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 The OFFICIAL 3G Honda City (2009) Thread v3.0, OTT 30/05 9am - 2pm: PM for details. :)

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zweimmk
post Mar 3 2009, 10:41 PM

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QUOTE(sysh @ Mar 3 2009, 05:39 PM)
Well... 5 ppl in the car, be it the NHC, previous version City, Vios , Waja and Persona etc will be sluggish and have sucky FC.
Can't help it. It's only a 1.5l engine. It's not going to do wonders at stock. Just imagine a 1.1 ton + 0.4 ton = 1.5 ton car moving around.
It's gonna hurt..

The only thing we can do is track how the FC will be when the car runs longer.
I actually don't mind the 'noisy' engine, 'cos in relative terms..it's quiet as compared to my previous Waja..hehe!
I do admit the padding in the engine bay is a little spartan, might wanna try to Dynamat it and test it out.

Yup. Nothing is perfect.
..except Jessica Alba's abs..hehe! jk  whistling.gif
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Dynamat is going to add more weight to your car.
mokhzaini
post Mar 3 2009, 10:46 PM

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those people on FC anything, they just put on all-time auto, is it? no pedal shifting aite?
accs_centre
post Mar 4 2009, 12:04 AM

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Hi..Wanna ask that if we take the modulo front facelift, the front grill will be changed to the one as below or not??

user posted image
TSsysh
post Mar 4 2009, 12:14 AM

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QUOTE(accs_centre @ Mar 4 2009, 12:04 AM)
Hi..Wanna ask that if we take the modulo front facelift, the front grill will be changed to the one as below or not??

user posted image
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The Modulo bodykit for the Malaysian market doesn't have that grille.
It just comes with the front bodykit, 2 x side skirts, rear bodykit and boot spoiler..
Have to wait for 'aftermarket' kit for that grille. haven't seen it yet
cppau
post Mar 4 2009, 12:14 AM

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QUOTE(accs_centre @ Mar 4 2009, 12:04 AM)
Hi..Wanna ask that if we take the modulo front facelift, the front grill will be changed to the one as below or not??

user posted image
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No, this front grill only available in Thailand.
accs_centre
post Mar 4 2009, 12:18 AM

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oo..I dont quite like the ori grill looking..
For the bodykit modulo, we can choose to get only the front bodykit, right? Cuz other parts i feel stock one is good enough tongue.gif

This post has been edited by accs_centre: Mar 4 2009, 12:19 AM
andyjyneo
post Mar 4 2009, 12:21 AM

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I guess a simple MUGEN grille like this will do. No need too excessive. If only Honda Japan manufactures City.
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gepochai
post Mar 4 2009, 12:25 AM

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anyone knows if it is possible to install the underseat compartment for E spec ?????
cppau
post Mar 4 2009, 12:39 AM

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Can u list out what petrol u guys using currently? Which one give u more mileage? My previous car using petronas, better mileage than others. But i don't no which is the best for NHC. please advise.


foocy2001
post Mar 4 2009, 12:45 AM

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QUOTE(gepochai @ Mar 4 2009, 12:25 AM)
anyone knows if it is possible to install the underseat compartment for E spec ?????
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Please clarify your question.

You want to know if you can install underseat compartment in S-spec like the E-Spec? If this is what you mean, then the answer is no. E-spec has the underseat compartment as standard.
TSsysh
post Mar 4 2009, 01:02 AM

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QUOTE(cppau @ Mar 4 2009, 12:39 AM)
Can u list out what petrol u guys using currently? Which one give u more mileage? My previous car using petronas, better mileage than others. But i don't no which is the best for NHC. please advise.
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Been using Shell RON97 and Esso / Mobil RON97. It's about the same.
Though I feel perhaps Shell is giving me slightly better mileage, but I may be wrong..maybe it's just my engine after it's 'run in period'
ZeroSP
post Mar 4 2009, 02:16 AM

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Shell is better than others in FC and Power... According comparison using old city with Shell, Mobil, and BHP.

Note: Not referring V-power of course.
aquilaTE
post Mar 4 2009, 02:20 AM

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I prefer Shell for it's mileage but performance, I will go for Caltex.
silverarrows
post Mar 4 2009, 07:17 AM

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QUOTE(aquilaTE @ Mar 4 2009, 02:20 AM)
I prefer Shell for it's mileage but performance, I will go for Caltex.
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I don't see different using RON92 and RON97 from Caltex, from the mileage record.
phachat
post Mar 4 2009, 08:18 AM

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Dear people, my SA told me every time that i start my car, i hafta wait till the 'blue C temperature light' went off, then only i can drive my car. Or else the engine can easily broke down. Where as I read in auto magazines (and chic lit magazines as well!) they say the method only waste ur petrol, and advice on drive slowly at first (till the lights off by itself). Only then u can accelerate.

Which 1 i shud follow??
dinozilla
post Mar 4 2009, 08:35 AM

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QUOTE(gepochai @ Mar 4 2009, 12:25 AM)
anyone knows if it is possible to install the underseat compartment for E spec ?????
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Seriously....look into both spec, see wat u notice other than the case of the compartment down there?

got difference meh? if u can find suitable part to install, i don think u cant make 1 like E spec

QUOTE(phachat @ Mar 4 2009, 08:18 AM)
Dear people, my SA told me every time that i start my car, i hafta wait till the 'blue C temperature light' went off, then only i can drive my car. Or else the engine can easily broke down. Where as I read in auto magazines (and chic lit magazines as well!) they say the method only waste ur petrol, and advice on drive slowly at first (till the lights off by itself). Only then u can accelerate.

Which 1 i shud follow??
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1st 1 is a pre-caution step

2nd 1 i always practice so...my mean is...until light goes off...i don giv hard step, jz gentle step, smtm let D move itself, i don step...
aquilaTE
post Mar 4 2009, 08:40 AM

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QUOTE(silverarrows @ Mar 4 2009, 07:17 AM)
I don't see different using RON92 and RON97 from Caltex, from the mileage record.
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That's why I use Shell instead of Caltex since I find Caltex have poorer mileage but for some reason, I feel the car has a bit more power if I use Caltex... so I guess that is the trade off.
geo_seven
post Mar 4 2009, 08:46 AM

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QUOTE(phachat @ Mar 4 2009, 08:18 AM)
Dear people, my SA told me every time that i start my car, i hafta wait till the 'blue C temperature light' went off, then only i can drive my car. Or else the engine can easily broke down. Where as I read in auto magazines (and chic lit magazines as well!) they say the method only waste ur petrol, and advice on drive slowly at first (till the lights off by itself). Only then u can accelerate.

Which 1 i shud follow??
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as read on the book from city memo. to made the blue temperature light off faster, open full of your aircond fan and temperature... to made the engine faster warm. but normally i just open fan to 3 and temperature set to 80% cold.. the engine warm fast already. i not sure izzit i read it correct on book boh, maybe others can correct my mistake. cause i also dont wnat to using wrong method to break my car engine d.


Added on March 4, 2009, 8:50 am
QUOTE(aquilaTE @ Mar 4 2009, 08:40 AM)
That's why I use Shell instead of Caltex since I find Caltex have poorer mileage but for some reason, I feel the car has a bit more power if I use Caltex... so I guess that is the trade off.
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huh.. Caltex really poorer mileage? cause when i get my car till now i using Caltex only. i was thinking to campur shell v-power for a tank... do we can campur in this way? will it have any side effected for car engine? sorry still very noob on car engine.. hehe

This post has been edited by geo_seven: Mar 4 2009, 08:50 AM
foocy2001
post Mar 4 2009, 09:20 AM

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QUOTE(geo_seven @ Mar 4 2009, 08:46 AM)
as read on the book from city memo. to made the blue temperature light off faster, open full of your aircond fan and temperature... to made the engine faster warm. but normally i just open fan to 3 and temperature set to 80% cold.. the engine warm fast already. i not sure izzit i read it correct on book boh, maybe others can correct my mistake. cause i also dont wnat to using wrong method to break my car engine d.


Added on March 4, 2009, 8:50 am

huh.. Caltex really poorer mileage? cause when i get my car till now i using Caltex only. i was thinking to campur shell v-power for a tank... do we can campur in this way? will it have any side effected for car engine? sorry still very noob on car engine.. hehe
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Idling your engine does waste fuel. Just remember not to rev your car right until it's warmed up (blue low temp light goes off). You can drive the car with blue light on, just go slow. The reason is to allow engine oil to be distributed to all engine parts, as over a long period of time, engine oil will collect in the oil sump at the bottom of the engine thru sheer gravity.

The light will go off quite quickly, not to worry. Don't advise you switch on the air con during warm up, as it 'drags' your engine, just let it warm up normally. Don't be afraid of the blue light! icon_rolleyes.gif

Petrol from different brands can be mixed. It will not affect the engine. No side effects. If you want to test a particular brand, the best indicator is the 3rd tank as you would have fuel from a previous brand leftover in your car when you pumped your 1st tank. Happy testing.

This post has been edited by foocy2001: Mar 4 2009, 09:24 AM
geo_seven
post Mar 4 2009, 09:40 AM

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QUOTE(foocy2001 @ Mar 4 2009, 09:20 AM)
Idling your engine does waste fuel. Just remember not to rev your car right until it's warmed up (blue low temp light goes off). You can drive the car with blue light on, just go slow. The reason is to allow engine oil to be distributed to all engine parts, as over a long period of time, engine oil will collect in the oil sump at the bottom of the engine thru sheer gravity.

The light will go off quite quickly, not to worry. Don't advise you switch on the air con during warm up, as it 'drags' your engine, just let it warm up normally. Don't be afraid of the blue light! icon_rolleyes.gif

Petrol from different brands can be mixed. It will not affect the engine. No side effects. If you want to test a particular brand, the best indicator is the 3rd tank as you would have fuel from a previous brand leftover in your car when you pumped your 1st tank. Happy testing.
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wow... thanks bro, very clear explaination.. now i more understand why we need doing that.. hehe

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