Heheh. Paiseh. ^^;

I kinda got the grasp of handpainting liao. Have to slowly put thin layer by layer then is the proper way.

Mark settler..gotcha. But dry decals also can use that right?

marker ah. Don't know my laoya hobby shop still got anot.  So that means the small parts no need prime?

BTW, whats gundam real touch marker?

And nono not masking. Like I spray the circular object with topcoat liao, how to let it dry? Cant place it down ma otherwise the topcoat sure touch other surface before drying.

any particular brand to recommend bro? i dont want to use those household elephant glue, scared.. 

MG Hi NU has very tight fitting. especially the joints around the crotch portion. is the kit snap fitted? if it is, disassemble the kit and check properly if u've used the correct parts. some small differentiation in size may result in extremely tight joints.

errr.. i though hhq already shifted shop near chan show lin???

ABout the decal part. Why spray gloosy before apply and another glossy after apply, then flat coat?

Also regarding removing the seam line, how do we do it without actually snapping the parts together? I remember before a book say remove those snap points and do a dummy assemble and remove the links, remove the parts then paint, then snap back and apply cement.

So is there a reason to spray another glossy coat after the decals applied, then a flat top coat? Won't spraying so many levels of coat on places with decals make those parts uneven compared to parts without decals? Also with 2 glossy then 1 flat coat, the outcome would be different right?

Also if you plan to do weathering, then top coat, do you do it part by part or assembled, seeing it's difficult to do weathering unassembled as you have difficulty visualizing the weathering effects. Unless it's just spraying darker color on the corners to make it more 3D.

The seamless part seems the most difficult thing to do. Can I just sand the sides of each part where 2 parts will close up to reduce the seamlines? What number of sandpaper should i use to do this?

I never used water slide decals on Gundam yet since they have to be purchased separately. But the sticker type marking for those "cautious" notes are kinda difficult to put up properly since they are much thicker than water slides.
just the the water slide one, even though have to buy separately, it's much better than the sticker.

The only basic things i haven't tried are these remove seamlines & top coating & puttying. Though last time I skipped painting white on the Gundam coz I found out the White Surfacer actually looks good, and it's flat too...

The top coat I tried once on a model car interior, the outcome was quite horrible. Had difficulties controlling the throttle of the can in the end some coat came in splurts, and it looked like old dashboards put under the sun for years.

I'm gonna start doing MG Patlabors so trying to find the best way. I only have 3 Patlabors I try to do as good as possible on the 1st one.
if u wanna spray paint, i suggest u test it on some crap kit until u satisfy then only try on ur patlabor.
once u know how spray can works, it should work the way it should. avoid almost empty cans as the pressure varies and start quirting paints.
once should always spray from one direction to the other in one flow direction, never start and stop spraying at ur plastic kit, always start spraying at somewhere and stop somewhere (not aiming at ur kit).

The top coat you can't really sand them right? But do you wash them before you apply top coat after sanding the paint? Is it OK to wash them with water?
better dun.
sometimes paint peel off easily, unlike primer, topcoat or any painted layer is sandable but has the tendency to peel off especially not handled properly.
polish with tamiya polishing compound if u need to.
can wash wt water + small amount of dish washing detergent.

Another question of preference. Do you guys apply the base paint when the parts are still on the tree or you apply individually after mock assembly -> remove seamlines. Coz it take really big amount of time if you spray the base primer individually, also waste alot of paint too.

Yesterday started out my stuff. Initially wanted to do the Patlabor Ingram 3 but figure might be better to warm up with the 1/35 EX Patrol Car instead. Was a good choice... found a few problems:

bad choice man.. that 1/35 ex patrol car is such a treasure and hard to find.. shame that u use that to test u aribrushing skills.
hope nothing bad happen 

1.Compressor + Airbrush. Well 1st time using my new rm450 taiwan compressor with top loaded airbrush. I wanted to use back my old Gunze Sangyo Pro-Spray MK-iii since i know the brush better, but OMG the connector doesn't fit! So I had to try out the supposingly cheap top loaded airbrush. The compressor comes with an airtank, but is so small it's just for buffering so you get uninteruptable air, whole tank last like 5 seconds of spraying so the compressor auto pumps air in when Pressure drops. There is an moisture trap anyone know how to dry them out?
there's a release button/valve at the bottom of it, normally i just press it, it will release air and water..

Top loaded are so inconvenient, need to clean every paint change (how do i clean the nozzle???). Offers more control (dual action) but less configuration flexibility (1 nozzle size). Saves more paint compared to bottom loaded Gunze but really hate the cleaning part.
pour some thinner in the cup, then cover the nozzle crown with ur finger tip, press the trigger and pull it. the air will back flow into the cup.
that back flow action will bubble in the cup and wash the paint inside.
spay till the thinner all gone. may repeat one more time to flush everything out.
that's it.
if tooooo dirty then u have to open the nozzle and crown and wipe it off.

2.What's the difference between Mr.Surfacer White 1000 & Mr.Base White 1000? I don't know which to use so I chose Surface White 1st. Which one is better for glossy looks?
one is a primer and the latter is a foundation.
both should be semi-gloss, closer to satin.
clear coat gloss if u want gloss. or use white gloss straight after white surfacer.

3.Masking tape. I really need a good one. I used Post It & Blue tack, the post it is pretty good but not sticky when it comes to non flat surface. The Blue tack is difficult to mask properly, and somehow it sticks the paint out. So I'm wondering are Tamiya Masking tapes are better if blue tack sticks the paint?. What's the usual price and which variant should i go for, so at least i know how much i've been ripped off as I don't have time to search for deals...
just get the tamiya. no fuss. make sure u always use a clean edge, if it's edge stick with fiber/hair, cut the masking tape half vertically, use the freshly cut side. always burnish the edge, this will make sure lesser paint bleed.
spray light coat away from the tape edge.

The cars so small with so few parts yet it took me 1 full day to paint most of the parts... The time consuming part is the sanding after each spray. Now I need some masking tape!