sometimes weird things happened. usually redoing installation will fix such issues.

right, those are the obvious differences between plastic and metal cases. they sound and feel differently (usually better in metal cases). as for the echo, maybe force break mod will fix that, i.e., putting soft tapes between top and bottom cases.

yes, you definitely should try out other plate types. they all have different effects on feel and sound.

edit: if you intended to do switch hotswapping frequently, aluminum plate is usually better imo

This post has been edited by horns: May 19 2023, 12:00 AM

If they sell Aluminum plate, I will order it in a heart beat. Unfortunately, they do not.
I would love to explore different types of plates like carbon fiber, POM, FR4, Aluminum etc. Lets see if Monsgeek do sell more options.

Later is to get to understand something regarding the QMK/VIA. no knowledge at all at the moment.

This post has been edited by zzzz52: May 19 2023, 07:21 AM

any recommendation for mechanical keyboard below rm200?

ok i just realized that m1 has pc, fr4, pom and aluminum plates, but m2 and m3 don't have aluminum. maybe they will be added later.

meanwhile, just play with the available ones first. they will keep you busy for a while haha

What size are you looking for?

as for qmk/via for monsgeek m1/2/3, just be patient. they are still at qmk's qc stage.

the qmk part should work. via wise, they cannot be detected automatically yet. you will need to use a sideloading json to work with via for now.

yes, you should learn qmk/via. it's a door to many other qmk-based pcbs. basically qmk-powered pcbs just need qmk to configure them. via is a bonus ui for user convenience.

Will be getting some Jwick Ultimate blacks.
Will be upgrading the k2 v2 I passed to my brother some time ago. Should be a significant upgrade from the gateron reds.

Using a lubing station makes lubing switches a bit more efficient imo.

This post has been edited by LegendLee: May 20 2023, 12:36 PM

yes, it's indeed a significant upgrade.

to me, gat red (i assumed it's the one with pc stop and nylon bottom) represents an mx style switch with significant stem wobbles, i.e., a way to make switches 'smooth' by providing more free rooms to play. because of that, spring weights should be relatively heavier. the more practical spring weight for their linear in the series is 65g and up (e.g., gat yellow, gat black) imo.

on the other hand, jwick ultimate black is a relatively new linear that has various improvements, with lesser switch top/stem wobbles.

--

found out more shops that offer tray-mount plates. i will get some from them to evaluate their qualities.

imo, the better plates are from the same seller that make zt60 cases. all cutouts are cut precisely (materials are aluminum, pc, pom, brass). their plates for pcb-mount stab support are not available, but their plates with plate-mount stab support have good cutouts for fl-cmmk's.

--

now with the only 'defective' key switch replaced (random failures to register key. something must be wrong when i tuned it), the build with wuque ws silent linear (white) was completed.



tbh, it's a quiet board, even if i use it with this 5-degree case that always makes hollow sound. i purposely use jwick black v2 for esc and spacebar to make noise.

edit: i will use this build as much as possible. stem holes of this jtk coca-cola have started to get loosed. it's one of my earliest jtk sets, and i used it a lot to do tests. i still have few sets, so it's fine. however i will just leave it on this build.

this is the main reason why i don't sell my stuff. i know what happened to them.

This post has been edited by horns: May 22 2023, 11:41 AM

What do you all normally use to film your switches?
I just noticed that there is noticeable differences when I was trying to film my MMD holy pandas.
Initially I was using 0.15mm PC films and it sounded fine to what I wanted.
After that I tried using 0.2mm poron film, and it just sounded noticeably different, the PC film sounded more tighter, less "clacky" sound.
I think maybe those poron film was easily compressed by the housing while the PC film just made the housing tighter.
I felt this way as I had slightly harder time closing the top and bottom housing using the PC film vs the poron film.

it depends. note that almost all mods are conditional. we only apply them when necessary.

first, a bit of history: the original purpose of switch films is to minimize switch top wobbles. it's meant to fill up the gaps between switch top and bottom housing.

after a while, other than the original sticker-type and 0.15mm pc switch films, there were new films which were made of different materials, e.g., eva, poron, dual-layer. unlike pc, these materials are softer in nature, and they affect sound and feel of a key switch (they dampen key sound, and absorb vibrations afaik). after that, thinner pc switch films (0.12mm i believe) were released too. this was because due to manufacturing improvements, the gaps between switch top and bottom housing are narrower than before, and the use of original but thicker pc switch films caused more issues than serving their main purpose. these days, there are already switches that do not need switch films anymore.

after switch films are applied, make sure to test for switch top wobbles again. sometimes it could become worst. (especially for thicker pc films)

This post has been edited by horns: May 20 2023, 10:00 PM

I started to lube those MMD with and without film to see if there are any difference. And with PC film,, it did show a different that I prefer, therefore I done a few to test out after that I tried with the poron just to have some fun with it. I did not expect to have any significant noticeable difference, but it did. That is why i was curious if there are typical material that fits most switches. Thanks for the reply.

Definitely prefer if do not need to use film. I will check thise switches again to see any wobble differences

right, the differences are real.

it's good to go through these processes by yourself. it's the quickest way to learn and understand stuff properly. more than often you will learn even more than going through others' comments (and most of the times got confused by them, because full stories are never told)

i take switch lube as an example. back in the old days, beginners screwed up their switch lubing by either applying too much (mainly in oil form), or using wrong lube that could cause bad things to plastic, thus created all sorts of bad side effects. it was a very puny niche community back then, and the overall experience was limited. hence, to prevent such self-destructive actions from spreading, simple rules for beginners were created for better awareness, such as 'less is more' for application of lube (which is still hold true, but this is not the full story. notably, overlubing was a 'sin' hehe). then, krytox gpl was introduced. its wide range of viscosity opened up a new frontier for users to do experimentations, e.g., thin/thick lube stories. due to surface tension, inconsistency happened when pure oils were used, so some moved to grease forms instead, to find out while consistency was covered, but it's relatively harder to apply properly. hence, one day, some one suggested to mix oil/grease, and this could be done with krytox gpl, with no side effects. hence, mixes like krytox gpl 205g0 was 'invented'. (you can also do 203g0, 204g0, 205g00, etc. this just means increased ratio of base oil in the grease. g2 is the default grade)

now, when you open up gateron oil king and look at its stem, you see this:


this is one of the obvious proofs that you can indeed overlube your switches. if you do it right, using the right lube, the outcomes can be nice.

the above are over-simplified, so that you get the points. there is no right or wrong in things we do in this hobby. as long as you like the outcomes, it's good.

This post has been edited by horns: May 21 2023, 02:12 AM

The only switch I’ve filmed are the gateron milky yellows.
The rest of the switches I’ve built and used don’t really benefit that much from that.

Stem wobble can be due to several factors… if it’s the housing that loose, putting a film can help… otherwise it doesn’t matter.

Majority of recent switches have pretty tight fit between the top and bottom housing. Don’t think switch film will help then.

the good old fff by matrix lab x jwk is one of my favorite linear. the interesting part of this key switch is the material for its bottom housing, i.e., polyamide. it's a type of nylon, but they have a different sound profile compared to cherry mx's. jwk matcha is the newer linear that uses the same material for bottom housing. compared to jwk matcha, fff is an old linear. some of them need switch films.

today, i finally completed the second build based on it. the first one is a tray-mount with split backspace. the latest build is a 64-key gasket-mount.

i also used wuque's pcb-mount stabilizers for the first time. this set is the aurora series. as a precautionary step, you should apply holee mod, although it's also fine without it. i'm look forward to trying out their ws stabs, v3, with tpu and silicone variants.

honestly, in terms of pcb-mount stabs, you should know that experienced users still stick to clip-in cherry stabs, because there is nothing wrong with them.

after 2 or 3 weeks? or whatever weeks i replace switches from office's MG75 to oilking. can directly tell other newcomer, budget plastic keyboard + RM2+- per switch (current still mix with other budget switch) + budget keycap can perform well.

ofc the higher end keyboard case + better quality keycap will make the keyboard overall typing feel more premium, for me thats only add 1 or 2 score on top of the base.

i think wuque ws morandi is haimu midnight blue.



both are with pom housing, upe stem, and 18mm dual-stage spring.

This post has been edited by horns: May 23 2023, 12:03 AM

Looks like so.. even the graph is same..

Really like them tho (morandis), to me sounds and feels just right.

sweet haha

to me they're loud linears, and have short travels (3.5mm). i will still collect some for each, because they have pom housings. later i will check if can use normal stems to make it normal travel distance (4mm)

fl-cmmk makes plate-mount stabilizers for short-travelling key switches (standard version, for 4mm travels)

to me, typing feels will be way off if the travel is shorter than 3.5mm.

yeah to me maybe it's a balance ground for major gaming but still great for typing. Usually the heavier linears and tactiles that I like are too tough for spamming in games. Too soft and it'll end up like reds which is why i abandon my old corsair.

Sounds pretty soft to me though, before i have strawberry jellies that are louder.

Also the recent Linus video on Mechanical keyboards are pretty well made too.

This post has been edited by quarantined: May 23 2023, 02:55 PM

yes, it's all good. key switches with long-pole stems are popular for many reasons.

i like quiet boards, so don't mind me.

as for linus' video, you mean this one?