ooo. who can get discount at autogen?
LYN Proton Saga/Iswara Drivers' Forum! Now with V7, Updated TT information
LYN Proton Saga/Iswara Drivers' Forum! Now with V7, Updated TT information
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Nov 2 2007, 11:00 PM
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Senior Member
3,128 posts Joined: Sep 2006 From: Earth |
ooo. who can get discount at autogen?
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Nov 2 2007, 11:09 PM
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Senior Member
1,487 posts Joined: May 2007 From: Malacca, PeeJay |
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Nov 2 2007, 11:10 PM
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Senior Member
3,128 posts Joined: Sep 2006 From: Earth |
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Nov 2 2007, 11:12 PM
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1,487 posts Joined: May 2007 From: Malacca, PeeJay |
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Nov 2 2007, 11:13 PM
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3,128 posts Joined: Sep 2006 From: Earth |
vacuum n volt on pillar
This post has been edited by wkho555: Nov 2 2007, 11:13 PM |
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Nov 2 2007, 11:16 PM
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Senior Member
1,487 posts Joined: May 2007 From: Malacca, PeeJay |
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Nov 2 2007, 11:17 PM
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3,128 posts Joined: Sep 2006 From: Earth |
cancel liao lo. me also tight now. later la. next time wan go adi. ^^
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Nov 2 2007, 11:24 PM
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Senior Member
1,487 posts Joined: May 2007 From: Malacca, PeeJay |
QUOTE(wkho555 @ Nov 2 2007, 11:17 PM) last month jus went there to buy insuflex to sound proof my car doors.. now still doin.. bought d stuff but no time to do.. haha actually there got alot of ICE stuff.. n quite messy.. u can c alot of UR bars there.. improve n gab stuff there too.. haha |
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Nov 2 2007, 11:37 PM
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Senior Member
3,128 posts Joined: Sep 2006 From: Earth |
QUOTE(dopeisgood @ Nov 2 2007, 11:24 PM) last month jus went there to buy insuflex to sound proof my car doors.. now still doin.. bought d stuff but no time to do.. haha actually there got alot of ICE stuff.. n quite messy.. u can c alot of UR bars there.. improve n gab stuff there too.. haha icic. but my 1st thing is install vacuum n volt 1st. to monitor my engine 1st This post has been edited by wkho555: Nov 2 2007, 11:37 PM |
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Nov 2 2007, 11:41 PM
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Senior Member
1,487 posts Joined: May 2007 From: Malacca, PeeJay |
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Nov 2 2007, 11:42 PM
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Senior Member
3,128 posts Joined: Sep 2006 From: Earth |
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Nov 2 2007, 11:49 PM
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Senior Member
1,487 posts Joined: May 2007 From: Malacca, PeeJay |
QUOTE(wkho555 @ Nov 2 2007, 11:42 PM) oic.. ok ok.. u r the 1st one i heard tat save fuel using meter.. haha good wan.. erm.. if me jus put on k&n drop in.. save fuel more power and most important save money cuz no need change air filter anymore hahaha |
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Nov 2 2007, 11:57 PM
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Senior Member
3,128 posts Joined: Sep 2006 From: Earth |
QUOTE(dopeisgood @ Nov 2 2007, 11:49 PM) oic.. ok ok.. u r the 1st one i heard tat save fuel using meter.. haha good wan.. erm.. if me jus put on k&n drop in.. save fuel more power and most important save money cuz no need change air filter anymore hahaha neosaint teach de. reach his mod thread Added on November 2, 2007, 11:58 pmgd9 all. time to sleep le. This post has been edited by wkho555: Nov 2 2007, 11:58 PM |
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Nov 3 2007, 12:05 AM
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Senior Member
1,216 posts Joined: Mar 2005 |
QUOTE(singchaii @ Nov 2 2007, 09:14 PM) This 1 ar? I done it at Autogen.. err...you should leave the holes in the beams openWanna do sound proof on bonnet, do like mine. Stick all. If we cut and stick according the hole, still not good enough. Cause between the hole with the tulang bonnet, still got lubang for the sound go tru geh.. Hope understand What I'm trying to said.. » Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... « those holes are there for ventilation if water gets in and all is closed (and it will get in...thats y the whole car can drain...all the beams...under the car...the channels forming the door sill...in the bonnet...even the doors have drainage holes....), water vapor will be trapped inside n cant dry out that fast and as im sure u all know...water n iron dont exactly make a good team the engine will most prolly be more silent compared to using the triangular pieces but then the life of the metal will be compromised and btw...its not sound waves we are trying to stop from getting out when we install this sound insulation as we call it it is actually damping material we are basically trying to dampen the vibration of the metal surface in question not stop sound waves from penetrating it (which is impossible as the metal is a solid and sound waves are merely vibrating air particles) This post has been edited by neosaint99: Nov 3 2007, 12:07 AM |
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Nov 3 2007, 12:10 AM
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Senior Member
1,487 posts Joined: May 2007 From: Malacca, PeeJay |
QUOTE(neosaint99 @ Nov 3 2007, 12:05 AM) err...you should leave the holes in the beams open wah sifoo's advice those holes are there for ventilation if water gets in and all is closed (and it will get in...thats y the whole car can drain...all the beams...under the car...the channels forming the door sill...in the bonnet...even the doors have drainage holes....), water vapor will be trapped inside n cant dry out that fast and as im sure u all know...water n iron dont exactly make a good team the engine will most prolly be more silent compared to using the triangular pieces but then the life of the metal will be compromised and btw...its not sound waves we are trying to stop from getting out when we install this sound insulation as we call it it is actually damping material we are basically trying to dampen the vibration of the metal surface in question not stop sound waves from penetrating it (which is impossible as the metal is a solid and sound waves are merely vibrating air particles) |
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Nov 3 2007, 12:16 AM
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Senior Member
1,216 posts Joined: Mar 2005 |
QUOTE(dopeisgood @ Nov 2 2007, 11:24 PM) last month jus went there to buy insuflex to sound proof my car doors.. now still doin.. bought d stuff but no time to do.. haha actually there got alot of ICE stuff.. n quite messy.. u can c alot of UR bars there.. improve n gab stuff there too.. haha and as we were talking about water in the bonnet justnow...doors were also mentionedif you are not aware of just how much water comes into the door during a heavy rain,...try taking off the plastic shell door cover and leave the plastic sheet on... then get sum1 to hose the window down at full flow (this is only a fraction of what nature can throw at your car mind you) and then see how much water actually flows through your door insuflex is a rubber material (granted it is synthetic) and i am also aware that it is a closed cell system (meaning its not a sponge) but try dipping it in water for a few minutes then take it out all of the surface cells (which are open on the surface) will be holding water also, when you stick it to your door,...the inside is going to be oily as there is antirust grease which they have sprayed on the inside of the door yes, i know it can be cleaned off but it will never be 100% oil free unless you use petrol (which you should never do as it will damage the paint...) so the glue u are using to glue the insuflex into place will leave cavities here n there... i understand that you will try your very best to get it to stick all over but it can never be a 100% job these cavities will in turn retain water when it rains and draining will be much slower and as mentioned above, water n metal dont make good friends also, the insuflex will accumulate ALOT of dirt over time as the surface is not smooth presence of dirt also accelerates the degradation of metal very significantly that is why tar sheets are always used when it comes to areas that are exposed to water tar is a petroleum based material and thus will not be adversely affected in any significant way by the oil film left by the antirust coating which you have cleaned off therefore, i strongly advise against the use of insuflex/superlon to insulate inside the door cavity |
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Nov 3 2007, 12:20 AM
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Senior Member
1,487 posts Joined: May 2007 From: Malacca, PeeJay |
QUOTE(neosaint99 @ Nov 3 2007, 12:16 AM) and as we were talking about water in the bonnet justnow...doors were also mentioned i stick insuflex on the door panel instead on the door.. so far ok.. everythg works fine..if you are not aware of just how much water comes into the door during a heavy rain,...try taking off the plastic shell door cover and leave the plastic sheet on... then get sum1 to hose the window down at full flow (this is only a fraction of what nature can throw at your car mind you) and then see how much water actually flows through your door insuflex is a rubber material (granted it is synthetic) and i am also aware that it is a closed cell system (meaning its not a sponge) but try dipping it in water for a few minutes then take it out all of the surface cells (which are open on the surface) will be holding water also, when you stick it to your door,...the inside is going to be oily as there is antirust grease which they have sprayed on the inside of the door yes, i know it can be cleaned off but it will never be 100% oil free unless you use petrol (which you should never do as it will damage the paint...) so the glue u are using to glue the insuflex into place will leave cavities here n there... i understand that you will try your very best to get it to stick all over but it can never be a 100% job these cavities will in turn retain water when it rains and draining will be much slower and as mentioned above, water n metal dont make good friends also, the insuflex will accumulate ALOT of dirt over time as the surface is not smooth presence of dirt also accelerates the degradation of metal very significantly that is why tar sheets are always used when it comes to areas that are exposed to water tar is a petroleum based material and thus will not be adversely affected in any significant way by the oil film left by the antirust coating which you have cleaned off therefore, i strongly advise against the use of insuflex/superlon to insulate inside the door cavity |
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Nov 3 2007, 12:31 AM
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Senior Member
10,975 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: disini disana |
QUOTE(singchaii @ Nov 2 2007, 10:39 PM) Grounding and Power cable for my amplifier. If you see my engine bay in real life, you will get shock. Had many cable. Haha. this one will shock u even more... ![]() QUOTE(neosaint99 @ Nov 3 2007, 12:05 AM) err...you should leave the holes in the beams open those holes are there for ventilation if water gets in and all is closed (and it will get in...thats y the whole car can drain...all the beams...under the car...the channels forming the door sill...in the bonnet...even the doors have drainage holes....), water vapor will be trapped inside n cant dry out that fast and as im sure u all know...water n iron dont exactly make a good team the engine will most prolly be more silent compared to using the triangular pieces but then the life of the metal will be compromised and btw...its not sound waves we are trying to stop from getting out when we install this sound insulation as we call it it is actually damping material we are basically trying to dampen the vibration of the metal surface in question not stop sound waves from penetrating it (which is impossible as the metal is a solid and sound waves are merely vibrating air particles) QUOTE(neosaint99 @ Nov 3 2007, 12:16 AM) and as we were talking about water in the bonnet justnow...doors were also mentioned sifoo really sifoo... if you are not aware of just how much water comes into the door during a heavy rain,...try taking off the plastic shell door cover and leave the plastic sheet on... then get sum1 to hose the window down at full flow (this is only a fraction of what nature can throw at your car mind you) and then see how much water actually flows through your door insuflex is a rubber material (granted it is synthetic) and i am also aware that it is a closed cell system (meaning its not a sponge) but try dipping it in water for a few minutes then take it out all of the surface cells (which are open on the surface) will be holding water also, when you stick it to your door,...the inside is going to be oily as there is antirust grease which they have sprayed on the inside of the door yes, i know it can be cleaned off but it will never be 100% oil free unless you use petrol (which you should never do as it will damage the paint...) so the glue u are using to glue the insuflex into place will leave cavities here n there... i understand that you will try your very best to get it to stick all over but it can never be a 100% job these cavities will in turn retain water when it rains and draining will be much slower and as mentioned above, water n metal dont make good friends also, the insuflex will accumulate ALOT of dirt over time as the surface is not smooth presence of dirt also accelerates the degradation of metal very significantly that is why tar sheets are always used when it comes to areas that are exposed to water tar is a petroleum based material and thus will not be adversely affected in any significant way by the oil film left by the antirust coating which you have cleaned off therefore, i strongly advise against the use of insuflex/superlon to insulate inside the door cavity |
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Nov 3 2007, 12:39 AM
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Senior Member
1,216 posts Joined: Mar 2005 |
QUOTE(dopeisgood @ Nov 2 2007, 11:49 PM) oic.. ok ok.. u r the 1st one i heard tat save fuel using meter.. haha good wan.. erm.. if me jus put on k&n drop in.. save fuel more power and most important save money cuz no need change air filter anymore hahaha hmm...k&n need to oil again after wash rite?the only way that a filter can increase efficiency is by reducing the resistance to the airflow of the intake manifold this in turn would mean either a thinner membrane, or bigger holes in the filter membrane either way, the bottom line is the same...more dust particles get into the engine these kind of filters evolved from racing and rally cars i do admit that they improve performance but as the saying goes....theres no such thing as a free lunch there is always a compromise somewhere in this case, its in the life of the engine more particulate entering into the combustion chamber wears out parts faster (think sand paper) the vac gauge does not influence the operation of the engine's system in any way therefore it will last as long as it can as long as it is properly taken care of you can monitor how much you press and thus make sure that you are not merely dumping unburnt hydrocarbons into the atmosphere this is especially important for underpowered cars like the iswara lmst as it is easy to overpress when it comes to underpowered cars Added on November 3, 2007, 12:43 am QUOTE(dopeisgood @ Nov 3 2007, 12:20 AM) err...arent we then not addressing the real problem at hand?the doors sound 'tinny' (like milo tin) coz the outer door panel vibrates and has no damping on it that is the main source of the sound from the doors even if you insulate the plastic panel inside, the metal outer panel is still vibrating this vibration transfers to the rest of the car body through the door links and will thus increase the overall cabin noise its better to try and stop the problem at the source...not just cover it up This post has been edited by neosaint99: Nov 3 2007, 12:45 AM |
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Nov 3 2007, 12:48 AM
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Senior Member
1,487 posts Joined: May 2007 From: Malacca, PeeJay |
QUOTE(neosaint99 @ Nov 3 2007, 12:39 AM) hmm...k&n need to oil again after wash rite? ok ok.. u have ur way of thinkin.. i start wit the door panel 1st den onli go to the door body.. thx sifoo for advice..the only way that a filter can increase efficiency is by reducing the resistance to the airflow of the intake manifold this in turn would mean either a thinner membrane, or bigger holes in the filter membrane either way, the bottom line is the same...more dust particles get into the engine these kind of filters evolved from racing and rally cars i do admit that they improve performance but as the saying goes....theres no such thing as a free lunch there is always a compromise somewhere in this case, its in the life of the engine more particulate entering into the combustion chamber wears out parts faster (think sand paper) the vac gauge does not influence the operation of the engine's system in any way therefore it will last as long as it can as long as it is properly taken care of you can monitor how much you press and thus make sure that you are not merely dumping unburnt hydrocarbons into the atmosphere this is especially important for underpowered cars like the iswara lmst as it is easy to overpress when it comes to underpowered cars Added on November 3, 2007, 12:43 am err...arent we then not addressing the real problem at hand? the doors sound 'tinny' (like milo tin) coz the outer door panel vibrates and has no damping on it that is the main source of the sound from the doors even if you insulate the plastic panel inside, the metal outer panel is still vibrating this vibration transfers to the rest of the car body through the door links and will thus increase the overall cabin noise its better to try and stop the problem at the source...not just cover it up me noob |
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