any example of wired models on shopee?

you can find it at lazada with 'havit tkl'

also there less likely to find a battery with 3 wire, almost just come with 2 wire.
i think the third wire is battery protection or something?


btw. you sure which plug that is? i looking for battery. and the port too (as most battery coming without plug)

today i rotated many boards to revisit all sorts of switches that i have collected so far, stock and tuned. many of them are in their boxes, and separated from my daily drivers. they are mostly barebones so i mount them on one modded case and type.

i think i can say that many good linear switches were released for the past few years, from brands like cherry, gateron, kailh, jwk/jwick, sp-star, and tecsee. by 'good', i mean the overall build qualities of a linear key switch, so that i can just use them as is, in comparison to stock switches released few years before them. (e.g., smoothness, switch top/stem wobbles, spring designs/weights). in other words, new key switches are progressively closing the gap between stock and tuned. other than that, things like stem designs, housing/stem materials have increased as well, to cope with vast user preferences.

this means you have more options to play with, to make your own special key switches if you decided to do so.

for my builds, i usually swap stock springs with mx black's or other heavier ones for space bar and esc key. i like the kickback feel from these keys.

in general, when you think the money is well spent, you feel good. i spent on switches to track changes of key switch qualities for years. that's how i feel now hehe (well, at least i can confirm for myself that things are getting relatively better, in terms of linear key switches)

Was just watching a youtube video about "what's next"


At this point, I'm already using 2 custom-ish keyboards with a third one coming.
First being a budget plastic 96% trimode keyboard
Second being an aluminium 75% M1 keyboard
Third being an amazing value group buy QK80 TKL.

After the QK80.
I should just skip all budget boards and get a good premium board.

Half agree, but not all.
All back to budget and need. (if somebody buy custom keyboard not really see it as hobby, like me)
because as i spend 17x to tecware phantom, it produce all kind of noise in 1 yr.
and yet mention its 'metallic' coat really just peel off by itself, slightly dirt on it and you wipe it with wet microfiber cloth. tadaa scratches with peel paint.

definitely worth add another RM20~30 get a MG75 with graywood v3 and okish keycap (for example).
ofc it smaller layout (75%) compare to phantom TKL or full size 108. but surely better switch compare to stock gateron red.


since i already get M1 (aluminium) as first kit, MG75 budget ABS kit as second. next probably something higher end for collection(maybe) but surely wont group buy, i lazy to mess with all these.


*all i mention is based on stock device and what foam, plate that come with it

I think the point is.
Rather than owning 10 diff entry level boards.
It might be better to spend it on 1 good board.

F

You made me revisit the premium GBs I was looking at before. Extras of Cannonkeys Balance now available!!!

Can't afford a >USD500 keyboard though.....sad.

right, with hotswap boards, technically you can start exploring more advanced kits, after one board with plastic case, and one with hefty metal case. the gaps between the two should be obvious enough for you to decide things.

qk series should be a good start, as they have a good selection of parts.

there are many schools of thought on how to move forward in this hobby. just pick what you think comfortable.

edit: epbt ramenstop has a silky smooth top surface. it's nice to touch hehe

This post has been edited by horns: Mar 27 2023, 11:48 PM

Trying to convince myself that my current keyboard is nice. I designed and made the case and plates myself. It's one of a kind.




I don't need a premium keyboard. I don't. No no no no.

But that navy aluminum is so lovely....

haha your board is nice. tbh only few (that i know) invest time and efforts to do this.

to me, premium kits are mainly for collection purposes, as personal tokens of our passion for the hobby. i do collect them.

however, practically, there are also 'issues' in my use case, e.g., layouts, form factors, parts for me to build barebones (i prefer soldered builds).

this is also why i stick to generic parts most of the times.

Thanks. I just wish I had the money to spare to collect this.


USD515 for the Navy aluminum A Stock extra. I've been in love with this aesthetic since the Satisfaction 75. Then they went and added a numpad and wow! But the downside is the knob is now the Cannonkeys logo which I don't really like, and during the GB, they changed the gold accents of the navy to silver. So to achieve the look in this photo...and add on a PC plate for the thock.


USD652 before shipping and tax.

it has a rare layout. it's time to start practice menabung lol

edit: joking aside, if this is a candidate of the so-called 'endgame', i will say go for it.

the one i hope to collect is this melgeek's 60% brass case. it's an almost 3kg of glory

This post has been edited by horns: Mar 28 2023, 09:29 PM

hmm...98% that have no F row, interesting.

talking about making a long-term project to work with just generic parts, i'm just lucky tbh.

my plan is to make soldered custom builds for myself. it's a long-term project, so that i can have 'syok-sendiri' fun. initially, i thought of having at least 60/65/75% builds. however, there is a general lack of parts for 65/75%. well, there are a few, but they are not as persistent and diversified as 60%.

eventually, i just stick to one form factor, 60%, for many reasons:
1. of the three form factors, 60% is the better form factor for me.

2. 64-key layout is a relatively popular layout.

3. cx60 is a single-layout 64-key 60% pcb, qmk-enabled. my backups are dz60 and yd60mq. initially i started with dz60, then yd60mq. however, since both support multiple layouts, these pcbs and plates were not ideal to me. i prefer a single-layout pcb, and plates that don't have a lot of openings. then cx60 came out, and plate options with 64-key-specific cutouts followed. all problems were resolved.

4. over the years, i have collected a number of generic 60% metal cases for tray-mount, top-mount, and gasket-mount. i just need to build barebones, and mount them on compatible cases to use. the good thing about this is that you just need to tune cases once, and reuse them.

5. good-quality plates, different materials are readily available (e.g., aluminum, brass, pc, cf, pom, fr4, with different thickness, and plate-mount/pcb-mount stabilizer support).

6. 64-key pre-cut foams for plates, pcb, and cases, with different materials are common now.

for now i just restock parts from time to time, and continue to scout for good sources, parts, etc. recently, i started to collect cases that are over 1kg only, because they provide relatively better typing feels than lighter ones. these generic cases are plain and simple, and they actually still have rooms for improvements, e.g., it's possible to make custom weights to fill up the battery space, or the entire tray-mount bottom. (this is the impact of mass on keyboard cases. check out the differences; this is also why i didn't change the weight of my kbd75r3. it's not just about the sound. the feel is better also)

My best feeling/sounding boards are all single layout. Whether it be my custom made acrylic plates or my prebuilt full size using steel plate.

single-layout pcbs and plates are relatively better in many areas also, e.g., it helps in proper switch alignment (you can reduce the chance of misalignments further by using 5-pin switches), and you don't need to clean up the mess when solder flows into adjacent pads.

well, there are a lot of details and techniques that you can learn from a long-term project. it will help shape your own sets of requirements for each part progressively, and how you manage them. however, for the project to work, it also depends on your tolerance levels on imperfections.

all in all, it's a project for me to learn basic stuff and have fun. like i said, there are many ways to move forward in this hobby. just pick the paths that you feel good and continue hehe

the actual benefits of gasket-mount boards are not the 'flex' that marketing tells you. the gasket-based plate mounting style is to provide soft feel and relatively dampened sound with elastic materials. compared to other common plate mounting styles, in their simplest forms, it's indeed the only style that is designed to produce such characteristics.

it also produces a false sense of flex. the actual ways to achieve flex is to through so-called flex-cuts on pcb, plate, and everything that you put in-between.

hence, please consider to read marketing materials/user comments, or view contents created by streamers, with basic common sense.

about gasket-mount boards, no one brings up the hardening effects of those elastic materials yet. hence, if you think your board is getting harder than before, compared to freshly built ones, it might mean it's time to replace the gasket materials. (remember to get the fresh gaskets) this is also why users claimed that old topre boards are stiff/'heavier' after use for a period of time. howevver, it's really up to the owners' preferences. some do like the changes.

in general, whatever built by human are not permanent, and subjected to wear-and-tear. so as long as they still work, and you're ok with the outcomes, it's all good.

I am not pro on all these.
For me the 'gasket' just another form of inbetween structure for keyboard.
The soft/hard really depend on what material you put into your 'gasket'.
Advertising it as 'soft feeling' definitely not true.

For example: my Monsgeek M1.
It surely got 'gasket', but more to hard style of gasket it will not sink to cushion when you typing unless press it super hard,
compare to same brand, and layout MG75 that have no 'gasket', M1 surely feel more premium on pressing. (dont ask me..i dont know why lol)

that's why there is no need to get more hotswap boards with plastic case, after you have one of them. the differences between builds with plastic case and hefty metal case are physical.

everything that we can improve in a board with stock parts is within its physical limits. unless you start to replace/add parts, you will never go past the limits.

by the way this doesn't mean builds with plastic case are bad. it's just personal preferences only.