exist, and does it actually work if it does?
Compelica
post Nov 30 2010, 02:18 PM

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Anyone know any wiper blade brands to recommend?
Compelica
post Dec 13 2010, 09:20 AM

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You guys got any Kancil mech specialists to recommend around Subang Jaya? I feel my current workshop is cutting me sad.gif
Compelica
post Dec 18 2010, 05:05 PM

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How much petrol can you pump into your Kancils? I think my petrol gauge reading is off; I can only pump up to 15 litres of petrol when the gauge says E. Even the petrol pump stops pumping.

Funnily, after about 200 - 250 KMs the gauge says its empty. Official specs from Perodua say that the size of the tank is 32 litres. Where can I get it checked?
Compelica
post Dec 21 2010, 04:00 PM

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QUOTE(Johnnycartoon @ Dec 19 2010, 08:37 AM)
i can pump up to Rm30+ when the meter is at E and i can go also to about 200-250km only
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QUOTE(kop @ Dec 19 2010, 09:15 AM)
last week we pump rm60 of ron97 into my fren kancil and we got 495km before refuelling. So, rm30 for 250km is good i guess?
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QUOTE(kucingfight @ Dec 21 2010, 11:18 AM)
Max i tried was pumping 30L. That was like driving around 150km more after the 'E' level. no guts to try further  laugh.gif
Should be ok, i'm currently getting around 17-18km/l. light footed though.

*'95, 660cc (M)
*
Nice, at least now I know my car is normal biggrin.gif
Compelica
post Dec 29 2010, 01:52 PM

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Anyone using OSRAM Night Breakers on their square eyed Kancils? IINM they use the H4 size right?
Compelica
post Feb 18 2011, 04:37 PM

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Anyone can recommend a good air filter? I heard Simotas are reasonable in performance and price, and the best would be APEXi in the same category.

Then there's the question of open pod or drop-in as well...
Compelica
post Feb 19 2011, 03:08 PM

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QUOTE(dexmonata @ Feb 18 2011, 08:15 PM)
i'm using apexi open pod for my l2...look nice in engne bay..hehe..plus..i loveeee da suction sound...
*
No demo? tongue.gif
Compelica
post Feb 24 2011, 09:48 AM

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Has anyone done any CAI mods to their SLKs?

I've heard many good things about CAIs - scientifically proven as it is, I still have many doubts myself. So as for a mini-weekend project I'll be plugging one to my 850EX. Since this would be only a test run (or if I could really see the difference, heheh), I'll be jury-rigging it to my car for a few rides to try.

I'd like to keep my car stock as possible without any hard mod so my plans are to:

1. Remove hose where air first enters and replace it with a CAI tube
2. Seal connection with duct tape covered with insulation material tied down with hose clamps
3. Route CAI tube to car front

As for where the other end of the tube can be placed, would it be better at the grille or at the bumper/radiator opening? I don't want a case of hydrolock but having the pipe situated lower helps to create a bend which water cannot enter compared to placing it at the grille.

Any ideas would be great too btw. This is really gonna look ghetto once it's done lol
Compelica
post Apr 5 2011, 03:31 AM

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How do I remove the stock head unit out from the square eyed version?
Compelica
post Apr 28 2011, 09:08 PM

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Anyone using short shifters here?
Compelica
post Apr 29 2011, 01:04 PM

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QUOTE(fluffy6640 @ Apr 28 2011, 10:48 PM)
I had one,during my manual days.very good and simple upgrade.
*

Nice wink.gif I'll be getting one later, but not too sure on how to install one lol

This post has been edited by colinwong89: Apr 29 2011, 01:23 PM
Compelica
post Apr 29 2011, 03:33 PM

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QUOTE(fluffy6640 @ Apr 29 2011, 02:57 PM)
cos the one i got was a tiny thing, it just changes the angle of the shifter to get the effect.i didnt buy the whole rod.hehe.

http://www.kcarlife.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=17922

check out the item i got.im not promoting this guy's stuff,but im just a happy customer to share to item tongue.gif
*
Saw that and was planning to get it wink.gif Just two concerns that I have are if I am still able to use my gear lock, and if the height of the stick changes at all, but seems that it should not.

Also, my car takes quite a bit of strength to enter a gear, especially in the mornings. I know using a short shifter will make it even harder to shift into a gear, so is there anything I could do to improve before I install the short shifter? I've recently changed my gear oil - slightly better but not good enough sad.gif
Compelica
post Apr 30 2011, 07:33 PM

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QUOTE(fluffy6640 @ Apr 29 2011, 07:45 PM)
For the tough shifting I really cannot say, it could be a number of things, but best u can do without actually doing anything to the gb is changing the gb oil.

So far personally I have not had any additional difficulty with changing gears after the short shift.
*
I heard that Kancil gearboxes mostly have problems with engaging 1st gear and reverse, but just gotta disengage and reengage the clutch for it to enter smile.gif

And I just got the short shifter done. Love the hard confirming feel of the stick entering a gear now thumbup.gif
Compelica
post May 6 2011, 03:50 PM

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Now my power windows are acting up. Good thing that I bought a can of silicone lubricant a few days ago biggrin.gif
Compelica
post May 8 2011, 10:15 PM

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Haha power windows, one of the kancil's only luxuries sad.gif

With no lubricant the power window motor would have to work harder to bring the windows down, leading to quicker failure. So I sprayed the lube at the rails, hinges and any points of contact, works wonderfully now biggrin.gif

Last time the windows were so slow until we would 'race' the windows, see which one can go down/up first laugh.gif
Compelica
post May 10 2011, 03:18 AM

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QUOTE(Aquariusdenz @ May 10 2011, 01:16 AM)
me too but not the rear windows due to seldom open.. always produce screeching sound when rolling it.. sad case about manual window is rolling the front passenger side's window when you are driving alone.. because sometimes i enjoy the wind blowing in from both front windows at night..  rolleyes.gif
*
Gotta stretch to the other side flex.gif

For the rear windows, I'm not too sure on how to remove the levers. And if you don't remove the levers, you can't remove the door panels. So what I just did was wind it all the way down, spray lube down the two rails, then repeatedly wind up and down the windows to let the lube spread. Exercise my hands also turning it round and round laugh.gif

By the way, anyone has installed front speakers on the driver doors before? I'm planning to do it this weekend just to make use of a few speakers lying around my house smile.gif

This post has been edited by colinwong89: May 10 2011, 03:19 AM
Compelica
post May 10 2011, 10:11 PM

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QUOTE(fluffy6640 @ May 10 2011, 10:02 PM)
Yea, but I sent my car to the acc shop to do it.they just cut out a hole and done:)
*
I just got it done today lol. I need to tune it up biggrin.gif

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