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Model Kits Model Kits/Toys Painting, Building, Modding Thread, where the 'deja-vu are tradition in here

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erh_teo
post Apr 15 2009, 04:33 PM

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QUOTE(dante3 @ Apr 15 2009, 04:17 PM)
may i know where EXACTLY is Hobby HQ?  Who got the shops tel no?
I know its in Fraser Business Center Jalan Tun Razak 1st Floor as stated in toy lists topic. however...there are tons of shoplots there, and i cant find Hobby HQ banner or any Hobby logo at all, i circled there 2 times, used up 1 hour everytime...keep circling the whole blocks..cant find it...its hidden underground base or what?
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If you have a GPS, it's at

N 03º07.707
E 101º42.801

Added on April 15, 2009, 4:35 pmtongue.gif

look for this shop
user posted image
photo shamlessly stolen from silantra from smm

Added on April 15, 2009, 4:42 pmthe shop is exactly facing jln loke yew (the fly over across jln sg. besi).
if u enter fraser biz center fr jln tun razak/jln sg. besi it will be harder to find.
but if u enter Fraser biz center once u exit from the loke yew/jln sg.besi roundabout, it's very obvious once u turn in.

This post has been edited by erh_teo: Apr 15 2009, 04:42 PM
erh_teo
post Apr 20 2009, 06:29 PM

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if it's plastic, use thinned cement.
the bonding will be more elastic.

hold the 2 broken piece together, let the thin cement sip through the gap.
wait for 5-8seconds, press the two broken parts together.
if can held it in press position for few hours.


confirm stronger than super glue, and resist cracks.
erh_teo
post Apr 23 2009, 05:57 PM

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if u are doing that make sure u are using Mr.thinner.
u don't want to spoil the whole new bottle of paint.

for handpaint, try to mix ur thinned mr.color wt Mr.Retarder (orange cap)
erh_teo
post Apr 29 2009, 02:16 PM

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as far as i know xl.shop and auntie lenny (glory system enterprice provide airbrushing commission for gundams and other kits)
what is your subject to be airbrushed?

or u can post in garage sales, commisioning modeller for ur build...
erh_teo
post May 4 2009, 05:54 PM

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preferable last step after u've done panel-lining, decals, etc..

usually as last steps. make sure u mask off/ assemble parts that are not flat only after flat coat.
erh_teo
post May 5 2009, 01:26 PM

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i use mr.surfacer, then mr.color (spray very thin layer).
i mask in 20mins no problem..

ur problems are associated wt industrial no-so-competitive alternatives..
industrial paint are generally thicker thus they tend to crack and peel more often.
try changing to hobby supply equivalents..
same goes for masking tape.
if u can't get those.. try to loosen a bit of the stickiness of the masking tape b4 use...
erh_teo
post May 6 2009, 11:19 AM

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make sure ur airbrush is thoroughly cleaned before u put to storage.
if got stuck, u gotta dismantle and clean it up.
prob an ultrasonic cleaner with ease clean up more tongue.gif


for mr.color paint, no worries.. just pour some mr.thinner and leave for days..
it will soften and re-melts the paint.
u better worry if u cant open the bottle laugh.gif
erh_teo
post May 7 2009, 11:37 AM

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if he's not refering to tamiya's acrylics laugh.gif
those once "locked" are damn hard to open..

u need hot water to loosen the harden paint at the cap... :-)
erh_teo
post May 12 2009, 03:59 PM

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try wet sanding, ie. while u sand, add few drops of water.
white not that obvious.
scratch marks gets obvious wt balck or dark-colored plastics.

get those nail polishing stick at pharmacy or guardians, but becareful coz the highest grid not only removes scratches, it may cause the plastic to look shiny too.. (if u over-smoothen it)
erh_teo
post May 13 2009, 10:25 AM

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u can, but make sure u add few drops of detergent water (not detergent straighaway, diluted one)..
otherwise it won't flow along the panels..
make sure to top-coat in thin layers..
erh_teo
post May 13 2009, 04:51 PM

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QUOTE(davelcm @ May 13 2009, 12:35 PM)
why that detergent advise so familiar wan? tongue.gif
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ya hor.. sounds so fresh like 4 days ago only.. whistling.gif

Added on May 13, 2009, 4:52 pm
QUOTE(raidenVT @ May 13 2009, 01:21 PM)
y in thin layers? too thick will affect lining? blink.gif
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yes, david is right, just in case.. coz poster color only "dry" not "cured"..
i'm just worry ur lining might got smear if u wack thick coat at one go.. blush.gif

This post has been edited by erh_teo: May 13 2009, 04:59 PM
erh_teo
post May 14 2009, 02:08 PM

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try put a bit (thin thin thin layer) of superglue on the plastic rod/ball part.
once dried, try put into the rubber cap. it should tighten abit.
if not tight enough, try layer one more round. that should do the job.
anymore more u are risking a overtighten joint and might break the plasic..
erh_teo
post May 15 2009, 10:39 AM

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QUOTE(hellforce @ May 15 2009, 09:39 AM)
Mr Sifu and prof .

I'm new on painting and i have a unicorn gundam

i plan to spray my gundam with white pearl from tamiya and maybe getting some painting to for the battling gun i bought.

i have already prepare
1. white pearl spray
2. 1000 and 1500 tamiya sand paper
3. modelling tools knife , cutter and etc
4. Colors for the battling gun ( waiting for sifu to recommend paint or spray can)
5. Will buy the zippo thinner and brushes if paint needed

my inq here is that
    A.) Do i need to apply mr surfacer after i sanding my gundam
    B.) Do i need to apply coating after i sprayed white pearl
    C.) if coating need to be applied , do i apply decal 1st or after the coating ? 
    D.) i have experience with the sticker like decal when time goes by it will eventually droped. Any way to prevent that?
    E.) For the gun do you recommend me to get the paint water based /or acrylic 1 or just grab from tamiya spray can =X but then cannot play with color >.<
    F.) I planed to paint some of the pcs with marker and do some lining. like the backpack and the horn or unicorn LOL . Do do it before i paint with white pearl or after?

Emmm did i miss any important thing to start ah =X

your superb advice is very very very much appreciated tongue.gif
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my advise may not be superb, but some simple answers to help if can

A) up to u, basically surfacer to check for mistakes, if ur plastic is free from scratches no need prime. primed kits are a bit more resistant to scratch but not 100% scratchproof still. so it's really up to u, physically they serve u no obvious different after u spray wt pearl white.

B) refer C)

C) need to apply decals before top coat. again refer D)

D) there 2 types stickers/decal given, one if the peel-off which is really a STICKER, the other is a "dry-transfer" where u rub on to let go the printings. do TOP COAT to protect the decals. for sticker it's kinda thick and advised to trim some of the transparent edge so they don't look so ugly. keep the sticker clean fr ur oily fingers as little as possible as it will coz lost of adhesiveness.

E) get spray can if u got no confident in hand brush. if u can take challenge, practise ur hand brush on some other unwanted kit parts 1st before u attempt to hand paint ur unicorn.

F) after u paint white of course.
erh_teo
post May 18 2009, 06:07 PM

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bro.. u may want to search for "washing", inking, or panel lining in this thread.
use the search topic button, ur type of questions may have been asnwered earlier.. doing so gives u quicker answers and u'll prob learn more about it in details.. smile.gif
erh_teo
post May 22 2009, 03:37 PM

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0.1mm for metal tip.
that is the smallest available for gundam marker.
erh_teo
post Jun 1 2009, 10:28 AM

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QUOTE(unpronunceable @ May 23 2009, 02:20 PM)
anyone knows how to remove dust collected around the clear sticker that comes with master grades?I forgot to topcoat some of my model
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airbrush, blow it with air biggrin.gif

use a soft brush with long hair, brush it off. stubborn dust at tight corner/crevices, use blue tac.

QUOTE(sakurakinomoto @ May 29 2009, 08:33 PM)
What grit do you guys normally use to sand?
Start from 600#, gradually move to 1000 or 1200#
e.g 600, 800, 1000
Wet sand (ie. sanding + water) at 800 grid or higher grid, you'll get lesser scratch marks.
Was wondering cause going to build my first MG.

and also, Oil based marker, based on the sticky, can be rub off using eraser or toothpick?
alcohol, methylated spirit.
eraser on flat surface, tight corner usually can't reach.
toothpick cannot.

What do you guys used to wipe off the oil?
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This post has been edited by erh_teo: Jun 1 2009, 10:29 AM
erh_teo
post Jun 15 2009, 10:33 AM

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QUOTE(zieraq @ Jun 13 2009, 02:29 PM)
I'm planning to paint my kit (handbrush only) by having basic color like red, blue, yellow, black & white, basicly I can have any color I want by mixing them, right? but how to make chrome effect by mixing? is there other stuff need to add in?
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Just to let you know, it's hard to achieve nice chrome/metallic paint finishing by hand brush, either get an airbrush or a spraycan (of chrome/metallic colors).
To explain that "hard", try it you'll know why tongue.gif
erh_teo
post Jun 22 2009, 11:41 AM

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Hi Dr.Cain, I'm not very sure of the addition of matte medium as preventive for paint crack as I don't read Japanese. But as I can read from label, it should be a medium to add to make the paint surface matte/flat rather than gloss.

I do know some acrylic paint (or rather latex) has some elastic properties so it's less to crack than those dried hard lacquers.
I've no brand to recommend so you may search for elastic/latex paints..

I've heard Gaia paints are slightly more resistant to scratches compare Mr.color and it's also more opaque.

Hope that helps smile.gif
erh_teo
post Jul 10 2009, 03:50 PM

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The paint particles in Anchor is still quite coarse, making spraying thin layers resulting in coarse or grainy surface. Not so nice..

For cars, it's still acceptable.

Or if you don't intend to look at your kit upclose.. go ahead.. it's cheap what..

Bear in mind, if you spray tooo thick, even your surfacer/plastic would melt due to the "strong" solvent in the anchor paint.
erh_teo
post Jul 16 2009, 11:41 AM

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QUOTE(richard0304 @ Jul 15 2009, 07:58 PM)
using spray can bro..
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It's the gas coming of from the paint itself.
Since propeller can contain gas, by right it should "gas-out" once release from the can, sometimes it might not has enough time to come out especially in thicker layer. Try thinner layer/or spray further so the gas got time to come out instead of trapping in between layers, that's why you see bubbles forming.

It could be the plastic surface containing chemicals/oils/dirts, make sure you spray on clean plastic/paint layer.

Or.. if the fault comes from the can spray itself, test on a plastic spoon to see if bubbles form or not, if the problem persist, change another can or change to airbrushing instead blush.gif

This post has been edited by erh_teo: Jul 16 2009, 11:42 AM
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