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Household [Home Appliances] Air-con

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weikee
post Nov 15 2011, 02:32 PM

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It use thicker piping for Inverter. A/C fellow can solder a thinner copper if you want to use smaller HP / non inverter A/C.

Check with A/C installer lah. You pay them to install, you have the right to ask them question. And ask more than 2 contractor. This is how we learn.
weikee
post Nov 15 2011, 03:41 PM

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QUOTE(leeyung @ Nov 15 2011, 03:11 PM)
Yupe, bro weikee correct, inverter copper piping is much thicker as compared to non-inverter. Unless your copper pipe is concealed, if not concealed one, you can change anytime in future. The A/C ppl told me conceal the drain pipe only, copper pipe can hide without conceal (according to some house structure, can hide nicely) as in the case of any problem, easier to troubleshoot.

Regarding the wiring, I didnt know Sharp has secondary control signal until I saw weikee's post, did you ask the sharp fella that secondary one used to control what? brows.gif
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Not sure, but is good to pull 5 wires. Won't cost much. Another method i learn from the A/C installer is use the earth wire as secondary controller wire, and use the copper pipe as Ground. So 4 wire is possible to use Sharp too.
weikee
post Nov 15 2011, 04:47 PM

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QUOTE(leeyung @ Nov 15 2011, 04:31 PM)
Herm, copper pipe as ground ar? In the case of any gas leakage, then it will be troublesome lor?
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Nope, cause wires also made of copper. But you plan to use inverter, just put 5 wires better.
weikee
post Nov 15 2011, 11:04 PM

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For conceal, is good to have inverter for future usage, better pay extra few hundred, than later need to hack and redo.
weikee
post Nov 16 2011, 07:32 AM

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QUOTE(philipcs @ Nov 16 2011, 01:03 AM)
Want to ask about the air con setup for 20x70 living and dining hall.
Usually how is the setup?

2hp in living and 1.5hp in dining enough?
Or 1 2.5hp in living only? but can dining get the cool air?

I need some advice here. Appreciate anyone can share their current setup.
Thanks.
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20x70 living and dinning hall is very big, you need lots of A/C
weikee
post Nov 16 2011, 09:40 AM

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I use 2hp for my living hall, 1hp for dining area (with dry kitchen).

My living hall is about 21 x 16, dining area 11x 20

For me is not really cold, just enough to make it only. If I have the cash, I'll go for 3 x 2hp.
weikee
post Nov 16 2011, 10:15 AM

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QUOTE(Eng_Tat @ Nov 16 2011, 09:59 AM)
wei kee your dry kc and dining area is together? so living hall and dining area is seperated?
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Living hall and dry kitchen are together. Dinning area is in between living all and dry kitchen, all open area.


Added on November 16, 2011, 10:17 am
QUOTE(papaya2 @ Nov 16 2011, 10:11 AM)
maybe all brand inverter aircond can use non-inverter copper pipe in future due to advance technology coming that time, all aircond manufacturers consider this market in future as no need for consumers change thier exist copper pipe. just to my cent... tongue.gif
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In Europe, the direct replacement of R22 gas is R417A, all R22 design system can use R417A just need to fill bit more say 10% more than standard R22 filling.

Maybe Malaysia will adopt this too. So copper can be standard like R22 biggrin.gif


Added on November 16, 2011, 10:18 am
QUOTE(philipcs @ Nov 16 2011, 10:13 AM)
hmm... i cant afford 3 x 2HP too, dont forget the electricity bill  rclxub.gif

Here is my floor plan, smaller than yours, hope 2HP in Living and 1HP in Dry kitchen is sufficient.

user posted image
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Living hall 2hp, and dining area 1hp should give you some cooling, if you really like cold like i do, is really not enough. I like minimal 20c

This post has been edited by weikee: Nov 16 2011, 10:18 AM
weikee
post Nov 16 2011, 11:44 AM

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QUOTE(leeyung @ Nov 16 2011, 10:24 AM)
wa, 20c pretty cold for me d tongue.gif
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My style, if want cold make it cold. not "5354". I can stand cold or hot but not stuffy.
weikee
post Nov 16 2011, 05:00 PM

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QUOTE(kelvyn @ Nov 16 2011, 04:07 PM)
install air curtain  tongue.gif
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More expensive.
weikee
post Nov 18 2011, 09:44 AM

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Sometime is all about luck too.

From past experience I found the National are much more reliable, but after the single brand to Panasonic is no longer that case.
weikee
post Nov 21 2011, 09:37 PM

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QUOTE(fubu233 @ Nov 21 2011, 07:18 PM)
guys, how does the aircond contractor direct the drain pipe from the head unit of the aircond other then pulling a pipe outside to the roof?

The reason is i want to ask some indon to hack the wall for copper laying, so the aircond contractor can just come and lay without hacking.
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Drain pipe use gravity, so all the way down. This is how water work. If you put drain pipe up the roof, your a/c is above the roof? Common sense please.
weikee
post Nov 22 2011, 10:04 PM

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You end up finger pointing.
weikee
post Nov 29 2011, 10:10 AM

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The installer put in 3 wires, even if your copper is thick for inverter your selection of inverter a/c is limited. Cause some inverter use 5 wires, and some use 4 wires.

If the copper hose is for inverter, you can still use some of the inverter (4 wires) by using the copper hose as earth, the red = Live, Black = neutral, and green = Signal/communication.
weikee
post Nov 29 2011, 09:40 PM

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Go to the compressor area check how many cable. That is the best.

The cable outside the hose could be incoming power. Or maybe is signal control. If signal control it will terminate at the compressor area too.
weikee
post Nov 30 2011, 11:02 AM

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One is called high pressure another is called low pressure smile.gif
weikee
post Dec 11 2011, 05:57 PM

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QUOTE(Eng_Tat @ Dec 11 2011, 11:29 AM)
hi guys, want to ask is 2.5mm wires enuff for connecting between the compressor and blower for 1.5hp? thanks
2.5mm wire is cheaper than 4mm 50% 100m coil is rm55 and rm110
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Enough.
weikee
post Dec 13 2011, 12:13 PM

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QUOTE(lowlowc @ Dec 13 2011, 11:49 AM)
May I know what is the meaning back to back installation? I understand it's aircon installed with the outdoor unit right behind it after the wall. How about install aircon on the wall, the pipe going straight out from the wall to outside then a few feet away to the outdoor unit? Is that considered back to back?

Also, does back-to-back installation requires hacking and cementing back? At first I want to let my contractor settle the aircon cause we want concealed piping (not back-to-back). But he’s slow… so I’m thinking to deduct that work out and only buy air con after we move in and go for back to back. Now my concern is whether there’s hacking and I would need contractor to help me cement/plastering back that area.

Hope my explanation of my scenario is clear. I’m so kucar-kacir now because of the renovation thing! Stress...
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Do the back to back have enough opening for compressor / blower unit?


Added on December 13, 2011, 12:17 pmAnd is that the best location? Compressor is not light so got to mount on proper structure and also is it in nice efficient area with lots of breathing for compressor.

This post has been edited by weikee: Dec 13 2011, 12:17 PM
weikee
post Dec 13 2011, 03:01 PM

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QUOTE(lowlowc @ Dec 13 2011, 02:50 PM)
You mean does the outdoor unit have enough place to be mounted there?

It’s a double storey so I have an area like balcony (but not accessible unless climb out of window) outside the window. One at the outside area of my master bedroom (let’s call it A) and another at outside of bedroom 3 (let’s call it B). I guess the air cons can sit at the balconies. I wanted to install 3 air con.

1. Master bedroom and lead the pipe to outdoor unit at balcony A.
2. Living room at ground floor but let the outdoor unit at balcony A too.
3. Bedroom 2 and let the outdoor unit at balcony B (balcony B is outside of bedroom 3, next to bedroom 2)

I’ve seen my neighbor putting the air con at (1) & (2) so I guess should be ok. Not sure about (3)

But is this consider as back to back and standard installation? But I know over 10 feet will charge by feet la.

Do I need people to help me cement/plaster back the holes or the air con installer capable to open holes just nice for the piping that I don’t need to do cementing back?
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If you plan to conceal the piping, is better to do during renovation before your contractor do wall plastering. Normal A/C installation will not hack and conceal, unless you pay them extra. Is a lump sum charges per a/c. And I can tell you their plastering skill is no where near wet work contractor.

If you are ok to have the black hose expose on the outdoor unit than can be done after renovation. The only think you need to take note if the indoor blower unit is not mount on the wall facing outside, you will have some hose expose. If that is fine.

Normal small opening holes the a/c install will be able to seal it, but usually not cement, just the normal white wall putty.
weikee
post Dec 15 2011, 11:40 PM

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QUOTE(sue.chan @ Dec 15 2011, 10:49 PM)
Need some advice here.

I hv been told by a shop at SS2 just now that Panasonic air cond is out of stock due to flood in Thailand. Then he highly recommended me York.

Went to another shop a few doors away and I was told Panasonic air cond is assembled in msia. But It's not recommended due to high consumption of electricity, noisy and it vibrates. Then he highly recommended me Mitsubishi.

Any feedback from current Panasonic user ?
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York will be powerful, but is bit noisy.
weikee
post Dec 16 2011, 09:56 AM

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QUOTE(mell_amir @ Dec 16 2011, 03:12 AM)
my house using daikin inverter 1.0hp since february 2010
i've service once last june..
then early this month the aircond malfunction..
i've call daikin dealer and they checked my outdoor unit was spoilt..
how many years warranty for the daikin outdoor unit?
and 1 more thing they said it spoilt coz 'kena kilat'
i felt weird because before it spoilt, no raining or thunder etc..
how come it spoilt?
and they wanna charge me araound rm900++ including labour
is it reasonable?
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Did the technician show you what was fried? usually when fried by lightning you see some burn marked.

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