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Hi-Fi Sonus Faber, The artisan of sound

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mugenfoo
post Oct 16 2008, 10:38 PM

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ok, lets get back to the "main thrust" for interests sake ...

high current in an amp is like a good engine in a car:
What makes a car "good" ? Certainly not the engine alone ... but if u got a crap engine to start with, very unlikely the car can be considered overall "good". This is what the "main thrust" is all about eh ?

And back to Ongaku ... its pure overpriced hype and just too overrated (no thanks to the reviewers). Ongaku, Kagu-On, etc etc...
Or if one already has the lear jet, the mansion on the hill with italian hot wheels, and still too much spare change... forget about the Ongaku, go ahead and splurge on an "FM Acoustics" instead. tongue.gif
(ok, i'm digressing here again, but u get the idea...)

Another analogy coming up ... "tubes for amps" is like "carburetors for cars"....
I'd rather choose the sequential multipoint fuel injection system with closed-loop wideband lambda system anytime.

Its time to move on with the tech curve instead of being caught in a time-capsule.






mugenfoo
post Oct 17 2008, 03:45 PM

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I always enjoy the music ... but i also enjoy the arguments too tongue.gif



BTW, Ah-Rock is now a "Behringer" guy ...


mugenfoo
post Oct 17 2008, 09:56 PM

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QUOTE(Y.C. @ Oct 17 2008, 07:32 PM)
A short phrase to sum up: TO EACH THEIR OWN.

Constructive arguments backed by both logical qualitative and quantitaive explanations should be welcomed on proviso that we do not impose our beliefs onto others as "one man's meat could just be the poison to anothertongue.gif
*
Ah, this is most true... Jedem das Seine


Specs and performance are measurable and quantifiable.

Acoustics and sound is subjective.

Some person's "arbitrary numerical rating" on whats good or better and then some other people using it for an argument, .... well, u get the idea.


mugenfoo
post Oct 20 2008, 11:20 PM

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QUOTE(Y.C. @ Oct 19 2008, 06:49 PM)
To each their own and Jedem das Seine meant the same, difference is the language saying it.

When I referred to logical qualitative and quantitative explanations, I was referring to you offering them and I for one look forward to reading your arguments.  Let us not turn this debate of ours into a personal quarrel as it was definitely not intended to be so in the very first place, can or not?

I agreed all reviews are subjective and so are our views, no exception even to MC’s awarding  points to the equipment he reviewed. I mentioned it as a by-the-way comment since he is quite a Krell lover himself, no difference from your mentioning of KK’s view that the KAV-300i is even capable of driving SF Extremas.   tongue.gif
*
who's quarreling ? We're "exchanging ideas". tongue.gif


Added on October 20, 2008, 11:22 pm
QUOTE(hushymushy @ Oct 20 2008, 12:38 AM)
may i know wat is the considered good pricing for the Sonus Fabers?

I'm looking at 3 models

Concertino
Concerto
Grand Piano

hope members here can share
*
which generation r u referring to.. ? The Concertos i got ain't even close to the Concertos of today.


This post has been edited by mugenfoo: Oct 20 2008, 11:22 PM
mugenfoo
post Nov 1 2008, 11:34 PM

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ich dun think you understand the relationship between wattage power delivery and speaker impedance...


Added on November 1, 2008, 11:42 pmANYWAYs..... Back to Sonus Fabers....

Nice wooden finished speakers... Can almost get away for being mistaken as some artsy fartsy piece of decor. Chicks dig it.

ViFa drivers.

Works best with matching stands.


This post has been edited by mugenfoo: Nov 1 2008, 11:42 PM
mugenfoo
post Nov 6 2008, 01:11 AM

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i don't use my Concertos for hi-fi anymore .. so can't really describe how they are placed except that i used to have them more than 4 ft from rear wall coz i like the depth and soundstaging (at the expense of bottom bass) setup.

Listening position is an isosceles to almost equilateral triangle setup.
I like extreme toe-ins until i can see the outer sidewall cabinet. Gives good focus especially if the room is not symmetrical or has alot of clutter like desks and other odd furniture.


Added on November 6, 2008, 1:18 am
QUOTE(Y.C. @ Nov 3 2008, 11:09 PM)
Me a sifu? I certainly do not qualify as one as yet and very much a keen enthusiast or audio buff as of today.

My view is that carpet is not a pre-requisite in the listening room. Its purpose of being there is to damp the room besides decoration and so is a sofa which is used for sitting, shelves filled with books/CDs/LPs plus other furniture. The listening room must not be under-damped (too empty) or overly-damped (too full of things resulting music to sound dead/one-note) but to strike a correct balance in between for music to sound airy enough and lively (but not overly so). How to determine whether the listening room is just right? Walk around in it while clapping hand at the same time. If at certain point in the room, the clap resulted in 'stinging' sound, these are the standing waves which much be eliminated. How does this sound like? Go to an empty house/room and clap your hands there. How about overly-damped? Go to the store full of things and clap your hands there.

So back to carpet, if the listening room/area is quite empty, its presence would certainly help whereas if it already too packed with things, its absence would be much looked forward to.
*
can lookup the terms for room acoustics:

there is the common "RT60" spec, which is the reverbtime taken to decay to -60dB from the initial impulse.

Some room responses may follow the Sabine, Erying (dunno how its spelt) or Kutruff specs for "Acceptable" room reverb times across a the audible frequency band.


Echo slaps ( when you hear your handclap going piak-piak-piak-piak.... like a machine gun aka stinging sound) .. thats bad. Need acoustic treatment to remove these. The handclap test should have just one Piiiaakkk with decent decay (RT60) .


sometimes, not to overdamp the room and maintain some ambiance... a good solution is to look into sound diffusers. These passive treatments are best bang for buck. When used correctly, makes the room sound very open, improve bass "bloom" (not boom) and helps vocal audibility.


This post has been edited by mugenfoo: Nov 6 2008, 01:18 AM
mugenfoo
post Nov 6 2008, 10:54 PM

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this is better. Built your listening room, model your loudspeakers and perform acoustic calculations, simulate speaker and listening positioning.

http://www.cara.de


Make sure u got at least a Pentium-4 to do those simulations or it will take forever (also depends how complex u build your models).



This post has been edited by mugenfoo: Nov 6 2008, 10:57 PM
mugenfoo
post Apr 2 2009, 04:16 PM

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SFs are very good when paired with aggresive amps (thats why SF & Krell are so kawan kawan).



SF driven by "lazy" amps ... sure will sound overly laidback and boring. Unless you like laidback & boring sound tongue.gif

SFs are not the most tonally accurate speakers, but their build philosophy that their speakers are crafted as "musical instruments" , is in giving u a very musical and involving sound (as opposed to an overly-clinical speaker like some studio monitors).



mugenfoo
post Apr 3 2009, 12:40 PM

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actually all this "warming up" is just for the electronic components to reach their operating temperatures.

Capacitors, resistors, transistors, & IC chips will have slightly different ELECTRICAL characteristics at different temperatures.

So the warming up is just for the while amp or CD player or DAC or whatever to reach their "stablised" operating temperature, then you get a
"stable" sonic character.

Same goes for the speaker woofers since they are mechanical movement ... once broken in, they will sound optimum just as the way the manufacturer intended them to be.

There is no voodoo or black magic about warming up broken-in that will make the sound miraculously superior or anything.
You really need at least a decent resolution hi-fi system to really tell the difference between "cold start" sound vs "fully warmed up" sound.

Don't forget, human hearing also changes over a period of constant listening .. You go to a rock concert, the first 1/2 hour is really loud but after a while your ears naturally tighten up & become less sensitive. Then after the concert is over, while driving home your Proton/Honda/Toyota but the car engine will sound very quiet like a Mercedes or Lexus .... Then the next morning when you drive out for dim sum breakfast , the engine sound like a Proton/honda/toyota again with its usual noise levels. smile.gif






QUOTE(ah liew @ Apr 3 2009, 11:21 AM)
i see... so just let the speakers & cables run in for a week so called "broken in"

but regards to the amp ermm... got so many type of amp wor...
my current amp is just a intergrated from Arcam, sales man said the technology is so good that wouldn't need to warm up?  hmm.gif


Added on April 3, 2009, 11:22 am

Thanks!  icon_rolleyes.gif
*
mugenfoo
post Apr 5 2009, 08:50 AM

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QUOTE(ah liew @ Apr 4 2009, 12:28 PM)
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


thanks for the long explaination, now i'm clear about this warm up myth.

but does it applies to Hi-End Audios only or to normal ones too? 

let's say a basic setup with Toy speaker model, what amp & cd player goes well with sonus. Like Castle always goes well with Arcam & Nad.
*
better amp is always more welcomed. OF COURSE, still need to work within a budget right ?



Warm up applies to all equipment cheap or expensive. But in really really really reallyreally cheap and nasty stuff like < RM150 PC-speaker sets, you probably wont hear the difference coz the sound quality is just too lousy to begin with.



If u got a entry to mid type Sonus bookshelves, decent amps like Nad / Cambridge Audio also can.
If u got bigger Sonuses, then will need amps with more Ommmph.

But bear in mind, even the old-school smaller Sonuses like the Electa / Electa-Amator can be quite power hungry and will need mid range amps to drive.

I had Concertos (1st gen type) driven by an Exposure amp and a Krell amp. The sound difference is really very very contrasting.

mugenfoo
post Apr 6 2009, 12:35 AM

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bro, if u get a chance .... do try the Concertino Domus paired with something slightly better than the Nad 3020A, mebbe a modern day Exposure integrated amp or similar (those silver colour ones) ... you might be pleasantly surprised .... Opens up a whole new dimension to your speakers. (yes yes , trying to "racun" you also).

mugenfoo
post Apr 6 2009, 10:40 AM

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hahahahahahaha !
mugenfoo
post Apr 6 2009, 02:05 PM

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of course tongue.gif tongue.gif tongue.gif besides those with awful slew-rates as well.



QUOTE(Y.C. @ Apr 6 2009, 12:12 PM)
Thanks bro.  tongue.gif
Still at conception that if amps are not full "high-current", they must be lazy and boring?  laugh.gif
On a side note, music through vinyl playback within the same system is very much alive and enjoyable. For CD playback, culprit could be the source or I should experiment with other cables. The sheer transparency of the mere 10W T-amp fitted with a discreet attenuator is hard to match.

Enjoy the music. Cheers.  biggrin.gif
*
mugenfoo
post Apr 7 2009, 10:07 AM

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QUOTE(Y.C. @ Apr 6 2009, 05:30 PM)
Heheheh, I know where this is heading, so I refrain from commenting. I'll instead quote a comment made by another forumer at a another thread in another forum altogether, his views I could not have better worded them:

"There must be no challenge to sound and its engineering. It must be an exercise on aesthetics of music reproduction using each one's own means in best possible balance. Everything has to stay under some defined concept. For instance, real engineers know how to make very linear circuits, and know how to eliminate capacitive coupling, noise, IMD. They have a concept. To challenge Audio Precision and HP gear limits. They do that and make great machines that our heads spin 5 minutes after they begin to explain how they work. But then again a Japanese guy pops up with a handful of tubes, and a 1940's measurement results level. But he has listened hard, and he is a craftsman with great aesthetics. We listen, and many of us feel our heart touched. He has a concept too. Soul moving sound. Each device and part to its own merit, each man to his own wits, abilities, concept and system. In natural procession all find friends or indifferently getting passed by. Circuitry polemics I find boring and non noble at all. It's a hobby to us. We must leave the rest to professional interests."

icon_rolleyes.gif
*
wah ... very deep ...

i much prefer the Wendy's tagline: "Where's the beef? " smile.gif smile.gif smile.gif


mugenfoo
post May 29 2009, 01:01 AM

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room treatments .....

Ikea has alot of good stuff for sonic diffusion, if you have an inkling of what to look for.

I use an assortment of roomtunes, basstraps, those locally made copycat RPG Skyline diffusors, and Ikea stuff like bamboo blinds, curtains and rugs/carpets.


Added on May 29, 2009, 1:01 am
QUOTE(hushymushy @ May 28 2009, 01:19 PM)
any cheaper room tuning stuffs?
*
Ikea smile.gif


Added on May 29, 2009, 1:05 am
QUOTE(car_o_scope @ May 28 2009, 11:27 PM)
We have to use mirror to find out the tweeter position?
*
yup... to cut out the 1st order reflection. Crucial for tweeters since their high frequencies tend to reflect like laser beams . So a diffusor at those strategic locations will scatter the 1st reflection order from interfering the direct tweeter sounds to your ears.


Do it, not only for the side walls, but also the floor and ceilings too .. if you're really anal about 1st order reflections.





This post has been edited by mugenfoo: May 29 2009, 01:05 AM
mugenfoo
post May 30 2009, 11:05 AM

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QUOTE(car_o_scope @ May 29 2009, 08:10 AM)
I have a carpet on the floor, absorption foam at the back of speakers and behind listening position.

Not yet purchase any diffuser as i had no idea which is the best position until i saw auronthas' photo.

Any of you tried putting the triangular bass traps at ceiling corners?
*
Carpet on floor is very good.


Here's a school of thought ... try not to put anything too absorby (yeah i just made this word up) behind the speakers (aka front wall). But put foams and stuff at the back wall instead. The whole idea is that let the speaker pairs excite the front portion of the room to present a big and generous sound-stage towards you. Best speaker placement is when u get superb focus, and the "disappearance" of the speakers' individual presence (this one really really really hard to do). Then all u get is the depth and height and overall soundstage effect.


Yeah i got triangluar pillows (CornerTunes™ ) at the ceiling corners but i doubt if they do anything to absorb much bass. Its more for stereo imaging enhancement only.

If you have bass boom problems, the most effective "acoustic tuning" device would be to place a BIG FAT LONG COUCH behind your listening position. Guaranteed to work wonders. The more foam and padded the couch is, the more bass absorbing effectiveness it is. Then having tube-traps at the rear corners also helps to cut out more peaky booms. But too much of these bass traps can also create a suckout effect in the mid to upper bass regions. So use them sparingly. Bigger tube traps isn't always the best.

For ceiling treatment, try placing those styrofoam diffusors (RPG Skylines). This will make the room seem larger than its physical dimensions without overdamping the sound too much. Same goes for the sidewalls.

Hifi listening rooms should not be dead-sounding unlike recording studios. A well-tuned live-sounding listening room is an absolute joy to listen to. And this has the biggest effect on your hi-fi system , even more than the hardware themselves.


Added on May 30, 2009, 11:13 am
QUOTE(auronthas @ May 29 2009, 05:53 PM)
I hope the following link is helpful for your room acoustic treatment.

Real Traps - How to ...

I read somewhere that a smaller room need more room treatment due sound waves (long wavelength - low frequency) tends to bounce back/reflect compared to larger room.

Auronthas
*
... and the right material for treatment as well.

For example, to control bass, you need stuff like heavily padded boxes (Helmholtz resonators) like the RealTrap & BassTube type of stuff.
Different sized traps work more effectively for certain bass frequencies.
Foam pillows won't do much to control bass.

But Foams are superb at cutting down echoes, reflections and mid-to-high freq comb effects and overly excited or long reverb times.


The best way to go about room tuning would be a combo of absorption and diffusion.


Anyone here using Chicken-egg cartons in their listening rooms? tongue.gif

This post has been edited by mugenfoo: May 30 2009, 03:09 PM
mugenfoo
post May 30 2009, 03:25 PM

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QUOTE(car_o_scope @ May 30 2009, 01:15 PM)
I have tried different positions for the absorption foams.
Currently, I put them in this way:

1 at front left corner
1 at front right corner
1 behind left speaker
1 behind right speaker
2 behind listening position

I also have book racks at both side of the walls in the middle of the room.

I could not apply tube traps for the corners behind the listening position as the door is too near.  sad.gif

Oh ya.. are the CornerTunes affordable stuffs?
*
ok .. to be honest, i'd have to listen to your room to really hear and see what might work and what doesn't
But since we are all self-professed gurus in the forums et al, i might as well try and derive some fun out of it as well. icon_rolleyes.gif

First of all, what seems to be your room's sonic problem ? too much bass? too little bass? too bright ? too dull? Can't seem to get stereo imaging in focus ? Compressed soundstage ?


If u wanna try out the CornerTunes™ , do check out http://www.michaelgreenaudio.com
The site is kinda old .. and i'm not sure if that guy's still in business, but you'd get some ideas from there. You might be abl to find some s/hand stuff of these at hi-fi forums or similar.




mugenfoo
post May 31 2009, 10:11 AM

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QUOTE(car_o_scope @ May 30 2009, 10:04 PM)
It is OK.. We are just doing trial and error.
I think it is good to share info among members in this forum.

I guess I have problems with the room dimensions as it is almost squarish. (11.5ft x 12ft)
But I am not giving up in getting the best out of it.
I am not convinced that I cant improve it.  biggrin.gif

I can feel the reduction in boomy bass after putting in the foams.
Some of those small instruments can be heard now, though minimal.

Alright.. back to the questions.
I feel that the sound stage is still alright but I endure boomy bass and also the clarity.

I am using some songs to do comparisons for my experiments.
Boomy bass = Aaron Neville & Linda Ronstadt (Close Your Eyes)
Clarity = Stacey Kent & Jim Tomlinson (So Nice) saxophone part
Some songs really have no boomy issue at all.  rclxub.gif
*
Ohhhh.... i see... u got an almost square room huh ..... ok ok ... lets see now.

OK, 1st things 1st .... i assume that your listening axis is along the length of the room.

Speaker placement .... make sure they are at least 3 ft. from any walls. Your listening sweet spot should about close to the centre of the room.

The reason that I recommend u start with this placement is:
1) the "near field"-style placement would be best to minimize the square room's colouration on your system
2) U got ample space the treat the room walls (and ceiling as well, if the height is also close to 11~12ft.)

The bass from AN&LR-CloseYourEyes are pretty much upper-mid bass only. Not much low freqs below50Hz. And i would suspect that speaker to sidewall placement would be key in solving it. Following the above "near-field" placement method, try to also angle-in your speakers until you can see the speakers' outer side-cabinet from your listening position. This would also help improve your focus alot and also reduce boominess as the speakers' woofers would be exciting the room at extreme angles. This usually means very extreme toe-in angles of more than 30degrees. Looks weird. But might sound very good in your case.

As for treatments.... lots and lots of padding at the side and rear walls. Would suggest that you treat about 2/3 of your sidewalls with a combo of diffusors and absorbers. Leave the 1/3 of the sidewall space clean ... and this 1/3 section should be at the speaker-end. At about middle of the side walls, go with diffusors ... (like RPG Skyline Styrofoam, or even hanging some Ikea bamboo or wood blinds are good). Then as you progress towards the rear end (closer towards backwall) of the sidewall, more absorby stuff. Plant some basstubes or rolled foam tubes at the rear corners. They would work as bass cavity traps to reduce bass boom caused by acoustic corner loading.

Directly behind your listening position, try having 2 large bean bags (and i mean BIG!) to the left and right. You can move the bean bags closer or further apart and see how the bass and even overall soundstage changes. You can also move them further back away, and this might help to tame some troublesome bass-booms too.

Backwall: hang some thick drapes or maybe even chicken-egg cartons / or similar, (floor to ceiling) would be good. Basically you wanna make your backwall seem further away acoustically. Cubpoards, bookshelves (with lots of books), cabinets (no glass panels) , etc etc at the backwall would be good.

happy furniture-moving & room-tuning.


This post has been edited by mugenfoo: May 31 2009, 12:42 PM
mugenfoo
post Jun 1 2009, 12:17 AM

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QUOTE(car_o_scope @ May 31 2009, 06:26 PM)
Bro etteoh,
It is very unfortunate that I have not purchased the stuffs for ceiling corners.
I am still looking for them.

Right guys..
I moved out my speakers and toed it in until I see the outside wall of the speakers.
If calculate from middle of speaker, they are now 3ft from rear and side walls.
I also moved out my couch a few inches from the wall.

1st impression:
Reduced the boominess by some but still can hear a fairly bit of them.
Surprised that the sound stage also being improved.
But can feel the equipments are there and not 'invisible' nor 'disappeared'.
*
Good, your boom is reduced.

If your speakers are about 6 ft apart.. thats good. Near field means you should sit closer than 8 ft from your speakers.. Maybe try 7 or even 6.5ft. Maintain the extreme toe-in.

Since your room is almost square, don't bother too much to make the speakers "disappear". You'll need an entirely new room for that, or extreme room treatments that will make your room look like a confinement cell in Tg. Rambutan "Hospital Bahagia".

Moving your listening sweet spot away from the backwall will also help reduce the bass exaggeration. Since bass notes are strongest when u sit closer to the wall especially the backwall.

Ceiling corners are a pain. Unless u are so hardcore to hang some basstubes aka BassTraps™ or RealTraps™ panels there .... I'd say don't bother. Just treating the floor corners will suffice already. The RoomTune CornerTunes™ are not meant to fix bass problems but more for spatial control only.


Here's another trip u can try. Angle your speakers up abit . Give them a 1 to 3 degree toe-up. Might be good, or not. I dunno. But it's free to experiment and part of the fun of getting your system to sing. U can also vary your sitting/listening position too. You might notice that the perceived bass booms change as you sit higher or lower from the floor.

Experiment, experiment & experiment... and have fun too.

Good luck !



p.s. By this experience, we all can see how good speaker placement can bring the biggest effect to a hi-fi system. Even more than a RM20,000 speaker cable or interconnect can ever hope to achieve.






mugenfoo
post Jun 1 2009, 05:38 PM

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QUOTE(car_o_scope @ Jun 1 2009, 04:37 PM)
I guess my speakers distances from rear and side walls need to tune again.
It doesn't comply with the ratio given in the Cardas website.

I hope the mad bass will be gone for good.
It is so uncomfortable for long hours of listening.

I have no idea how to use SPL meter yet.
Is it easy to use?

By the way, I have attached a file of my room.
I just roughly draw but the arrangements are in correct places.
Please give comments. 

[attachmentid=998506]
*
I've tried using the Cardas ratios ... it didn't work for me .
Soundstage was really crap when i follow the Cardas rules.


But no harm trying....



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