Well… if this is for the Ciy cheap kit, might as well just try out new switches too.

I believe most Akko or KTT switches are of acceptable standard. Since they’re widely available, there are plenty of reviews too.

At the very least, they’re miles better than gateron or cherry blue/red/browns in terms of sound and feel.

This post has been edited by LegendLee: Mar 15 2023, 01:53 PM

agree too, the geteron red switch on my phantom really bad,
alot of them stuck cant even pull off from the keyboard.


later i take a look Akko and KTT entry switch

technically, unless specified otherwise, all mx style switches are lubed lightly, to provide a very thin protection layer to minimize oxidation of metal parts, e.g., copper leaf.

to remove lube from switches, you can use q-tip + ipa, or q-tip only. the key is to remove excess of lube. i just clean stems and bottom housings. pay attention to rails of bottom housings, and both sides of stems that are in contact with rails.

you can use more thorough methods, like ultrasonic cleaning. however, the outcomes are the same to me. ultrasonic cleaning is useful if you're cleaning up very old switches.

nowadays, there are switches that are prelubed relatively well, e.g., gateron cj, and oil king. you might wanna lube their springs only.

1 question.

How i recognize the fac lube is fine but spring need to extra lube? Or vice versa?

This post has been edited by josh5671: Mar 15 2023, 04:46 PM

by typing on the switches. that's why we put new stock switches on a hotswap board, and type on them for a week or two. it's a brief break-in, but at the same time, we also check to see if we like them stock, or need to do it our ways.

however, no matter what, at least lube the springs.

imo, to check switches for weird feels/sound properly, you need a reference switch to start, preferably, a stock switch. this means you are familiar with this switch, and you know its strenghs and weaknesses. you can choose any switch as reference, but it's better to use common ones.

with it, now you have something to compare to.

the simplest way to do such checks is to do side-by-side comparisons:
- when new switches come, put some on the alphas area, on the same board. since you're doing comparisons on the same board, you minimize potential deviation issues, caused by different boards.
- just by typing on them, you should be able to find out the differences, e.g., feels, key sound, etc.

this way, you will have clearer pictures about the new switch, in comparison to your reference.

tbh, when you go deeper into the hobby, you will find first-hand experience is important, and own preference is king, since we are from all walks of life, different builds, different habits, different preferences, different tolerance levels, etc.

only doing things the right ways can help you find out the right combos for yourself.

Lubing springs is really really easy.
Put all the springs in a small zip lock bag. Put some lube in the bag.
Then shake like shaker fries.

Yeah it’s the lazy method … but it works lol.

asked few people and they all doing zip bag style.
but which lube so oily that can do it? normal 205g0?

since every kit produce different 'thock' sound.
now my plan is, get a CIY tester/ LK67 as previous, and some stock greywood switch(where my main keyboard using lubed) + also few other brand switch.
so i can test stock and after lube feeling on one keyboard.

keyboard kit and switches first.. then later follow up with lube tool (maybe i feel no different stock and lubed leh? lol)

Yeah. 205g0 works well.

yes, the outcomes (e.g., feels, sound profiles) are always the results of the combination of all parts and modifications applied in a board.

nowadays, it's really possible for you to stump upon something that you like, because things have changed a lot. whatever that can be commercially made are almost covered, especially key switches.

you should know that switch break-in and lubing were originally introduced to improve scratchy cherry mx. this was when cherry mx was still mainstream many years ago, and gateron, kailh, outemu did not exist yet. until today, they still hold that title when they are stock, despite improvements that have been made so far. build qualities wise, they also have proven records for being top-notch in durability and reliability.

on the other hand, when you know more about lubes, there are a number of uses with them, beside making switches smooth.

This post has been edited by horns: Mar 16 2023, 02:09 PM

Noted. Will do.

Yea, thing improve so much like the base kit now coming with basic form etc. Some even come with fully equiped form. (ofc slightly low quality one, compare to self diy form)


Also i found mg75 kit only cost 100+ish and no rgb(office no need)
And most important, same layout with my M1 WITH DELETE KEY TOP OF BACKSPACE.

Me still have a lot thing to learn. Day by day understand more thing about this 'hobby'

yeah. back then, options were limited, parts were hard to get, let alone asking for things like quality.

now, hotswap kits are everywhere, all-in-one, and cheap some more. options for parts increased by many folds, overall qualities improved, and are readily available.

switch hotswapping support was a good move. although earliest generations of hotswap boards were bad in many areas, improvements have been made progressively, so new generations are relatively better, and richer in choices.

at least it allows everyone to have the convenience to adjust their boards for own comforts. that alone is a good quality improvement already, and the right reason why we should get a mechanical keyboard.

just pick things up at your own pace, and stop when you wanna stop.

this is the upcoming stabilizers from gmk, pcb-mount, screw-in. housings and sliders are made of abs plastic.



it's available at https://kbdfans.com/products/qmx-stabilizers and many other places.

the gasket-mount 60% cases have arrived.

the weight of the case is slightly over 1kg, with most of it from the bottom case. this is better, because it will produce lesser case pings. i also cover it with a 1mm-thick poron foam.

there is a space for battery, which i fill it with more poron foams. at the bottom there is an engraving, BGKYPRO. i guess that's the brand of this generic kit.

for the first build, i use stock jwk jade rabbit, pc plate, without plate/switch foams. recent jwk releases only require spring lubing, if you liked the stock spring type and weight. everything else is ok to me.

hence, as of this writing, generic cases for those who are interested in generic 60% builds:
1. zt60, tray-mount; and
2. bgkypro, gasket-mount.

both cases are relatively hefty, so they help to make builds that can produce 'cleaner' key travels/lesser vibrations. for tray-mount builds, i suggest the use of gummy o-ring to secure pcb to achieve similar typing feels. imo, tray-mount no-foam builds are ok with this mounting style, as o-rings help absorb most of the vibrations when typing.

previously, there was a top-mount case for generic 60%, that has similar qualities. however, it's out of stock, and the seller doesn't have the intention to restock.

Just to share. I went from die die have to have a 100% full size keyboard, to split 75% plus numpad, and now to split ortho 65%Edit:correction it's a 60% (Keebio FoldKB).

How I cope with lack of dedicated Del key. I use QMK's combo keys, sometimes called chords. Backspace+Equal = DEL. These 2 keys are just next to each other. I go further with Shift-Delete to permanently delete files in Windows Explorer. Backspace+Minus = Shift-DEL.

The relevant code below:

const uint16_t PROGMEM test_combo6[] = {KC_MINS, KC_BSPC, COMBO_END};
const uint16_t PROGMEM test_combo7[] = {KC_EQL, KC_BSPC, COMBO_END};
combo_t key_combos[COMBO_COUNT] = {
COMBO(test_combo6, LSFT(KC_DEL)),
COMBO(test_combo7, KC_DEL),
}

This post has been edited by niakulah: Mar 20 2023, 02:16 PM

yep, i literally same thinking, if you have read my post before i buy M1
but once i get M1. i found out M1's 75% kinda suit me for daily drive (gaming the most and slightly office)


hence getting MG75 planning for office use, and maybe will get numpad later if needed

thanks for the share.

yes, our boards get smaller eventually. there are many untouched keys in my full-size, tkl and 75%. that's also why i skip everything that is more than 75% most of the times, unless they are meant for collection purposes.

Those unused keys.. can it be set to custom command?

yes, they can be set to custom commands.

however, 60%, with layers, are more than enough to support my daily work.