Can try MH or HHQ.. check out the pinned model shop..
You should get the location of the shop.

Waxing is optional, usually at the last stage where you won't be doing anything to it after.

Bear in mind there could be some minoir difference between modeller wax (e.g. Tamiya) and and automobile wax (for real car) in terms of their composition.
Improper usage may cause minor scratch to your finished surface.

Please understand not all plastic kit parts come in 100% perfect condition which is ready to be painted.
If you think it's perfect, then can skip the sanding part.

Anyway, it's good to wash/clean it as what you can't see is the usual problem (e.g. dust, oil residie. etc).

And you only LIGHTLY WET SAND and POLISH parts with decals once they has been topcoated and dried properly.
If you straight polish un-topcoated decals, sure it will koyak lar..

oil base has stronger solvent inside, means u can't use it on acrylic base paint (e.g. tamiya or mr.hobby gunze sanguo or any water based paint).

if in doubt, use the water base topcoat (blue can, Mr.topcoat).

Tamiya is equivalent to Mr.superclear (oil based).

always make sure ur plastic or paint surface is clean and perfect before spraying, u don't wanna cover holes or remove flashes, nipmarks or scratches after you have done the top-coating.



You guys never read the Pinned tutorial posted by VincC454?

Get yourself acquainted with modelling terms and basics.
It's too much to explain and to explain everything from beginning.

read up the pin tutorial, do some search on topics u not familiar, then only start asking what you don't understand.
Better, try out something first before you ask.
Will be better for you to understand things.

Sad.. the superb chrome toturial seemed "not-bothered"..

zieraq, I've not incident of mr.color peel off with primer together, unless there's a rough scratching againts the paint..

and abs plastic tends to peel off easier.
PE polycap definitely will peel off.


which part got peel off and is it scratched with other parts or it just peel off like dat?

zieraq, pointed edge is easy to get scratch.. even if you primer and paint fully cure also will come out if scratch. this is common.
Just be more careful when attaching painted parts.

i use only those sandpaper from hardware.
even ulu ulu place oso I've bought 1500# sandpaper before, so that shouldn't be an issue.
The issue is have you go and find one ?

talk c0k go to hobbitiam lar

seriously.. this is not a ONE-STOP forum for those who wanted to go gunpla but not willing to work out something but just ask that Genius question " can any sifu teach me?"

i doubt one can just lost all their skills just like dat..
unless you got brain injury.

if yes.. go read the pinned tutorial section first to see if you can recall back anything you have forgotten.
http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/488910

This post has been edited by erh_teo: Aug 27 2009, 11:58 AM

i supposed mr.adam1172 is talking about sticking plastic to plastic.

of course no ones perfect.
in fact i couldn't process your problems specifically..
if i use cement and glue plastics it will have stain.. like davelcm said.. need to do sanding to remove it.
if you use superglue also got stain depending how much glue u used and how you apply..

if you really stuck up.. posting pictures sometimes help..

ok ok

thanks blowsperior for directing the earlier info

i think davelcm has stated it quite clear.

Mr. Base White is NOT primer. It's just foundation base before painting light colors. It's NOT a paint as it's somehow coarser than paint pigment, but if you aren't selective, it can be just top-coated and done (if you plan to paint it white)

Mr. Surfacer is a primer.

Mr. White Surfacer is a primer that is in white and only available in can spray.

To prime a kit is to provide:
1) Even/Smooth and firm foundation (less resistance for paint scratching) for the paint to adhere ( which is the property of both Mr. Surfacer and Mr. White Surfacer)
2) Check for errors, holes, seams (since it's flat grey it shows shadows and uneveness easily, which is why to use Mr. Surfacer - Grey)
3) Foundation - paints are not 100% opaque, that's why you need a foundation color like white to be applied if you paint light colors like yellow or red. (White Surfacer or Base White)

TS-13 Clear is of gloss finishing.
most tamiya paint are in gloss finishing if they didn't state it.
For flat paint, it's usually stated.
While their only semi-gloss paint is black (which is X-18), also stated.

which lacquer paint are you referrring to bro?
Weird coz I find methylated spirits to be relatively weak as a solvent for lacquers, but for acrylics.. OK.

---

Added on December 29, 2009, 11:35 amget a longer hose, somehow you might have chance to trap the water in the hoseline before it gets to your handpiece.
if you are using a transparent hose, you'll see water trapped in.
if you are using a short hose, it might not have time for moisture to condensate.

So.. u either get a super long hose and observe the water build up in the hose and clean it as it get build up with water..
or
Get super short hose, hoping that it's too short for mositure to condensate into water in your line..]

if everything fails.. time to upgrade your set, coz most water problem appears after compressor getting hot (>20mins using)

This post has been edited by erh_teo: Dec 29 2009, 11:35 AM

For doing nice and fine linings.. try washing technique wt enamel paint.
The steps are as follow:
Plastic>Primer>Paint (either can spray or mr.color/tamiya if you have airbrush)>Enamel>Topcoat clear

Note:
Paint: try to choose non-flat paint as it's tough to clean up the lining the wash if surface is matt/non-glossy
Try to avoid acrylics like Mr.Hobby or Tamiya acrylics as sometimes the turpentine used for enamel wash might be too strong to cause the paint job to smear/dissolve

Topcoat: Try acrylic topcoat (can be gloss/semi/flat, up to your own preference)

Try to search button for "enamel wash for panel lining", it's been discussed too many times in this thread.

Shenwoo, if you are using lacquers, Future should give no problem to your paint job unless you are painting with acrylics like Tamiya or Mr.Hobby (gunze sangyo water soluble accrylics).
Try switch to gaianotes or Mr. Color paint.

Gloss coat will somehow deepen whatever color (except white ).
VincC454, go for flat coat if you don't mind "pastel" effect.

I also dunno how to explain.. a term which rayloke uses a lot.. pastel effect as in "powdery feel in terms of it's color"..
means not gloss at all gua..

i think yumoto's stuff is quite "pastel"..
http://www.geocities.jp/a2crafts/sp2.htm

then sepray thin thin layer lor..

Wah, long time never come here sibuk. This thread is still alive

Kevinn7, if you like to know more about auto modelling, try here:
http://z12.invisionfree.com/ScaleModelsMalaysia
or alternatively, clicking on rayloke's signature will bring you to zerogunz.
There are more people doing cars/autos there and their WIP has more info for you to learn more about making cars.


Any, I my attempt to answer some of your queries if you don't mind..

1) & 2)
I suppose you wonder the effects of paint finishing (gloss, matt, orange peel, etc) with changes in paint thinning and airbrush setting.

Ok, since 1) and 2) are related, I shall explain together.
Like what been explain, the faster the paint dry the coarser the paint dries (ie. rough, matt or flat).
The only way to get a smooth surface and glossy is a wet coat spray where you spray the plastic surface with paint until it turns "wet", but not too much until you get runny paints.
I think 10psi is too low for wet coat as the paint emmission is too slow for the paint to build up a wet-coat.
By the time it build sufficiently thick enough coat, most of the paint on the surface has dried and more paint landing on dried/semi dried surface will create a flat-look.
To get a satisfactory glossy surface, you need to get the job done fast.
How fast? Google on youtube on those car makers, you know how fast you need to work with your airbrush.
They usually spray with higher psi around 18-25, and moving the hand fast to cover as much area with paint as even and smooth.
Spraying with low psi takes longer and risk the danger of paint pooling/accumulating.

Besides, I assume you spray semi-gloss paint to get semi-gloss finishing, flat to get flat and gloss to get gloss.
Spraying on a flat/rough surface will get you a flat/semi-gloss or rough finishing despite you are spraying with a gloss paint on top. So, make your primed surface matches your finishing need.

As for thinning, it's really very versatile.
Some prefer thinner, some thicker.
Thinner paint means runnier paint and require thinner paint layer, but more layer.
Thicker paint means less layer but risk of orange peel/ paint pooling.
It's up to individual to adjust to their need. Key is practice. Get some disposable plastic spoon to practice your airbrush if you're not confident


3) For clear coat on painted surface, it's about paint on paint.
I believe you should already know the basics of paint strength (acrylics < enamel < lacquer)
Never get a stronger paint type on top of a weaker (that's why primer are usually lacquer base).
Same type paint on top of each other is OK.
And whenever you need to spray another paint (clear is also a paint) on top another paint, make sure the first spray is always a mist coat. Because a wet coat will carry sufficiently enough thinner to do much damage on the paint beneath (eg. paint smearing).
Once the first 2-3 mist coat has dried on top of the lower paint layer (say 3 mist coat of clear on a painted white surface), the successive wet coat of clear will do sufficiently damage/or so call bonding to the clear coat, but will not reach the white layer paint.
Had you skipped the mist coat step, your wet clear coat will directly react with white and get smearing all across.


4) Of course there will be vapor, so after every wet coat, always allow 1-2 days for it to "gas-out".
Try touch with your fingers, if finger print stays.. (not oily finger prints), that means your paint is still soft and not fully cured.
Wait for it to fully cure before another wet coat (if necessary).


Hope it helps