QUOTE(Crazy.SoT.Gila @ Jun 10 2008, 12:30 AM)
Aha, I did read a bit about limb twisting and easier tuning. Limb twisting is seen by the bow string going out of the center line right? I'm quite noob in the technical stuffs
Heck, this is embarrassing, I didn't even know that there's lengths for the risers too, thought it was only for the limbs
Can't afford another riser though, just too expensive
My draw length (last measured) should be 30" or 31", can't really remember. Haven't grew tall much since then, so I guess my current one would serve me well
Adding to that is the fact that I haven't really trained for over a year, which has definitely affected by shooting form, causing shorter draw length.
erm, sort of. bow string going out of the center line can means whether the limb is twisted OR the alignment of limb is not correct, which can be fix easily. but limb twist cannot be fixed, you have to send it back for exchange. limb twist is when the deflection of limb is not distributed equally on the left and right side of limb, measured from the center. but you can determine it (after alignment of limb is fixed) using your arrows, or any straight small shaft. string your bow, the place an arrow between string and both limb (at the end of limb). look the bow from the bottom, and if both arrows and parallel of each other then there is no limb twist, if it is not parallel, then the limb is twisted. DONT USE X10 arrows, use ACC or NAVIGATOR arrows to determine this.
Dont worry about draw length, as long as arrows are grouping, it is okay..
QUOTE(Crazy.SoT.Gila @ Jun 10 2008, 12:30 AM)
A damper, on top of the riser or added to the stabilizer? since stabilizer's damper cannot be fitted on riser, (riser's thread is bigger) it is difficult to make a comparison. Damper, also acted like weight. KAP FDW (damper, fitted to riser) is better than my cartel triple weight (fitted to stab.) But using damper at riser, make the center of gravity close the riser, it rotates left side or right side easily when you release an arrow (caused by incorrect pressure point of bow arm). that's why if archers using damper on riser, the stabilizer weight also need to be raised. If the center of gravity is in front of bow, the less arrows goes to left or right because it is more difficult for the bow to rotate.
The closer the center of gravity to the bow, the easier the bow can be affected. If the form is really2 good, then it is okay.
QUOTE(Crazy.SoT.Gila @ Jun 10 2008, 12:30 AM)
By the way, any idea how much a second-hand Easton ACE arrow with point, nock and fletches intact can be sold for? And, I've been having a problem since waaaaaay back, that is I keep having my left arm hit by the string if I were not to use any stabilizers. Not sure for advance bows, since it's just weird not to have stabilizers on it, but it happens while using wooden/plastic (er, it's wholly plastic right, cheap range) bow.
What are your desired arrow size (stiffness)? I'll to ask my friends if there is any unwanted arrows. 2nd hand arrows complete maybe around rm600++ not sure. I also was looking for 2nd hand arrows, my X10 size 600 is not stiff enough for my current bow. (Overspine), even with the adjustment of plunger button, but still no luck. I was looking X10 arrows with size of 550 or ACE size of 570, 28" of arrow length. If no stab. for cheap bow, of course the string will hit your hand, because of high vibration. It happens to me too, whereby using the wooden bow, the string 100%
always hit my hand.
QUOTE(Crazy.SoT.Gila @ Jun 10 2008, 12:30 AM)
Oh and, another question. The level for the arrow from the string to the arrow rest should be a straight line without any inclination, right? And (guess that makes it 2 questions
), whats the usual length from the string to the plunger (the one measured with T-Ruler, no idea what the proper term is
)? Should be ~8.5"-9" right?
i supposed that means arrow level from nocking point to arrow rest. erm, the nocking point should be 2-4mm above the arrow rest level. if i'm not mistaken, in some guide says otherwise, nocking point is place above the arrow rest, and the distance is determined by difference is distance of upper tiller height and lower tiller height. I stick to the usual, 2-4mm above the level of arrow rest. sorry, my explanation might be confusing
the usual length from the string to the plunger is called brace height. I always set it at 23.1cm, since yours is 70" suppose to be around 22.5 to 24.5cm or something. in inches it should be around 9" to 9.6".
if you set it too low, arrows going out of bow fast, but will have problem grouping the arrows.
p/s: I feel satisfied with my current bow, really smooth, low noise.
a little but overspine but maybe i dont have to buy new arrows. currently I use 110g easton break off point. maybe I'll break off 10g or 20g to see whether it'll fix overspine problem.
This post has been edited by tidus2k: Jun 11 2008, 03:26 PM