i think i know wat u wanted to ask.
sadly, most ppl wanted to ask things and they just keep doing the same thing asking same questions which the other reader thought it has been answered.

u shud take the initiave to show some pic to ask what u wanted to be assisted off.

jus a google away u've prob able to get ur hands off handful of pic.

enuf of my irritating lectures..

lets see..



u'll see 2 types of lining, type 1 and type 2.
i think ppl here thought u ask about type 1 lining which is a very common lining where u draw the lining and clean off the excess/overdrawn area. due to the sunken panel, u will likely to retain the ink in the "panel" leaving a clean line.

type 2 lining is a bit of tricky where u r attempting to draw a line around "corners". there is no panel or groove.
when u clean up access ink, it simply gone all.
u have two options:
1st get a 0.02mm markers from the brand copic markers. (search urself if u don't what's dat )
2ndly.. u need to create those panel/groove like those in type 1 lining, which means.. re-scribing. then use method type 1 lining to solve ur problem.

obviously 2nd option is not recommended for newbies and my advise is just get the super fine tip 0.02mm copic markers and just do the lining around the corners.

This post has been edited by erh_teo: Jan 2 2009, 02:15 PM

dat's why ppl use diluted enamel paint (usually) and paint wt brush.
just a touch onto the panel, the ink will flow into the panels. clean up excess with small amount of turpentine.

if u paint only on bare unpainted plastics, just get some acrylic paint and dilute with hobby thinner until like watery, use fine tip brush and touch the lining and clean up with hobby thinner.

wat type (acrylic or enamel) oso no problem if use on bare plastics, use enamel if u paint wt acrylics.

if u don't mind ugly thick panels, just finish off wt gundam marker lor... :lol

the topcoat steps is a preparation steps for lining (washing) & decalling.
if u can prep up ur mr.color paint coat perfectly smooth, u basically dun have to topcoat.
if u cincai topcoat and ur preparation layer is still unsmooth.. it's pointless anyway as u might encounter some lining and decalling problem (silvering)..

itu dia ada keluar mah.. gundam color, (with the box of infinite justice)
but the color code name very weird.. like "red (02)"
so i couldn't tell how or wat color is that. the box came wt 3 colors, pinkish maroon, purple, dark grey
got mine fr famitoys..

definitely all paint that comes in bottle needs thinning whether for hand painting or airbrushing..

but.. hand painting is no easy job, in which mastery requires more effort compare to airbrushing.

have not tried on full-scale (whole kit) handpainting, but as far as i know correctly.. u'll need to thin the paint alot, and work with at least few layers to get a nice coverage which is not too thick that cover surface details..

why ar?
not mix and paint meh?
mixing paint for handpainting and mixing colors for AB got diff ka?

i mean this "From my experience hand painting has a very limited option of color and need quite a number of rules to apply or else it will mess up in the end."

sorry that now only i realised i quoted my own post. i'm referring ur post

got limited color option meh?
for hand paint or airbrush i stil mix and use the same way mah...

diff. those gundam color, despite flat top, see properly, it's labeled as "Mr.Color".
those water base is "Mr.Hobby Color".
so Mr Gundam Colors have to use thinner.

tak tau.. can't seem to identify that part u talking... sori...

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Added on January 12, 2009, 12:34 pmpaint wash technique talks about paint compatibilty.
as long as the type of paint for lining does "not react with underneath paint", u just need to clean up outside panel line for a clean crisp line. coz some tiny panel, pen tip cant go in so use wash.
nothing to do with pro or not

i saw the quote "sm-02", i guess it's a gunze's maziora paint, it's mixed with other paint so i'm not sure how it will look.
look at the paint code, try ur luck google see u'll the result not (pic)
can't help much

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Added on January 12, 2009, 12:34 pmfor mr.lazy.
use gunze water based can spray (blue label) is very safe and easy to use. only becarefull not spray too thick coz it will "frost" (got white patches like ice frost effect). i sugest u try on scrap plastic with spare decals to try on the 1st hand experience for best control.
grey label is solvent based, if u spray too thick it might affect ur decals.
my guess it Mr. Super Clear Flat is "grey label", so try get the blue one.
the pinned tutorial by vincc454 has some pic samples.


it's some other color series fr gunze, try google for "gunze maziora paint"

This post has been edited by erh_teo: Jan 12 2009, 12:34 PM

if i say no, wat u donna do?
if i say yes, u'll prob end up wt ugly streaks of gold like wat u'd expect to see coloring wt markers.
if u don't own an airbrush, it's best paint wt can spray. brush painting with metallic is tough.
those marker is for you to use for highlight/color small parts.
get a can spray of gold paint, that wud be ur best option if u want to paint that part in gold with minimum fuss.

no problem

i tried but unsuccessful as well.. well, maziora by gunze it's very rare to found, malaysia.. not a chance.
try chamellion paint, maziora paint, or flip flop paint u'll get something similar fr other paint manufacturers.
anyway.. a can of gold spray just save the mess

alclad 2 lacquer ?
u can try HHQ (Hobby HQ)
here:
Address: 52-1 (TKT 1), Jalan Metro Pudu, Fraser BIZ Park, 55100, KL

Telephone number: 603-92238588, 603-92239588

u can find gold marker but not gold paint
my advise is get hobby type as it sprays thinner.
or get industrial one but bear with the less-attractive gold colors or the thick paint. if u necessary have to, get one and try it out somethere. if u like the effect, go with it

no problem

i rather not knowing the cheaper alternatives.. makes me feel like a lollipop sucker liao

saw the paint code (SM-02), then i suspect it's maziora.. not really promote la..


v-hunter, can try MH at pj section 14 (check out the pinned thread on toys & hobby shop for the address)



Kouichi..
ur question is like.. if i start playing badminton, must i buy a yonex racquet or any brand that i can grab at Mydin store.
of course, it all comes with experience and skill to come out something nice, but surely "it" performs differently. hope u understand the "must to use" term.
the choice simply up to u

then the maziora not using "SM" prefix coding meh??

yaya.. baru semalam check.

confirm it's CM

wat paint u applied?
(i kena before, marker under primer still have "shadow", it's very sad )
if u use acrylic (Mr. hobby or tamiya), try use window cleaner aka windex, any brand will do.
if u use mr.color, try brake oil "dot3" (i haven't try myself by i've read few sucess stories b4)
if u use can spray, most prob ur last hope is brake oil.
one of my fren tried brake oil, it didnt work so u still have to try urself.
brake oil may coz some brittleness of ur plastic.

if u rili need to save ur kit, then rub with hobby thinner but it's a nighmare

---

Added on January 20, 2009, 4:30 pmmr.base white is to give a "white foundation" before u paint other colors.
so the color u paint later will be "original". esp, white, yellow, red or light colors.
if u paint straight on plastic (other than white) or primer (grey), ur color coat may be a bit darker than wat u want.
and mr.base white is not a primer, it's diff from primer coz does not has the durability of a primer. it's just a foundation color.
"WHITE SURFACER (white primer)" is available if u wanna prime ur kit in white but only available in can spray.
mr. base white has advantage over normal mr.color white as it's a lacquer, and more opaque and sticks better.
u need to prime wt normal surfacer (1000 or 1200) before u apply base white.
dark colors, black or metallic colors not affected if applied straight on grey primer.


same.
but if u use enamel for painting, u won't wanna use back enamel for lining.
the purpose people use enamel wash over lacquer/acrylic is bcoz enamel thinner does not harm it.
so u can clean up the messy line without affecting ur painted color.

u don't have to use those wat. i see many people use acylic drybrushing/enamel wash for weathering.
those markers are hard to get and expensive.
just my 2 cents

This post has been edited by erh_teo: Jan 20 2009, 04:30 PM

err.. i didn't answer ur question though
but if it's regarding the mr.base white, sorry if i meant to correct ur post.
i too been wandering long wat was the diff of using mr. base white as to using other alternatives.
u know, it's a waste if i get something redundant and GSI certainly has their reason to market mr.base white.
i forgot where i got the explanations but somehow i'm cleared now of it's usage

weathering is a bit tough, dun ask me coz i'm not military guy..
but a quite search through armor/military modelling might helps..
it's not relying on material but oso reference and technique.

u might wanna try this:
http://z12.invisionfree.com/ScaleModelsMal...dex.php?act=idx

it's ok man

ray already mentioned, try HHQ
search back 2-3 pages back i think i tried to answer similar questions b4, or u can click "Show posts by this member only" at my post, will show all the post i posted in this thread, easier to find it

got pic, i supposed it has an air tank?
the specs should be ok.
or try this fella, from sunway (KL/PJ)
http://mgs2u.com/index/


taukeh.. itu mr.hobby color is water based, turpentine is oil-based, that's y it wont mix ma
u need to get either tamiya enamel or humbrol to work with turpentine/oil wash method.
weathering shud stay but it's still better to topcoat for further protection dude.

last part i dun get u.. u dun plan to paint ur kit?

anyway, a ref to ur weathering without painting will look like this:
http://plamo.outthere.info/forum/showthread.php?tid=5053

happy modelling

dunno oso..

pic not that clear of the "flaked" part. is it paint lifting off when u pull the blue tac?

i knw:
mr.hobby color easier to chip/flake than mr.color
no primer or unclean painted/bare plastic easier to chip
blue tac new one prob easier to coz chipping.

i tried blue tac masking on my 144 plane no problem wor.
i primed my kit as usual, i sprayed mr.color, thin layer, use old blue tac (with many paint residue ), masked paint, pull out, ok wor..

yess. flat coat will flatten/frost clear parts. either assemble the clear parts later or mask the clear parts.
if u spray clear part black then flat-coat it, it will be flat black.
of course it can be done, but is that what u wanted ?

if u use cautiously and dun over-spray, the grey type in fact will give a more durable finishing than the blue type one.

just becareful.

of the black part with one section of clear, i've no idea how it looks like.. so couldn't comment much..