from now on, all lapping dicussions go here
Heatsink Lapping Tutorial+Pics(added 6600) lapped , Discussion and How-To's
Heatsink Lapping Tutorial+Pics(added 6600) lapped , Discussion and How-To's
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Aug 29 2008, 08:12 PM
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VIP
4,809 posts Joined: Jan 2005 |
from now on, all lapping dicussions go here
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Aug 29 2008, 11:24 PM
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Senior Member
562 posts Joined: Mar 2006 From: hell |
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Sep 3 2008, 11:25 AM
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Newbie
4 posts Joined: Sep 2008 |
Hello all. Newb to these forums. Recently made a couple posts over at TomsHardware forums about my lapping/cooling experience with the Xigmatek s1283.
I'll just copy and paste here for anyone that's ineterested. Please note: The approach i take may be considered harcore, but it takes just as much time to lap a cooler the way i do it as it does by all the guides I ever read You can find the original here at the following link http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/248759-2...ek-s1283-lapped , or just read it here on this thread. 1st post I searched the web pretty extensively and didn't find much on this cooler and lapping it, except for 1 post with a pic, and another here about the Heatpipes being thin. Well i took the plunge and lapped my cooler. Thought I would share some results. After lapping the cooler, my idle temps dropped another 2c, and load temps (Orthos for 3 hrs) dropped another 4c. This is with AS5 applied. This is on an e8400 at 3.8Ghz Idle is 37c Load is 48c I went in steps with these polising and wet/dry sandpapers: 1500 2000 3600 6000 8000 12000 The 3600 and above are from a plastic modeling kit, used to buff the paint job. Here's some pics: (sry can't seem to get them to post in this thread) Before Lapping http://www.imagedump.com/index.cgi?pick=get&tp=538157 http://www.imagedump.com/index.cgi?pick=get&tp=538158 After lapping http://www.imagedump.com/index.cgi?pick=get&tp=538159 http://www.imagedump.com/index.cgi?pick=get&tp=538160 So there ya go. Not sure if anyone's really interested in the fact that these can be lapped pretty well, but if you were, now you know what type of results you can have. /D 2nd post - Responses the associate - Glad to hear your happy with the cooler. I was considering the True Black cooler (had great success with their products before) but I'm glad I got the Xigmatek. Even after deciding to lap it, I figured it out that if i were to sand through the heatpipes, i could order another one and still be less out of pocket. Nils and iluvgillgill - Yes they do make 12,000 grit, and even higher, up to 20,000 in some polishing kits, and down to 4micron if your really a freak. I have a kit here that I use for plastic models (I like the paint job to look like glass :wahoo: ) I'll link the kit at the end of this post, and explain what I do. skittle - Sorry but the cooler is installed in it's final position now. I've done all my temp testing as well as orientation testing for temps. Rest assured though, it's flat and shiny Just as a note for anyone who's interested, I found that the cooler works best for me with my setup in a horizontal position. The layout of my MB and the way that the cpu sits in it's socket puts the cores in a horizontal position. I was curious if mounting the cooler with the center heatpipe directly accross the cores (E8400) would make a difference... It did, although it was only 1c at idle and 1-2c at load. I did this before I lapped the cooler, and did not check to see if the difference was still there after lapping, but I would assume that my first test would hold true. From most posts that I have read about Quad Cores though, the orientation doesn't seem to make a difference, since you are now cooling 4 cores that are oriented in a different fashion. slim - I did not use any type of polishing liquid. Plain old tap water has always worked best. Another thing to think about with polishing liquid is that we don't exactly know what each type of chemical is that is used in the polish itself.. Will it be absorbed into the metals (copper and/or aluminum) ??? So to stay on the safe side, I recommend nothing but water. I'm not sure what others use, but water is a good lubricant, and we know that it won't cause any adverse affects. The Kit - Hobbico makes it, it's called "Hobbico Micro-Mesh Model Polishing Kit. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFHZ0 The grits are one of each micro-mesh sheets, 3200, 3600, 4000, 6000, 8000, and 12000 grit Each sheet measures 3" x 4" These sheets are extremely soft, pliable, and hold water very well. (You won't need to tape them down when you get to the stage where you will use them). Better yet, I have my same set for 12+ years now. The new kits come with a Sanding block (no no), a flanel cloth (are we cold) and a liquid abrasive...ABRASIVE... As the word implies, it's an abrasive. We're not looking to scuff the surface, we're looking to create a mirror finish. All this for less than $20US! you'll enjoy years of fun with your new polishing kit...Take it on vacation, out to dinner, over to your friends house, you'll be the envy of everyone on the blue bus! ok, back on topic... REMEMBER - Your doing this at your own risk and expense, so be careful not to over do it with the 1500 and 2000 grit wet/dry papers. Take your time If you've never lapped a cooler before, I suggest a search on the web for a lapping guide that you understand best This is the part of the process that removes the most material, so work smart!! I start off as usual with 1500 grit and then 2000 grit until I have a cloudy mirror finish. I move the cooler back and forth in a striaght line for a few minutes at a time, and then turn the cooler approx 30 degrees, so that I'm not sanding the same exact grooves and possibly creating a valley in the surface. This will be also be the longest part of the process. Once you move to the 3600 and above grit, it will only take a few minutes with each I then move to the 3600, 6000, 8000 and finally 12,000 grit sheets. This is where I change my method a little. I no longer go back and forth with the cooler, I instead using a clockwise/counter-clockwise pattern. It won't take much time at all with each one, and you'll also notice that as you move up in grit, the time will become shorter. I skip over the 3200 and 4000 grit. why? I'm not really sure, just didn't see the need to only jump up 400grit inbetween. Once I have the surface a mirror finish, I clean it well with Isopropyl Alcohol and let it dry overnight (again, I'm just a freak like that, the alcohol will dry pretty fast). For applying the AS5, I found that this was the best method - http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?opti...=1&limitstart=5 Read down to his last method, thats the one I found to work the best, although i needed nowhere near the amount of TIM that he used. Enjoy, /D This post has been edited by Daimyo68: Sep 3 2008, 11:49 AM |
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Sep 3 2008, 11:49 AM
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Senior Member
1,988 posts Joined: Aug 2005 From: Puchong, Selangor |
@Daimyo68
WoW!!.. really great work there... and about the 3600,6000,8000,12000 grit sandpaper where can i get them?... need em to polish my car's foglight cuz its getting yellowish and clouded... my d-tek fuzion v2 already mirror finish no need lap d... |
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Sep 3 2008, 11:57 AM
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Newbie
4 posts Joined: Sep 2008 |
QUOTE(IcEMoCHa @ Sep 2 2008, 11:49 PM) @Daimyo68 Thanks for the comment!WoW!!.. really great work there... and about the 3600,6000,8000,12000 grit sandpaper where can i get them?... need em to polish my car's foglight cuz its getting yellowish and clouded... my d-tek fuzion v2 already mirror finish no need lap d... As for your headlights... heh I'm in the automotive business. Kits that we get for healights go up to 2000 grit, and then a sealer when done. I'll look to see what the sealer is tomorrow when i open up. As for the "Polishing Kit", it's a Plastic Model Polishing/finishing kit: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFHZ0 The newer kits come with a polisher/abrasive, and a sanding block. I got my kit several years ago when they didn't come with that stuff. /D |
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Sep 3 2008, 02:15 PM
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Senior Member
6,583 posts Joined: Feb 2008 |
@Daimyo68
what a good job.... i once lap my xigmatek with 1000, 1500, 2000 grit is nothing near your mirror like finish.... a very good job bro i really didnt know there is sandpaper above 3000 grit.... This post has been edited by ham_revilo: Sep 3 2008, 02:16 PM |
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Sep 3 2008, 06:40 PM
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Senior Member
2,547 posts Joined: Oct 2007 |
This is madness!!
superbly good lapping never seen anything like this before |
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Sep 11 2008, 01:21 PM
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Senior Member
4,688 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: http://127.0.0.1 |
for the processor IHS, i can only do dry sanding right?i doubt somebody would want to wash their processors
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Sep 12 2008, 10:27 AM
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Newbie
4 posts Joined: Sep 2008 |
QUOTE(cloudstrife07 @ Sep 11 2008, 01:21 AM) for the processor IHS, i can only do dry sanding right?i doubt somebody would want to wash their processors Correct, you would not use any lubrication at all. Here's a link to a site that explains the general procedure:http://forums.pureoverclock.com/showthread.php?t=874 Make sure your grounded!!! I'm tempted to do this myself. It will definately make a couple degrees difference, maybe more under load. A local supplier has the e8400 for about 150US now, so it's not a huge loss, although it would still be a loss and a lesson learned. I was recently crawling the web and seen a cpu taken all the way down to the cores. The guy did a great job, took him about 6 hours if i remember correctly. There were also other mods that needed to be done after his work because of the amount of material removed from the cpu. Clearances and heights changed. If I can find the post again, I'll link it. /D EDIT - Here's the link. make sure to scroll down to see how much material was taken off. it's a whole lot Guess it would have been good to include the link http://www.ocforums.com/showthread.php?t=576831 This post has been edited by Daimyo68: Sep 13 2008, 10:52 AM |
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Sep 13 2008, 08:18 AM
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Junior Member
241 posts Joined: Oct 2004 |
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Sep 13 2008, 11:45 AM
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Junior Member
317 posts Joined: Mar 2008 |
wow.... thats 1 hell of a lapping... so shiny
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Sep 13 2008, 04:02 PM
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Senior Member
6,583 posts Joined: Feb 2008 |
QUOTE(Daimyo68 @ Sep 12 2008, 10:27 AM) Correct, you would not use any lubrication at all. Here's a link to a site that explains the general procedure: thanks for sharing bro... it really reveal the cores and it looks damn good http://forums.pureoverclock.com/showthread.php?t=874 Make sure your grounded!!! I'm tempted to do this myself. It will definately make a couple degrees difference, maybe more under load. A local supplier has the e8400 for about 150US now, so it's not a huge loss, although it would still be a loss and a lesson learned. I was recently crawling the web and seen a cpu taken all the way down to the cores. The guy did a great job, took him about 6 hours if i remember correctly. There were also other mods that needed to be done after his work because of the amount of material removed from the cpu. Clearances and heights changed. If I can find the post again, I'll link it. /D EDIT - Here's the link. make sure to scroll down to see how much material was taken off. it's a whole lot Guess it would have been good to include the link http://www.ocforums.com/showthread.php?t=576831 |
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Sep 14 2008, 01:02 AM
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Senior Member
558 posts Joined: Jun 2006 From: KL Sentral - Segamat |
@Daimyo68
OMG....*speechless* |
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Sep 20 2008, 02:22 AM
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Junior Member
209 posts Joined: Dec 2006 From: Selangor |
QUOTE(syahirax @ Aug 29 2008, 11:24 PM) i dont know how proper i lapped.. but,true is kinda big.. so,in the process of lapping,the hsf keep senget2.. mean its not stick to the ground,always wan fall.. any solution?btw Daimyo68,is that mirror? This post has been edited by xhacker: Sep 20 2008, 02:23 AM |
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Sep 24 2008, 11:38 AM
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Newbie
4 posts Joined: Sep 2008 |
eh, been out in the field for a couple weeks...
Glock88 - about $30 US for all the sandpapers. Go back up a couple posts to my original and I explain how I lap a heatsink. ham_revilo - That guy in the link is has some serious patience. most cpu's don't survive when people take 'em down that far. xhacker - thanks for the compliment. I did manage a mirror finish |
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Oct 22 2008, 03:15 PM
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Junior Member
180 posts Joined: Sep 2007 From: Kuala Lumpur |
hehe nothing to do yesterday.....
lapping a copper base p4 cooler that found at my store room. only use 1000 grit + brasso ![]() ![]() This post has been edited by Kian2391: Oct 22 2008, 03:16 PM |
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Dec 14 2008, 01:12 AM
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Senior Member
1,945 posts Joined: Mar 2008 From: Malaya |
WTAsk u guys out there, who uses hyper 212? did u guys lap it n is there any significant improvement?
i think i'm gonna do it when i change my mobo n proc soon, hope u guys can help me here. thx in advance |
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Dec 17 2008, 01:57 AM
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Senior Member
1,550 posts Joined: Aug 2008 |
wanna know something, will the nickel coating come off if i lap my heatsink? currently using cm z600
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Jan 4 2009, 12:36 PM
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Junior Member
178 posts Joined: Jun 2008 From: Penang |
I have a question here. Can I lap my heatsink all over again with 600, 800, 1500, 2500 grit sandpaper even after I lapped it with 1500 and 2500 grit?
QUOTE(iBenQ @ Dec 17 2008, 01:57 AM) wanna know something, will the nickel coating come off if i lap my heatsink? currently using cm z600 Dunno about yours, but my V8's coating came off after i lapped it, but only at the edges.This post has been edited by EasternBadge: Jan 4 2009, 12:39 PM |
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Jan 6 2009, 05:51 AM
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Senior Member
1,550 posts Joined: Aug 2008 |
just lapped my cm z600....
results are as follow: stress test before lapping ![]() before lap ![]() after 800 and 1000 grit ![]() after 1500 grit ![]() after 2000 grit ![]() stress test after lapping ![]() after THREE LONG hours of lapping, this is wat i got: 1. warranty void for my heatsink, guess i can throw away the receipt now 2. back pain 3. dirty hands 4. 2c in temperature drop during linx man, i gotta say, its so worth it.... wat more the thermal paste hasnt been cured 100% yet i might consider lapping my proc too This post has been edited by iBenQ: Jan 6 2009, 05:51 AM |
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