hand must move like taichi master... :lol
start spraying from one side to one side.. google for more youtube video on spraying tutorials...

haven't done dis, but heard fr some top malaysian sifu, after buffing the mr.metallic, topcoat with waterbase topcoat (blue label can spray).
expected to loose some shine but it can protect the scratch/touch..

u want shine shine but not the weak bond of mr.metal?
try gunze's mr. super metallic, but price tag 3 times more expensif..
can get fr HHQ..

super gloss finish never accomplish by airbrushing alone.
no matter how skillful or powerful handpiece or compressor u have.

a gloss finish is usually attained wt good combination of smooth and good paint coverage.

polishing and waxing will futher bring the depth and gloss of the finishing.
airbushing jus never stop there to get u the showroom shine u wanted.

i spent nearly 2 years on and off reading and experimenting just to understand the basics in getting high gloss finishing.

read more here:
http://italianhorses.net/Publications/MC/E...nt/Image-10.jpg
http://italianhorses.net/Publications/MC/E...nt/Image-11.jpg
http://italianhorses.net/Publications/MC/E...nt/Image-12.jpg
http://italianhorses.net/Publications/MC/E...nt/Image-13.jpg

understood this thread is kinda lengthy for newbie who is more keen to spend time on actual kits than reading in front monitors..

before u wanted to learn anything.. always.. always..
read this one 1st if u haven't.. (u shud have i guessed)
http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/488910

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Added on November 27, 2008, 5:06 pmgetting back to ur questions..
well.. depend wat suites to ur need;

1) most of us will snap-fit our kit, painting or not it's a matter of when time allow us to do so.
bear in mind an MG kit requires somewhere from 2-3 weeks and can last up to 1-2 months (if u r rili one bz fella) to complete painting.. so i snap-fit the kit i want 1st and find when free then start painting
2) fix figuration is almost a figure, with movable parts and detachable armors, it doesnt allow u to "build the kit from runner". so it's diff. i like snap-fitting so i choose model kit.
3) money
u can spent min or alot depend again how u gonna spent ur money for tools, paints, not to mention airbrush handpiece and compressor. but i spent more on paints, thinners and disposable tools. airbrush n compressor is just one time investment.

so, u decide wat u wanna do after u snap-fit lor.

This post has been edited by erh_teo: Nov 27 2008, 05:06 PM

kenot be his pic, unless he is azizol aka hyakushiki84

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Added on November 28, 2008, 10:07 amfor ball joint with pc joint (polycap joint) stormfury's method will works > BALL JOINT (esp those groin joint)
but for male peg with female pc, the male peg might got stuck and break > ROD JOINT (esp those elbow joint)

so for ROD joint, u may wan the supergle dry outside before putting back into the pc joint. less is more. sometimes a few drop will do the trick.

This post has been edited by erh_teo: Nov 28 2008, 10:07 AM

depends, some experience modeller straight cut, sand, paint then assemble.
for rookie like me, it's always safe to test the "water" 1st.
y? if u encounter difficulty during assembling time, most prob u miss insert something or snap the wrong parts u will definitely get the paint scratch.

it's rili up to ur taste and standard dude.
again there's so many guys here willing to spent at least up to 3-4 mg kit every once and every month but complain that the only one time investment for airbrush n compressor is expensif.
airbrush + handpiece, to be safe let say it's around 650 to get a decent set to begin with. that's like only 5-6 mg kit (prob 4-6 months no buying kit)
some ppl go for quantity some go for quality.
for me, it's good to be somewhere in between.

if u believe snap fit collections are not ur taste, it's time to consider whether u wanna do more kits or just stop at where u r.
unlike cars or bikes, gunpla requires many color parts and can spray can't fulfil ur needs.
unless u r willing to spent time to learn handpaint, some ppl just stick to the easiest way.
sand, lining and top coat. it may look less complete but nonetheless it's still better looking than snap-fit dry kit..

i oso having hardtime looking for this thing locally.
online shop for making fairy dolls carries them, but i lost the link. if buying on9 is ur option, look for sites making and selling stuffs to make fairy butterfly dolls

got mr.thinner why wanna use tamiya thinner. if i'm u i dun wan risk my thinner and paint. damn those paint gonna increase 1/3 next year still wanna waste paint meh

all the ratio they give u is correct but problem wt surfacer is they tend to dry tooooo thick.
the same ratio may not apply when it work for a new bottle of surfacer 1000 compare to an old thicken bottle.
again, follow the milk-thickness consistency as suggested. the paint shud flow when properly thin like milk.
if it's over-thin, it will looked too thin, less opaque (like semi transparent)

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Added on December 2, 2008, 12:47 pm1) keep trying, the ratio is somewhere around there, 50:50 to 40:60
2) for single color and broad area spraying, the problem more lies on ur thinning rather than equipment fault.
3) invest for a proper compressor wt handpiece la bro.. ard 650 can get u a decent set liao

apa lu mau tunjuk bro.. apa pun tarak nampak, tak tau u fail apa la



This post has been edited by erh_teo: Dec 2 2008, 12:47 PM

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Added on December 3, 2008, 9:55 amdo u rili need to get ppl to help u on evereything???
those transparent stickers i dont see any difficulty in appyling them. if u got broad clumpsy fingers use a tweezer may help.
otherwise i suggest u pay a trip to Time Machine see they got stock of unicorn waterslide decals. that is a much better option

This post has been edited by erh_teo: Dec 3 2008, 09:55 AM

clay can be anytype but mostly widespread use in modelling is the modelling clay (that need to be baked for harden it).
search in wikipedia, there's too many i oso cant describe.
i can only tell u clay is for scupting works. try wikipedia for modelling clay.

putty can be from tamiya or gunze
see here:
http://www.hlj.com/hljlist2/?Dis=-2&from=d...chpage=top_page

pla-plate is sheets of plastic, the same PS plastic that make ur gundam kit. use to do modification works such as the pic u shown earlier of hi-nu gundam

here:
http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/392450

xl-shop
time machine
Miniature Hobby
AF Hobby

or online:
HLJ
Rainbow ten
HobbySearch

local hobby online:
www.hobbiescorner.com
http://z4.invisionfree.com/mgs/

thinner n water doesnt mix like oil wt water.
(u see properly there's droplet inside, that's call emulsion, if it's mix u'll see 1 clear layer of lquid)
so answer is NO.
just get mr.thinner for the proper thinner for "thinning" ur paint.
industrial paints are for cleanup jobs.


edwardgsk...
rayloke already mentioned in his earlier post.
compound = abrassive compound that worked like fine fine sandpaper
it's like asking, sandpaper got color r? can use after finsih my paint job?
say if the finest sandpaper u can get is 2000#, compound is like 2000# to 10,000# depending the grade u getting.

i'm sorry.. i didnt get ur question..

wash as in the sense of cleaning it or u mean "panel wash" (panel lining)?

if it's for cleaning purpose of course b4 painting.

for more modding works pls look into more forums like hkml, plamo or local one like zero g.
lowyat here is really to help newcomers. flooding this thread wt modding questions bring newcomers nowhere but hell.

visit more, see more, try more.. u'll b there one day.
there's no harm drooling at ppl's work but sometimes it makes abit of sacrifies as well..


gathering.. go to the link rayloke posted.


cheers and happy modelling!!!

if u r using air canisters then i suggest u go with somewat between 1/3 to 2/3 parts surfacer, probably like say 55-60% surfacer 40-45% thinner. if u r satisfied wt ur earlier 67% surfacer, go ahead.

usu if u r using air compressor (no limited air:)) it will be easier to handle 1/3 (surfacer/thinner) ratio. the one time go cover everytime might be bit rough. feel with ur fingers u'll know wat i mean.

to counter the 1/3 less opaque, spray another layer, it shud be fine.

remember, painting is to "provide" color to ur kit, NOT COVER UR KIT WITH PAINT.
u want all though nice nice details n panel still visible, go with minimum thin amount but thick enuf just to cover the base color (grey primer).

no problem, no need address as sir..

we are here just to share share ma...

compressor not working? getting new one? y not sent for repair/checking see what's the problem b4 getting new one?

u want satisfactory results, hobby thinner like those fr tamiya or mr.thinner.

u r not perfectionist, k.. can use industrial thinner fr hardware.
just be aware as some are stronger some milder.. should be ok if use for mist spray application sparingly..
scare screw up, try on scrap plastics.
never apply industrial thinner full strength in wet coat.
ur plastic will melt/soften...

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Added on December 17, 2008, 3:48 pmu want something to replace mr.thinner, work exactly like it, yes, probably gaia thinner (fr gaianotes).. cost more or less or just slightly cheaper.
problem is availability around hobby shops here (KL).

if ur hardware industrial thinner can work as satisfactory as hobby thinner, then those shelf won't b always out of stock of hobby thinner.. that's all i can say...

This post has been edited by erh_teo: Dec 17 2008, 03:48 PM

edloh2k, u r right, turpentine can never mix wt mr.color.
but siang89 mentioned he used mr.hobby color.
in fact we all aware the side effect of using turpoentine.
since mr.hobby color is actually water-based, it's better if use alcohol or methylated spirit, or distilled water oso can.

for washing, it's best using hobby enamel thinner for enamel wash (humbrol or tamiya)

u can use zebra type thinner for ab, but just becafeful, it can melt plastic.
if u are very familiar wt ab, somethings use sparingly and it can save u for money.
while since i dun have good results wth zebra or other industrial thinner, i stil stick back to mr.thinner/leveling thinner:)
i use zebra only for washing brush/cleaning prupose..

well... can't blame those who tried alternatives..

believe it or not.. not all people stock up their paint and thinner well..
so unfortunate hobby thinner well just out of stock and u can be waiting for weeks and weeks by time the restock.. worse, with newer (more) expensif price...

i'm sorry.. btw boltguard, wat is a real touch marker...?
n definitely.. wat tips r u looking forwards eh?
use marker oso need tips ka?

so.. u r using it to fill panel lines is it?
the effect is smudgy either those panel not deep enuf and u have to have awhile for halfdried otherwise those wet ink inside the panel will come out as well..