Just like the Lewis Toh video or otherss keyboard related video. there will be no upper limit for this 'hobby'

but for someone just need 'custom' keyboard for them to get their own preference and stop there (without go premium)
I already intro few Monsgeek MG75 for some friend and they happy about it. (maybe they same like me never use good mass production keyboard)
As it cost half (45% to be exact) of my M1 and the typing feeling not really much different (ofc by random gamer/user)


hence, if I going to get another keyboard, most likely get better one (compare to M1) for collection.
but that will be take a while, (recovering wallet first)

tbh m1 is very affordable and friendly for budget users already. it's just around 400+ myr for local stock, 360+ myr from cn, barebone unit with knob, and qmk-powered. (from a brief search at shopee just now).

it's slightly heavier than keychron q1 also.

yes, just take your time in this hobby. there is no deadline for us to meet hehe

Hmm, anyone knows any shops that sells Logitech G815 at a reasonable price?

I actually just built a MG75 for my wife use (office) too.



MG75
- tape mod with a bit of foam mod.
- can’t put too thick foam because of the wireless toggle switch below.
- would have been better if this was south facing ….
- the stabs are already generously lubed. So I don’t have to do much there.

Unholy Pandas
- aka Feker pandas
- Lubed with krytox 205g0
- the dual stage spring is nice to use
- but these are really loud…

Clone GMK soya milk
- OEM profile double shot PBT

Typing experience is way different from my Monsgeek.
But that’s only to be expected as the switches are very different. (Akko Lavender vs Feker Pandas).

Next board… should be the QK80 when it arrives in June/July.
Already ordering the neapolitans switches for it.

This post has been edited by LegendLee: Apr 3 2023, 11:10 AM

no idea. gaming boards are generally overpriced in the world of mkbs, so 'reasonable price' might not apply.

yep it totally different experience from M1, also the most important,
I intentionally using Graywood v3, thats on my M1 too. and switch out my m1 keycap into exact same budget keycap.
so the diff only different keyboard kit and lube vs not lubed, no mod on MG75. result is, MG75 not a bad keyboard.

thats why I more agree to horns claim, the keyboard now totally affordable for everyone. but top of the line still unreachable.
Since peoples buy keyboard to use it in few days, so the group buy that take months maybe 1 year wont apply on most user

This post has been edited by josh5671: Apr 3 2023, 11:53 AM

feker pandas has a 2-stage spring with 67g bottom-out. it's quite heavy for ladies, no?

i think maybe slightly heavier switch stroke better for her office use?
Me using graywood v3 and gateron red have a lot of time accidentally pressing button even the hand rest on the key.
now actually looking for slightly high stroke switch.

for MG75 in office, probably will change Leobog Icesoul tectile (maybe will buy few to test)

I see.

Reasonable as in normal retail price and not mark up

O well.

Might just get the wireless instead.

Indeed the force required is much more noticeable.
But between the the switch colors and rounded bump, we figured it would be good to test this out.

Once the novelty wears off, will likely swap this with the KTT matcha.

ok just do your things haha

we all come with different sizes, with different finger lengths and strengths, etc. to hope for 'one size fits all' in mkb is not practical. in this case, the simplest fix is to do spring swapping.

i have problems when i use heavy springs too (above 72g, linear rated; it's the same when i use other spring types that are heavy for me). mistyping is common. that's why i don't bring them to work. it's counter productive.

however, note that i'm using linear switches. my change is usually straight forward with no weird effects. i'm not sure other switch types.

is it ok to post a mkb kit selling ads here?

It has been sitting in the box for very long lol

i believe it's fine.

to reach more users, i think it's better to post at mechmarket fb group also.

edit: you can also post the board(s) at lyn's garage sales section as well.

a long long time ago, when i was a beginner, i went there and looked at people's boards (back then, pocket asyik kosong je)

This post has been edited by horns: Apr 3 2023, 03:16 PM

You’re right that linear switches have way less variables.
Don’t have to worry about tactility, bump location, sharp or gradual bump etc.

I’m using the gateron yellow pros for one of my keyboards too and I’m really happy with it.

I still have a pack of haimu heartbeat with me too. Going to upgrade a friend’s keyboard from gateron red to that.

right, of the three mx switch types, linear is the simplest. it's also the only one that can get better with time.

most importantly, it gives me the best typing experience. that's all that matters.

as of this writing, the plate options for bgkypro gasket-mount case are as follows:
1. plate materials: pc, aluminum;
2. layouts: 61, 2u-left-shift 64;
3. stabilizer supports: plate-mount, pcb-mount stabilizers.

hopefully they will make plates with other materials, e.g., pom, fr4, cf, stainless steel, and brass.

currently i still use stock gasket stripes. they are ok. i plan to use other materials as well, but later. for convenience, you can always stick gasket stripes on the case instead of plate.

this white space bar cap of my epbt kuro shiro r1 has two kinds of warps. one is the usual, which is at the bottom, with one side slightly away from the flat surface. another one, is with two sides slightly warped upward, when you look at the space bar cap from the top.

holiao. i'm keeping this.

straight key caps are important. a warped key cap is another reason why long keys are not stabilized properly, even if stabilizers are well-tuned.

i have replaced it with a straight jtk space bar cap. all sorts of nonsense are gone.

This post has been edited by horns: Apr 6 2023, 10:44 AM

Anyone have comment on Outva Yin switch?

As you mentioned.
I think my cherry Darling Franx spacebar also slightly warping.
the right side slightly higher than left (so obvious until right side can see the stabilizer base even without RGB light-up)
*but I will take free time to check is it the stabilizer not install correctly or my keycap warped*

thats why that day i switched to that clone OEM sakura and yet changing back.






**Out topic of warping keycap*

Btw, is there any sub RM 1 or around RM1 tactile switches to intro? (fac lubed or stock without lub also can)
Plan to switch out some key on home and office keyboard, that graywoodv3 is too linear for the job.
like the number row.

listed few but yet doing much study about it:
-MMD Holy Panda
-Leobog Icesoul
-Akko Crystal Blue
-Akko Cream Blue V3

just put the key cap on a flat surface and tap each side to find out. yes, make sure stabs are sitting flush on pcb/plate also.

for well-tuned stabs, usually the typing feel of long keys is still acceptable if the cap is relatively straight.

in general, warped long keys break otherwise good typing experience, especially spacebar, shift, backspace, and enter. this is why we check these keys first when we receive new key cap sets.

not all sellers are responsible enough to help you check, and replace keys with issues.