You can try get this CAI hose for RM60 without metal fastener at:
AME AUTO PARTS (PJ) SDN. BHD.
25, Jalan 21/11A SEA Park
Petaling Jaya 46300
Selangor.
(Beside CIMB Bank)

I just bought mine from there. It's a bit more expensive than where neosaint99 got it. But since it still have stock so okok lah... The stock one looked very nice in engine bay.

I asked the boss there he say still have some stock... He say if want more maybe need order (Since not in production dy means that's all left) Maybe can try there?

I got it from the Syarikat perniagaan ACR...
Same place where neosaint99 got it...

It's now 13.80 for 1/4 inch
and 21.30 for 3/8 inch
It's a 4' X 5' size...

Aftermarkets are cheap and effective also...
I had seen before a turbo hose which can extend to 2m long carrying price tag of RM40 with rings provided...
It's thicker and has larger diameter than those normal CAI hose... I think that's more worthy...

Just that ori one will look nicer cause it's shape can easily adapt into Saga's and Iswara's... You can try check the courier fees... If you're going for it I can try get it for you..

I installed DRL and added a fuse for it... Check my blog, got example there...
I tap the power from radio fuse and added a fuse and switch before connecting to the DRL.

I put 10 Amp. This wiring is for my DRL and my vacuum gauge lighting... I'll probably add more gadgets like turbo timer and stuffs thats on keys at with "acc" position.

10 Amp is more than sufficient for these 2 devices and more... Such as extra LED strips... But not for Amps of course...

Basically wiring is...
(Tap Radio Fuse)---(NEW fuse harness and fuse)---Switch(s)---Device(s)

Then I just wire another device in parallel from the new fuse harness...


Adding fuse will protect your wirings in case of short circuit... Your DRL's won't get more current without fuse, cause it doesn't need that much current in the first place (Not like starter/amps all those which require significant amount of current)

Example, if I wired like below:
(Tap Radio Fuse)----Switch(s)---DRL
Lets say water did get into DRL/wiring got loosen and both wires got short together... Short circuit will occur...
But due to the circuit is not fused, the radio fuse might blow... Or the worse is the radio will blow... In serious cases whole wiring burnt... The damage could be excessive...
But if it is fused, the New fuse will blow instead, leaving radio fuse and radio untouched... I can easily give conclusion that the DRL is shorted or something wrong with it's wiring...

Therefore it's very important to fuse a circuit, the 50sen fuse might save you from expensive damages to your ICE/car wiring...

Then you just need to tap the fuse from rear light fuse instead of radio fuse.
You can skip the fusing also if you want. Then you gotta make sure you tapped the correct "legs" of fuse. One side of leg is constant 12v while another side has no voltage if the fuse is not connected/blown.

MUST connect to the no voltage leg if you plan to skip the fusing. So that a short circuit will blow the rear light fuse, if not it will blow main fuse at the battery (If main fuse is available, if dun have then bye bye your wiring)...

Price did gone up a lot for the 1/2 inch one... Preferable get 3/4 inch one as can get nearly two of 3/4 inch for the price of one 1/2 inch one... The effect is slight improvement for door closing but kinda helps for high speed travelling...

DRL= Daytime running lights... It's to increase awareness for other drivers... like those 18 wheelers driver to see us when we coming out from a junction...

You got install other meters other than vacuum? Any other holes that we can pierce wire through firewall?