i think putting in bass traps and acoustic panels will help a lot. the empty hard surfaces are reflecting too much sound energy especially low frequencies

you need to do something like this:

[attachmentid=620084]

oooh ok i just read about rattling.. ehh remember ur physics? those rattling caused by resonance lerr.. everything (matter / compound) have a resonance limit one.. like in my room my window frames resonate most at 14hz i think.. my ceiling resonate most at around 17hz.

so meaning if ur ceiling rattling, it has nothing to do with ur curtains/windows because that does not effect the resonance threshold of ur ceiling.. so.. unless u treat ur ceiling properly (by finding out what exactly is causing the rattling, if its loose fitting then tighten + insulate with good shock obsorbers, and etc..

the thing about echo as mentioned by htkaki is also a cause to the rattle as the echo could be on a diff hz which may be the exact hz that creates the resonance.. so.. room treatment again very important.. avoid bare tiled floors, naked corners, shiny walls+shiny paint job, loose fittings..

and about ur thick curtains.. u have to understand that sound is not like light.. as curtain may be effective to damp light.. it may not be as effective to damp sound.. well not all spectrum of the sound.. those sound that create resonance most probably the low freq ones.. and with those sounds.. ur curtain will be audibly invisible.. u have to use proper sound obsorber, diffuser for this low/high freq.. same thing with wall cusions and wat not it may not be effective to low freq...

hmm typed too much.. should rest now.. haha im begining to enjoy Planet Drum as my goodnight sleep song hehehehe

Bro, you buying ah? 

This sub is in diff league compare to CHT-12R. My friend's SPL1200R tapao his very own B&W both 6 series sub. But, his room is nicely done with no vibration and very good acoustic treatment. When you are here, I ll bring you over to test it out. But, no antidote provided 

dun dare to go ur friend house la

tat one is 1 way tix....go home very jialat 

I recently invested in a budget sub and modded it quite extensively. Its sounds a whole lot different from stock.
yes, I have plaster ceiling, I have aluminum windows and other house fixtures that can rattle. The sub is now so good it doesn't rattle anything. If it does rattle anything, its just too loud!.

Kena poison liao without antidote   

There is another fella who is doing up his 40' x 60' HT room. Sld be ready by next mth end

You mod your sub or you mod your house to stop rattling?

Mod the SUB..the electronics I mean, (as in VOID the warranty from Day 1) Not the house.
The mods increased the timing, coherence and keep pace with the music. Before that there's timing issues and issues quite common to cheap subwoofers, that even an untrained ear can fault it easily. This is quite a common phenomenon for subwoofers which make things more difficult in speaker system integration for stereo hifi. I won't say mine is damn good or whatever but I think my mods made it sound better..to my ears...less rattle and boom at lowest registers.
BTW, I use mine for hifi.. not AV as I'm not into it at all.

Hi! My I seek ur advice? Is there any way to use a car amp powered car sub-woofer in home av system? I have ask & poke around the net for answer. It seem that the power supply is an issue. So do u know anyway to supply high ampere steady 12V PSU? Any cpu psu with that high supply? Can mod or not??? Tq very much. Have a nice day!

A car amp can be used but you must connect it to the speaker input terminals provided at the subwoofer. By doing this, the subwoofer perform as passive type, and is limited to the car amp output power to drive it. If your powered active subwoofer is rated at say 100W power, then your car amp better be approximately around that figure. Driving a subwoofer passively with less power may limit the performance and result in some deficiencies in its actual potential.
A car amp (especially if its hi-power and current guzzler) requires quite substantial current at 12VDC. Thats one reason an optimum sized car battery has sufficient juice for the purpose and the car alternator charges the battery at high ampere's to maintain the charge, but building up a PSU just for a car amp may incur substantial cost and it must be a clean DC supply as possible. I never recommend PC PSU or SMPS boxes to power any amplification equipment as they're switched mode PSU's and with very "dirty and noisy" DC current which can impair the amplifier sonics. The noise floor of the amplifier is raised quite noticibly. In practice, I wouldn't use a car amp as part of a Home AV system. Let the car amp be used where it's supposed to be..in the car.

I intended to connect:- Av sub out to car mono block amp in, which powered a car 12" sub woofer.    It seem I am stuck at the power supply stage. Now where to get a 'cheap' PSU for the car amp???   Tq for ur advice!

hi all, newbie here..

wanna ask one question;

currently i am using pioneer AV receiver + AE speakers set + active sub.
while watching dvd (dts/dolby mode), the sub is superb.. but when listening music in stereo mode, the sub is silent.. all the bass came from the front speakers.

is my setup correct?

TQ