aiyo.. some mecha oso got bling bling one ma..
but yala.. i should have understood ur meaning by then

if u plan to insist using marker, the only way i see it will work is using enamel as base.
then after paint dried use marker to do lining and erase excess with alcohol dip cotton swab.

since u don have enamel, no point.



no point using gundam marker if u expect clean up the excess.
u will need alcohol to clean up and that definitely will affect ur paint layer.

u may try zippo lighter fluid, but i doubt so, it will still leave some residue there.

save all the fuzz, just get enamel if u want to do clean panel line.

as for gundam marker.. u either live with it or u don't.

the key point in performing a clean panel line is the clean up for the paint/ink for panel lining must not react wt ur base paint.

if u happen to find anything that will able to clean up the marker ink/paint but not removing the painted surface, use that.

e.g.
acrylic painted surface
no effect: enamel thinner, turpentine and zippo fluid (affect little bit),
got effect: acrylic thinner, lacquer thinner, mr.thinner, industrial thinner, methylated spirit, windex

lacquer painted surface
no effect: enamel thinner, windex, zippo, turpentine (got little bit), acrylic thinner and methylated spirit got mild effect
got effect: thinner

enamel
no effect: acrylic thinner, windex, methylated and alcohol
got effect: lacquer thinner, enamel thinner, turpentine, zippo

read back dude..

err.. kinda lazy la, i think i myself has been answering this kinda questions for more than 3-4 times d..

use the search topic brader..

keyword = panel lining


water base paint oso got it own uses, but i seldom use for gundam, scratch off too easily... and u can't use lacquer topcoat...

sorry, just realised this is tutorial section, not gallery show off.
i'll pm u the link

---

Added on March 25, 2009, 10:34 amproper paint thinning, prime ur kit, make paint sticks better, correct brush size (0, 00, 000)
last but not least, practise

This post has been edited by erh_teo: Mar 25 2009, 10:34 AM

mm.. brush usually labeled with "shape" and "size"
small small one usually label as "1", "0", "00", "000".
dari mana? u mean get from where? > artshop/stationary..
or.. where is the "label"? usually on the brush lor

the silver i used is just normal mr.color silver.
metallic color got many brand and range.

don't talk about diff shades of metal, just talk about "shine" and "reflectivity"
u want super "shine/bright" silver, get mr. color "super silver" but i forgot the number. HHQ got.
u want "reflective" silver/chrome, get alclad II, from HHQ also.
other things of metallic color will be the color, hue and depth of the "metal".
some can see the bintik-bintik particles, some very very fine..
that's too many

i'm not a fan of LED..
but if u have to..

here:
http://z3.invisionfree.com/Zero_G/index.php?showtopic=5616
by matanglawinX

http://z3.invisionfree.com/Zero_G/index.php?showtopic=5635
by babelii

hahaha... when i read bro ray's comment sure the fella gonna sweat reading it

in short, if u want turn ur surface finishing flat just spray with flat topcoat, it will turn something like the pic u posted.
surfacer will not directly affecting ur surface finishing, coz it's just a base paint.

i'm no chrome nor gold expert.
i would say similar for a laymen's eye, but seriesly nothing close to it.
try it yourself on some other scrap plastic to see if u would please yourself with the effect.

that mr.metal series all buffable and can come off easily.
worse thing is i had it scratch on the white armor (actually not scratch, just touch only).

if topcoat oso cannot help, then no choice lor.
remove with mr.thinner dap in cotton but, slowly rub off then re-prime again lor..


now i only use it to paint/highlight certain rivets or pistons.. bad idea to use on large area.. sure kena one.. prime no prime still will tanggal one..

nothing to do with the primer, it's the mr.metal formula itself i guess.
if u are referring for mr. metal primer, it's transparent.
i tried topcoat oso, more than coz there's a non-scratchable layer on top, but beneath the mr.metal paint itself still give way. if u rub hard, the mr.metal + topcoat come out oso.
maybe a thick coat that covers completely the underneath mr.metal will help. but that is not my choice as well too..

the symbols in case u wonder, the right corner bottom one means optional parts, u can choose to use either one provided.

while the one with the circled "A" letter means for dry transfer decals (not available in your kit).

the rest are pretty self-explanatory when u go through the steps in the manual.

i suspect the paint itself came off, try rub lightly with tissue to see if the paint come off..
if yes, u might need to topcoat clear the chrome so that the decal can stick on it. but test 1st, not all chrome works with topcoat especially those industrial chrome paint.

ivan, the basewhite got both can spray and bottle (for AirBrushing) la..
only the white surfacer is available on can spray.

battery?

pictures?

try clock/watch shop, or those place where they fix replacement batteries for car key/alarm key.

as far as i know, bandai seldom seldom gives decal, NG lagi no chance..

u mean "stickers" is it?

i usually don't have much trouble with decal made by reputable company. unless those very old decals..
my comment: if u find urself applying the decals without trouble, don't have to use lar..
but of course it's almost a good idea to have a bottle at home, standby in case of bad luck