noticed aula has newer models like the full sized keyboard model










this one, the key prints r on the bottom side of the keycaps. the top is blank. but the advantage is the fonts are see through which go well with the LED lighting, so has a very nice aesthetic.

I'm already content with my aula F99, but if i were to look for a new mkb, i would probably recommend their Aula F108 pro. Not sure if they got a full keyboard with a similar doubleshot to the f99


*update

thats weird. both the youtube say they are F108 pro, but the first one is blank but with the bottom side with see through fonts. But the bottom youtube has the standard doubleshot. I am assuming they have variants for the same model where u can pick which u prefer (im more biased to the standard double shots, but i must say, the see through blank keycaps look amazing too for led lighting)


https://www.reddit.com/r/keyboards/comments...et_i_cant_find/



is that a major issue?



based on this, the pro has DOUBLE the battery life up to 8000 mAh. that alone makes it worth going pro tbh My F99 is also 8000mAh (and its a non pro). I guess they realized they gave away too good a battery even on a non pro, so they later made it specific for the pro series later on (well i dont see a non pro for the 108)


*update

oo seems there are 4 sub variants. 2 side printed color schemes, and 2 normal double shots color schemes.

grey (side-printed) and the grey-yellow looked good (for me). Wouldn't say the later is my fav, but its ok (better than the other color schemes for me ). Thats the thing about these mkbs, they may look great for everything including price, but then the color theme doesnt match ur preference then that puts a damper on things

This post has been edited by Moogle Stiltzkin: May 17 2025, 08:05 AM

You tried tactiles and dislike them? I've been slowly moving towards tactile now lol

Currently has TTC Bluish White for quiet office use

Gateron Type R I didn't think I would like but they're super fun to use

Also the dreaded MX browns I think I found a good home for them in a more muted board. Previously they are abit annoying in a PC case.

I still have a meme board with keychron blue switch. Next Im going to try some domes..

i don't dislike anything. i just prefer linear more.

i like linear because it matches my taste when typing. (simple, direct) just let muscle mems do their things. also, imo they are the only switch type that can perform better in the long run. internal wear-and-tear is a plus for them.

i believe parts like case, plate, foam, and mounting type can help enhance performance of mx browns. those who like mx browns should already have their own recipes.

This post has been edited by horns: May 19 2025, 02:19 PM

bought some yogurt to try out, and older-version of tx stabilizer stems (both standard and prolonged types. recently i bought more key switches that have shorter key travels)

there are so many options for stabilizers these days. the days when choices were so limited were long gone haha

--

now typing on wuque ws jade (this one has a steel tip at the end of stem pole) it's noisy, but acceptable.

This post has been edited by horns: May 24 2025, 05:36 PM

Guys, I'm confused.

Should I go for Aula S100Pro or S98?

https://www.aulastar.com/gaming-keyboard/286.html








https://www.aulastar.com/gaming-keyboard/399.html



layout is different. also check the color scheme and the switches if they are what u want.


check the specs see the difference, then check pricing and make ur decision


try google got comparison filters

https://keeb-finder.com/keyboards/compare/a...omaker-aula-f99


i advocate for AULA F108 Pro because its 100% full kb layout, its a 2025 new release, aluminium casing, nkey roll over


fyi my old 2023 aula f99 has a 8000 mah battery. i see the S100 Pro does as well



some of the things u want to check


- battery. how big is it? e.g. my Aula F99 is 8000 mAh for example. some different models i see have 4000 mAh. I know which i prefer without having to elaborate

- nkey roll over? if u do simultaneous key press, i recommend make sure the mkb has this

- keycaps doubleshot? this or dye subbed is good. some have side print but see through keycaps for lettering. check what u r getting

- casing? my F99 is plastic pbt? where the 108 pro seems to be aluminium casing. The later is nicer, but former is ok for most user that aren't too fussed about that.

- switches? which type?

- gasket mount? etc

- software any good? i found the aula to be fine, but some people compare to other mkb and say its bad by comparison.

- price? anything similar but cheaper? u go check and let us know



check the product pages, compare urself. google, check reddit. if too lazy, ask AI (i use gemini) also share with us ur findings as well.

This post has been edited by Moogle Stiltzkin: May 25 2025, 08:59 AM

Btw, where can I find info on the switches description for F108 / pro?

I'm looking for full board + tactile (I know it's hot swap but don't want too many switches lying around, I never like linear switch)

go google type "aula f108 pro switch specification" without quotes.

OR, open ur smartphone talk to ur ai (e.g. gemini) ask it directly


there so many even i get confused (minimum u can check if its tactile or linear). if not sure what is good and bad for switches, repeat the same thing in google and ask about reviews or opinions on the switch type. normally id also add on, reddit, since most of the discussions happen there.

linear and tactile are very different. im ok with either. but what im not ok with is the clicky blues

This post has been edited by Moogle Stiltzkin: May 25 2025, 11:46 AM

looks like all the three option switch come with this board linear, so u have to buy separate tactile switch.

Looking for tenkeyless lightweight modular keyboard. Anything good?

How lightweight and modular you want it to be?

Check out Tiger Lite (Plastic = light, also not too expensive) and if you're into gaming boards upgrade it with a Venom HE TKL pcb.

Heeyyy guys,

I finally plunged into the world of mechanical keebs.

Introducing the Thunderobot K104S, a basic barebones full sized keeb with ARGB and hotswappable Red Switches. Yup, it has all 104 keys and for only RM 99


My reviews usually are long winded but my brief usage is... its better than my HP office keeb, with the Red switches (Thunderobot, TR branded) & excessively lubed stems.


It has very vivid RGB lighting that shines thru the ABS keycaps seen here after I remove the top case (trying to look see how to mod)


Prolly will do a more indepth review (from a beginner noob perspective) but maybe in a separate tered so I do not overwhelm the page here. At least I hope it can be a guide to those who might be put off by the cost of this hobby.

I know decent keebs goes into the hundreds RM even just for 75% ones but as a beginner I think starting on a basic budget model suits my needs and allows me to explore more. Yes the reason for it being this cheap due to using ABS keycaps not PBT, and it doesnt have tri-mode or built in battery so its a deskbound keeb but it works for me, my PC dont travel so why should my keyboard be. For some reason the cable is Type C detachable tho.

Also doesnt get to the "marbly" or "creamy" or "thocky" feel/sound of those far more expensive keebs. But I am wanting to change that with more questions on modding later...

This post has been edited by babylon52281: Jun 2 2025, 02:52 AM

mkb modding is fun and practical because of its customizability and maintainability, which can translate to mkb's long shelf life in general, i.e., more than 10 years, easily, if you do and maintain it right. it makes sense to tune your mkbs for personal comfort in the long run.

if you intended to make this a hobby, as a beginner, just start picking up stuff from the board on hand. learn fundamentals, pros and cons, etc., then set up reference parts so that you can compare to later. basically patience is key, and practice makes perfect.

these days, almost everything in a stock mkb is available for you to play with, e.g., key switch, key cap, stabilizers, plate, pcb, foams, case, firmware, etc. each base part has even more options and related mods, e.g., mx-style key switches have top housing, stem, spring, contact leaf, bottom housing; switch lubing is one of the key switch mods, although most are prelubed at factory today. all these parts work together as a unit to achieve your preferences. the ecosystem surrounding mx-style key switches alone is huge because of rich variety of choices and options derived from base parts. there are also other ecosystems, e.g., topre, alps, optical, he.

by gaining more personal experience progressively over time, with different configurations (through own projects, or meetups), you will eventually shape better ideas on what you actually want, and get to build boards that you like the most (a.k.a., endgames), i.e., those that are closest to your expectations and preferences. (this is also why i cannot go back to light boards anymore. i like boards with a hefty case) imo, endgames don't have to be expensive, signature type. as long as they give you the best typing experience, they should be eligible as your endgames.

beside basics, almost everything in this hobby are subject to own preferences, and most of the times, there is no right or wrong. just get and tune your boards for the best typing experience that you can get from them.

one last thing: spend wisely. there is no rabbit hole, unless you dig one for yourself. even if you do, you can always stop at anytime. it's just a hobby.

This post has been edited by horns: Jun 3 2025, 07:48 PM

hmm i suggest to try out EC/Topre when you can.

I only just tried one and now I thinking MX might not for me anymore...

yes, it's better go one round on mx, ec/topre, optical, and he whenever possible.

original topre is not my cup of tea. i mis-type a lot on them, and i still cannot get used to the 'sudden free drop' feel after actuation. maybe those custom domes will help.

.. you reminded me that i have bought some as replacement. i'm too lazy to do it hehe

A fuller review of my Thunderobot keeb is now up
https://forum.lowyat.net/topic/5526067

Bear with me as Im just a noob beginner at this.

nice. hopefully after you have grasped basics with the current board, you will conitnue to explore, experience and experiment more.

every part in a mkb is a huge topic on its own. just take your time to pick things up. coupled with personal experience, it will help you shape the right ideas on qualities of parts, so that you know how to choose them.

.. and while hotswap options are common today, there are valid reasons why people still get that 3.7-kg seal with soldered pcb options. (the reason why i link this one is to demonstrate how rich of options that a typical custom kit can have, minus foams)

Yea I get there is such thing as endgame keebs for those veteran keebers who knows exactly what they want and if such a product drops it would have perfectly suit their needs without much further modding.
These keeb makers also pretty much knows which target buyers their after so I guess they would see no reason to make it hotswap.

Is ther an endgame keeb? idk... lol

Solder and hotswap boards do have their pros and cons, for example with solder you can do plateless, hotswap will wear out etc.

But gotta say full size hotswap mechanical keyboard under 100rm is kinda crazy. A full set of switches will usually already cost more than that.

to me, the meaning of endgames has changed, because i rotate boards. imo endgames are mainly particularly tuned combinations that are the closest to own preferences. they don't have to be expensive, and they don't have to be the only one on your desk hehe

normally custom kit makers have certain ideas about their kits. users who share the same ideas will support to make the ideas a reality, so they are willing to get these kits. for me at least, i will get both solderable and hotswap pcbs if possible. use hotswap pcb for experimenting and tuning first, then make the tuned outcomes that i prefer permanent with soldered pcb. i can always swap back to hotswap if i wanted to. well, it depends on how you wanna play with a particular kit.

again, what's important is still learn to know what you actually want. this can be achieved by growing personal experience progressively.

haha the answer is always yes and no. yes if we decided so, and no if we are still enjoying the journey.

my little project is still on-going. i still build soldered 64-key 60% for myself, based on different combinations that i like. i am my only customer. it's easy to satisfy customers like that haha

yes, switch hotswapping is convenient and practical. it's good for us to play with stuff. however, they do come with cons, even though they have improved a lot compared to older generations. to me, they cannot provide solid structural support like soldered pcb. typing feel can be different between the two, depending on various factors.

different generations of users start in different environments and points of time. many have adapted to hotswap, so they might not be able to tell the differences. it's up to them to explore. it's a subjective hobby after all. all are fine