I dont know if it open to public, but I'm sure you'll be welcomed. You have a great bow, and great limb.
Differences between risers.. depend on the materials it been made, and also the mechanism that been implemented. For example; latest Hoyt product, you can adjust the alignment using washer, and guaranteed no limb twist at certain tolerance. Cheap risers usually prone to limb twist, not sure about the latest cheap risers from KAP. The material and design determine the weight and the 'feel' when you shot using the arrows. The feel also affected by limb.

If you grew taller again, it's going to be difficult lol. you might have to find 27" riser. surely you have a long draw length. (just like one of my colleague, 31" draw length) i think long draw length is cool

Beiter is one of the best, i got to admit. it did make a difference using beiter with aluminum risers. but as you already know, Inno Carbon is made from carbon, and it is better than aluminum in vibration absorption. I believe that the riser itself can compensate anything that lack in current stabilizer which is inferior to the beiter stabilizer.
Sorry, what i meant by "changed for the additional weight" is i change the existing weight with the higher weight. The 1st time I tried it, without any adjustment to stabilizer, the bow feels so light, which I'm not used too. I put additional weight (cartel triple weight add weight and act as a damper. it has rubber inside it) on the stabilizer. unlike beiter, you can adjust the position of the 3 weight separately but unfortunately damper cannot be added. correct me if i'm wrong.

Tomorrow, I'll make a new string for my new bow, but using cross strand method --> not sure its name. It adds more energy in arrows, at least for me. my sight is higher using these kind of string even it is 20 strands.

This post has been edited by tidus2k: Jun 9 2008, 12:49 AM


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Aha, I did read a bit about limb twisting and easier tuning. Limb twisting is seen by the bow string going out of the center line right? I'm quite noob in the technical stuffs Heck, this is embarrassing, I didn't even know that there's lengths for the risers too, thought it was only for the limbs Can't afford another riser though, just too expensive My draw length (last measured) should be 30" or 31", can't really remember. Haven't grew tall much since then, so I guess my current one would serve me well Adding to that is the fact that I haven't really trained for over a year, which has definitely affected by shooting form, causing shorter draw length.

Ah yeah, the carbon, much better vibration absorption. On the other hand, I do think that a damper can be added to Beiter too What's the difference between it (the damper) at the top/bottom of the riser compared to it added to the stabilizer anyways?

Bow strings, never bothered to learn anything in regards to that from my coach, can't understand a bit

By the way, any idea how much a second-hand Easton ACE arrow with point, nock and fletches intact can be sold for? And, I've been having a problem since waaaaaay back, that is I keep having my left arm hit by the string if I were not to use any stabilizers. Not sure for advance bows, since it's just weird not to have stabilizers on it, but it happens while using wooden/plastic (er, it's wholly plastic right, cheap range) bow.

Oh and, another question. The level for the arrow from the string to the arrow rest should be a straight line without any inclination, right? And (guess that makes it 2 questions ), whats the usual length from the string to the plunger (the one measured with T-Ruler, no idea what the proper term is )? Should be ~8.5"-9" right?

erm, sort of. bow string going out of the center line can means whether the limb is twisted OR the alignment of limb is not correct, which can be fix easily. but limb twist cannot be fixed, you have to send it back for exchange. limb twist is when the deflection of limb is not distributed equally on the left and right side of limb, measured from the center. but you can determine it (after alignment of limb is fixed) using your arrows, or any straight small shaft. string your bow, the place an arrow between string and both limb (at the end of limb). look the bow from the bottom, and if both arrows and parallel of each other then there is no limb twist, if it is not parallel, then the limb is twisted. DONT USE X10 arrows, use ACC or NAVIGATOR arrows to determine this.

Dont worry about draw length, as long as arrows are grouping, it is okay..

A damper, on top of the riser or added to the stabilizer? since stabilizer's damper cannot be fitted on riser, (riser's thread is bigger) it is difficult to make a comparison. Damper, also acted like weight. KAP FDW (damper, fitted to riser) is better than my cartel triple weight (fitted to stab.) But using damper at riser, make the center of gravity close the riser, it rotates left side or right side easily when you release an arrow (caused by incorrect pressure point of bow arm). that's why if archers using damper on riser, the stabilizer weight also need to be raised. If the center of gravity is in front of bow, the less arrows goes to left or right because it is more difficult for the bow to rotate.

The closer the center of gravity to the bow, the easier the bow can be affected. If the form is really2 good, then it is okay.

What are your desired arrow size (stiffness)? I'll to ask my friends if there is any unwanted arrows. 2nd hand arrows complete maybe around rm600++ not sure. I also was looking for 2nd hand arrows, my X10 size 600 is not stiff enough for my current bow. (Overspine), even with the adjustment of plunger button, but still no luck. I was looking X10 arrows with size of 550 or ACE size of 570, 28" of arrow length. If no stab. for cheap bow, of course the string will hit your hand, because of high vibration. It happens to me too, whereby using the wooden bow, the string 100% always hit my hand.

i supposed that means arrow level from nocking point to arrow rest. erm, the nocking point should be 2-4mm above the arrow rest level. if i'm not mistaken, in some guide says otherwise, nocking point is place above the arrow rest, and the distance is determined by difference is distance of upper tiller height and lower tiller height. I stick to the usual, 2-4mm above the level of arrow rest. sorry, my explanation might be confusing
the usual length from the string to the plunger is called brace height. I always set it at 23.1cm, since yours is 70" suppose to be around 22.5 to 24.5cm or something. in inches it should be around 9" to 9.6". if you set it too low, arrows going out of bow fast, but will have problem grouping the arrows.


p/s: I feel satisfied with my current bow, really smooth, low noise. a little but overspine but maybe i dont have to buy new arrows. currently I use 110g easton break off point. maybe I'll break off 10g or 20g to see whether it'll fix overspine problem.

This post has been edited by tidus2k: Jun 11 2008, 03:26 PM

I thought X10 arrows are small? Cool, didn't know can test it that way. Btw, what's the side effects of not unstringing the bow?

Woah, center of gravity I thought dampers for stabilizers and risers can be interchanged? Did it last time...or maybe my memory is not serving me right. By triple weight you mean the 3-rod stabilizer right?

Not actually looking for arrows, just wondering how much I can sell it off for, if I plan to do so. Mine would be ACE 570. Length should be 31". So that's around RM50 per arrow? Heck, can't even remember what's the price for new ones already What's overspine?

Aha, and I thought I was the only one facing that problem. 'cause it started happening only a few months after my training, so I thought I was doing something wrong, but never got to figure it out. Gosh, why didn't I think of the high vibration So much to learn...

What?! Above the arrow rest? But then wouldn't the arrow be facing down? I always thought that it's supposed to be at the same level, so the arrow would be straight..

Btw, what's a good fingertab? I've been using Angel all along. It's a bit torn IIRC, I might be getting a new one when I'm back. Really miss shooting

X10 size is really small. i was wondering why in tournament, people would ask me, "why is that your arrows is small?". haha.. I have ACE arrows and NAVIGATOR besides X10, (all of them sponsored including hoyt matrix).. comparing 3 type of arrows X10 is very good especially for 70m, but is doesn't forgive mistake unlike ACE. side effect of not unstringing bow? you mean just left it after shoot..? haha... your limb lifespan will shorten because of constant strain effect, in some limb, the poundage will reduce quickly over time.. other than that.. I'm not sure.. by the way, triple weight is a name for cartel product. it is a damper actually, well anyway it cant be interchange with the riser's, at least mine cannot.
eh, got 3 rod stabilizer? i always thought there is always 4 rod. beiter got 4 rod also...

yupe, rm50 per arrows seem reasonable (including point and nock, preferably unfletched), but if it is really in good condition, probably you can raise it a bit.. btw, how much arrows do you have? I also doesn't know current arrows price. you dont know about overspine or underspine? i'm surprise there is no one ever mention this to you. You know that criteria of selecting arrows depend on the poundage of bow, also the draw length right? Overspine happens when you use a limp arrows (softer or higher arrow size) with a heavier poundage than it is intended; and vice versa for Underspine. Let say I was suppose to use 570, but I use 600 instead, resulting whipper arrow when released. you can compensate with adjustment of plunger button. Incorrect bow setting can lead to adjusting sight left or right on different distance. (mine just have to adjust up and down) I just know, why overspine occured in my case. I just got new riser right, with 42lbs limb. I was adjusting it's tiller height. But unfortunately I dont have gauge to calculate the poundage, and end up with 46lbs, which really WAY OFF for my arrow size. Testing was made, even with highest stiffness of plunger button, arrows still grouping at the right side, and more to the right as i increase the shooting distance with the sight remain untouched. (indicate of overspine) reducing poundage to 42lbs makes my arrows grouping at the center.
Ah btw, it is says that it is better to use a stiffer (one size stiffer) arrows compared to the recommended.

Rarely using advance recurve bow, the string hit my hand. if it does hit, i wouldn't notice it, not until i went back home and saw a very small bruise on my hand. this is because sometimes i forgot to wear armguard I think if the string hit your hand while using wooden bow w/o stab., it might indicate your form is still good. unlike me, 3 month didn't train, couldn't pull 46lbs more than 36 arrows.

yeah, i have confirmed it above the arrow rest for 2-4mm. it would be facing down a little bit. it helps the clearance of the arrow. well, i dont think it is really a big deal, if you have set it in the middle, it is still okay. I have seen people set 4mm below arrow rest, but still can get 110 point (12 arrows) in olympic round of some competition in KL in last 2 years. try to test your bow, using bare shafts (unfletched arrows), at the target butt, if you see your arrow like this \ nocking point too high, / nocking point too low. but, using the setup as i mentioned above, it eliminates arrow clearance problem, (at least mine).

I'm sorry, for fingertab i always use W&W 360, i never tried anything else . so i couldnt give you a good suggestion. It was sponsored actually.

This post has been edited by tidus2k: Jun 12 2008, 08:54 AM

Yeah, haha, X10 is really a nice little small arrow. Hmm, does it cause limb twisting? The center I'm working at right now never release their strings, tons of problematic limbs now....still being used

3 rod stabilizer I think got...but not that sure either

Hmm, I see..cause I sold 3 arrows at RM50 each to a friend...and felt that it was very cheap..hmm..guess not.. I'm left with 8 or 9 arrows now..can't really remember.. Yea, no idea about that.. All I know is shooting Didn't really get exposed to technical stuffs. Tuning were all done by coaches. Ah, I understand now. 46lbs from a supposedly 42lbs, now that's cool Mine's only 40lbs

Naa, my form is not good. Tons of problems. Shoulder up, right arm too high, pull fingers kinda awkward, ankle not really fixed, and hell I can't let go of my bow...yes I do mean with finger sling god knows what else right now..

ah I see..guess I recalled wrongly..always thought it should be at the same level..

woah, you seriously have everything sponsored

just want 2 ask u guys what does all the size number on all easton arrows?
a few examples:
for alloy arrows like X7 (e.g. 2014)
for carbon arrows Redline (e.g. 500)
for A/C/C (e.g. 3-18)
for A/C/E (e.g. 720)
for X10 (e.g. 700)

what does all the numbers mean?

No, arrows dont cause limb twisting.. its the limb itself cause twisting. which mean that this is a manufacturing problem...
a week passed since my last training.. huhu, bz with work. maybe someday when I'm free, I can practice.

the numbers represent the stiffness of the arrows, lower number is stiffer. but this number varies with arrow type ex: X10 550 has almost the same stiffness as NAVIGATOR 620.
The type of arrow you should use:
The longer the arrow (using the same poundage), the stiffer the arrow.
The higher the bow poundage (same arrow length) the stiffer the arrow.
Just refer to easton chart to buy arrows.

This post has been edited by tidus2k: Jun 21 2008, 03:34 PM

sunway pyramid got archery ka? how much

Limb twisting question was referring to the effects of not unstringing the bow

Yeah, First Floor, beside the bowling center. Cheapest package is RM9 for 12 arrows. The largest one would be RM99 for 250 arrows. The middle ones I can't remember, paiseh Distance is only 7m. 4m for kids.

oo sorry, because it was very confusing. i cant be perfectly sure, but in my opinion, not unstringing the bow do cause limb twisting. never tried it (never unstring)

Sorry bout the confusion

I guess it does...judging on how most limbs at ... are screwed up

Ooh! An archery thread! Lucky I stumbled upon this! Still lacking a place to shoot. Damnit. Don't want my baby to rot in my bowcase!

why archery is such an expensive sport.. everytime feel like doing archery but at last, i cant afford to buy my own arrow n bow. Even playing at the range thr is quite expensive for me.
I always wish that my hobby is something like football or basketball that at most cost me only around rm500 to enjoy

sadly, it is an expensive sport. I spent a fair bundle on my equipment, but it was damn worth it, indulging in a sport you love (or anything you enjoy for that matter). Shooting at ranges, especially those in shopping malls are really expensive because the rental is a bomb. If you really are interested, i suggest you look for a club at schools/colleges, etc. They should have training programs that and provide equipment and training. Start there and see how it goes from there. Thats how I started out. 8 years down the line, I still enjoy it. Sadly, the centre where i shoot at closed down recently = no place to shoot. Damnit.

but my college no archery club at all..
so sad

aaah.. an archery thread... it's been quite a while since i pick up a bow... well, ever since the doc prevent me from pulling one that is... used to have a hoyt radian riser with a 42lb carbon limb - old school by today's std btw...

archery is expensive, but it's mostly a one time investment except for the arrows, if u keep missing the target...
into paintball now, but damn..! it's way more expensive than archery...

Hey guys, I know this question has been brought up before but I'm doing a friend a favour and he would like to know if there is any outdoor archery ranges within the klang valley. Thanks.

someone plz answer Xannava question.. i am damn interested too.. plz pm me the details.

where can i buy Archery things???