So I feel it’s really worth it. Assuming the calculation is correct. Coz many are skeptical, so I wasn’t very sure if I calculated correctly.

End of the 10 years got more money in bank and got a cash cow(generator) to continue producing a commodity.

I stand corrected, after looking at your post I realise that still need to pay TNB bill for EPF case which is not accounted for.

I made a separate post below.

so you paid advance electric bill for about 60 months.. each month x 800.

just hope after 58 month everything still functional.. if yes then you are gaining if not.. its just a advance payment of your 800 electric bill.

So the scenarios that I made just now looks okay? Any wrong calculation there?

It’s more than a hope. It’s performance guaranteed.

So if anything wrong, it can be fixed. The critical period is the first 10 years.

Since warranty covers up to 12 and some 25 years for inverter and pnel warranty is 25-30 years performance.

So I think it is a calculated risk there la. Not to say it will never break down but the effect will not be that bad.

But one thing can cause the problem u said. U have a bad neighbour throwing stones to your panels. Crack all of them. Then yes your worse nightmare happens.

I stand corrected, I did not take into account that the electricity still need to be paid for EPF case.
Basically the moment once the gains from EPF cannot cover the electricity bill, you cannot rely on compounding value to beat solar case.



This post has been edited by Drian: Oct 4 2023, 04:03 PM

I stand corrected , I did not put in electricity bill in EPF case which causes it to skew towards other investment.

i'm using excel xirr formula for the internal return rates, assuming i paid all upfront, and have excess kWp to cover the loss of efficiency. the return is 27.16%.

1/1/2023 -18,000.00
31/1/2023 400.00
28/2/2023 400.00
31/3/2023 400.00
30/4/2023 400.00
31/5/2023 400.00
30/6/2023 400.00
31/7/2023 400.00
31/8/2023 400.00
30/9/2023 400.00
31/10/2023400.00
30/11/2023400.00
31/12/2023400.00
31/1/2024 400.00
29/2/2024 400.00
31/3/2024 400.00
30/4/2024 400.00
31/5/2024 400.00
30/6/2024 400.00
31/7/2024 400.00
31/8/2024 400.00
30/9/2024 400.00
31/10/2024400.00
30/11/2024400.00
31/12/2024400.00
31/1/2025 400.00
28/2/2025 400.00
31/3/2025 400.00
30/4/2025 400.00
31/5/2025 400.00
30/6/2025 400.00
31/7/2025 400.00
31/8/2025 400.00
30/9/2025 400.00
31/10/2025400.00
30/11/2025400.00
31/12/2025400.00
31/1/2026 400.00
28/2/2026 400.00
31/3/2026 400.00
30/4/2026 400.00
31/5/2026 400.00
30/6/2026 400.00
31/7/2026 400.00
31/8/2026 400.00
30/9/2026 400.00
31/10/2026400.00
30/11/2026400.00
31/12/2026400.00
31/1/2027 400.00
28/2/2027 400.00
31/3/2027 400.00
30/4/2027 400.00
31/5/2027 400.00
30/6/2027 400.00
31/7/2027 400.00
31/8/2027 400.00
30/9/2027 400.00
31/10/2027400.00
30/11/2027400.00
31/12/2027400.00
31/1/2028 400.00
29/2/2028 400.00
31/3/2028 400.00
30/4/2028 400.00
31/5/2028 400.00
30/6/2028 400.00
31/7/2028 400.00
31/8/2028 400.00
30/9/2028 400.00
31/10/2028400.00
30/11/2028400.00
31/12/2028400.00
31/1/2029 400.00
28/2/2029 400.00
31/3/2029 400.00
30/4/2029 400.00
31/5/2029 400.00
30/6/2029 400.00
31/7/2029 400.00
31/8/2029 400.00
30/9/2029 400.00
31/10/2029400.00
30/11/2029400.00
31/12/2029400.00
31/1/2030 400.00
28/2/2030 400.00
31/3/2030 400.00
30/4/2030 400.00
31/5/2030 400.00
30/6/2030 400.00
31/7/2030 400.00
31/8/2030 400.00
30/9/2030 400.00
31/10/2030400.00
30/11/2030400.00
31/12/2030400.00
31/1/2031 400.00
28/2/2031 400.00
31/3/2031 400.00
30/4/2031 400.00
31/5/2031 400.00
30/6/2031 400.00
31/7/2031 400.00
31/8/2031 400.00
30/9/2031 400.00
31/10/2031400.00
30/11/2031400.00
31/12/2031400.00
31/1/2032 400.00
29/2/2032 400.00
31/3/2032 400.00
30/4/2032 400.00
31/5/2032 400.00
30/6/2032 400.00
31/7/2032 400.00
31/8/2032 400.00
30/9/2032 400.00
31/10/2032400.00
30/11/2032400.00
31/12/2032400.00
27.16%

Wow. Quite a long post.

Though, I don’t really think a 18k system can help u cover 400 ringgit bill.

From my understanding of your calculation la.

this is a little over-simplified with the assumption of 47k upfront, for most solar user it will be usually EPP of 2-5yrs card dependent.
using the same logic to gradually increase the capital over the same period, you will not get 2.5k. Furthermore using epf as benchmark the dividend given also depends on when the funds goes into epf pool so it is even much lesser when partial capital funds are being inputed over the same 2-5yr period.


so using same way of the first 5yr where the amount is contributed to investment instrument with 5.5% (i shouldnt use epf cos that cant be taken out till 55yo) by the end of the 5yrs, it will be a little ahead with 4.8k, but then for the next 10yrs with the expectation of 15 years cycle, i could still put this extra which i dont pay to tnb now.
i'm also not using the invested fund to pay tnb as calculation, meaning one will need even more disposable income to sustain the ROI.


and if i have 47k upfront, then same result as yours with year 6 running out of fund if i dont put into solar.
this is of course provided after completing the EPP repayment the extra that i dont pay EPP/tnb is also put into investment instrument for the total course.


to put the field even, for the first 5yrs i'll also put in the same amount per the EPP as i should have that extra disposable income (as otherwise i wouldnt be able to pay the EPP); which by yr14 i would run out of funds.

This post has been edited by razr_sped: Oct 4 2023, 05:11 PM

If you don't take invested fund to pay TNB as if you take from another source , it means the amount of capital used is higher , which means it no longer is 47k but 47k + extra money to pay TNB bill.

I'm trying to make it apple and apples as much as possible, you have 47K money and 9.4k electricity expense every year. Which would come up at the top?

This post has been edited by Drian: Oct 5 2023, 12:18 PM

To be honest, all these calculation only prove one thing. If u instal solar, surely will be better than no solar. For lower amount of bill, the system is considered “free” while for higher amount bill the system is considered”free” and get to use some free energy.

So just go solar je if you wanna convert your Tnb payment into a cash making machine on your roof.

U keep making things super complicated.

Just make it simple, compare the risk against EPF.

Both also super safe. Biggest difference is the first 5 years u can take out 47k from EPF for emergency. Meanwhile for solar the 47 get locked for 5 years.

If u can survive the initial 5 years without touching the 47k. Solar system will win big time as it roll on.

How to install solar at condo?

Balcony. Retractable structure.

Remember your sheet shows after 10 years you cant sell back because nem contract is over (not sure if government will continue or extend confirm have to reapply).


Take note - ppl who did their homework abt NEM soalr already know after 10 years they buy batteries and store access energy for night use. This will also consider as saving already but upfront cost would be battery .

Currently estimate price for 5kwh = RM5k-6k (can get cheaper , battery and solar prices keeps dropping).

Average we need at least 10kwh per house depending on lood/usage.

With current pricing i have to spend about 35k for 35kwh storage for night usage.

So , I hope by then the price drop to sub 20k and with my system, I can still give my system another round of good run.

yes, thus i've put up different scenario as calculation comparison, and i believe for apple to apple calculation it should start from 0 instead of having the 47k upfront as most solar will be in EPP form
one thing to consider is i'm not using the money i put in my investment account to pay for solar, i'm using my electricity money to pay for solar.

yea...its important to know its a 10yr cycle and will need to see how the government and energy player propose any mechanism then.
but it is best to treat it as SELCO by then and plan second phase improvement for battery installation which hopefully reduces by then.

lel.. how solar can "fixed ROI"? everyday sunny? solar panel efficiency will stay the same throughout the 5 years? no wear and tear?

Year 5 should be around 95% so it can start at 9500 and end with 9025 at year 5.

It's just simple modification to the excel sheet with a panel degradation model but it is pointless when at year 10 for EPF side , you already have to come out with 35K extra money for electricity.
The gap is already big enough to show the winner.

This post has been edited by Drian: Oct 5 2023, 06:49 PM