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 [V33] Lowyat.Net Mechanical Keyboard Club

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babylon52281
post Oct 5 2024, 03:27 PM

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Hi guys, wanna ask out of curiosity sake.

I see lotsa discussion about the switches & keycaps, but I just curious if the keyboard board itself is important like would it matter if a cheapo keyboard swap with cherry switches would be much different from a branded unit that has the same switches?

This post has been edited by babylon52281: Oct 5 2024, 03:29 PM
babylon52281
post Oct 6 2024, 09:46 AM

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QUOTE(horns @ Oct 5 2024, 09:56 PM)
yes. in terms of sound and feel, they are the final product of a keyboard. a keyboard consists of many parts, made from different materials, form factors, keyboard constructions, etc. on top of that, mods are applied to improve sound and feel, based on personal preferences.

back to your question: even though both use same switches, the other parts of the keyboards, like case, pcb, plate, presence of foams, stabilizers, keyboard constructions, keycaps, and related mods, still affect the outcomes.
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Oh I see. Recent seen a lot of offers for Aula & Leaven keyboards and they are really cheap when compared with branded ones.
babylon52281
post Mar 17 2025, 09:47 AM

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Anyone tried budget keebs like Leaven, Thunderobot, Zifriend, CPS? Any of these are good for beginners?
babylon52281
post Jun 2 2025, 02:33 AM

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Heeyyy guys,

I finally plunged into the world of mechanical keebs. rclxm9.gif

Introducing the Thunderobot K104S, a basic barebones full sized keeb with ARGB and hotswappable Red Switches. Yup, it has all 104 keys and for only RM 99
user posted image user posted image

My reviews usually are long winded but my brief usage is... its better than my HP office keeb, with the Red switches (Thunderobot, TR branded) & excessively lubed stems.
user posted image user posted image

It has very vivid RGB lighting that shines thru the ABS keycaps seen here after I remove the top case (trying to look see how to mod)
user posted image

Prolly will do a more indepth review (from a beginner noob perspective) but maybe in a separate tered so I do not overwhelm the page here. At least I hope it can be a guide to those who might be put off by the cost of this hobby.

I know decent keebs goes into the hundreds RM even just for 75% ones but as a beginner I think starting on a basic budget model suits my needs and allows me to explore more. Yes the reason for it being this cheap due to using ABS keycaps not PBT, and it doesnt have tri-mode or built in battery so its a deskbound keeb but it works for me, my PC dont travel so why should my keyboard be. For some reason the cable is Type C detachable tho.

Also doesnt get to the "marbly" or "creamy" or "thocky" feel/sound of those far more expensive keebs. But I am wanting to change that with more questions on modding later...

This post has been edited by babylon52281: Jun 2 2025, 02:52 AM
babylon52281
post Jun 5 2025, 02:50 AM

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A fuller review of my Thunderobot keeb is now up
https://forum.lowyat.net/topic/5526067

Bear with me as Im just a noob beginner at this.
babylon52281
post Jun 6 2025, 08:33 AM

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QUOTE(horns @ Jun 6 2025, 12:49 AM)
nice. hopefully after you have grasped basics with the current board, you will conitnue to explore, experience and experiment more.

every part in a mkb is a huge topic on its own. just take your time to pick things up. coupled with personal experience, it will help you shape the right ideas on qualities of parts, so that you know how to choose them.

.. and while hotswap options are common today, there are valid reasons why people still get that 3.7-kg seal with soldered pcb options. (the reason why i link this one is to demonstrate how rich of options that a typical custom kit can have, minus foams)
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Yea I get there is such thing as endgame keebs for those veteran keebers who knows exactly what they want and if such a product drops it would have perfectly suit their needs without much further modding.
These keeb makers also pretty much knows which target buyers their after so I guess they would see no reason to make it hotswap.
babylon52281
post Jun 7 2025, 04:18 PM

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Question on case foam modding as I understand it gives a better sound profile to budget keebs like mine.

Im a bit confused which is the material to go with so I will just layout what I have on hand:

IXPE PE foam (3mm)
user posted image

Expanded PE EPE foam (5mm)
user posted image

Thin HDPE foam layer (1mm)
user posted image

I do have concern if any of these will create static charge and kill the PCB as its not going to be shielded ontop of the case foam.

I got these free so I dont mind chucking either any after selecting the one to use.

This post has been edited by babylon52281: Jun 7 2025, 04:20 PM
babylon52281
post Jun 8 2025, 10:12 PM

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QUOTE(horns @ Jun 7 2025, 11:18 PM)
it's up to you to experiment.

in general, foams are optional. they are used in few areas in a mkb: gap between plate and pcb (plate foams), between key switches/stabilizers and pcb (switch foams), between pcb and bottom case (case foams), or between top and bottom housing (force-break mod). however, you should first find out the purposes of using foams in mkb, e.g., sound dampening/enhancements, vibration reduction. these foams affect typing sound and feel. if not done right, they can introduce undesired side effects, some kits are not meant to use foams to be good, and the presence of foams kills their signature characteristics significantly.

note that the choice of material and thickness depends on the desired sound and feel, and also other components in a board, e.g., denser foams like poron can offer more dampening than eva, only use thin plate foam when you use a thick top plate.

there are modular prebuiltsthat include all pre-cut foams in the market. it's a good thing, because at least you can either use or take out any of them to get to what you want to achieve.

do not use foams that are too thick that cause undesired pressures to the pcb. it might lead to weird behaviors to a board.
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It seems my keeb has 3 layer below the switches
user posted image

And below it has quite a bit of space. I will use it for a while, get the hang of it, and see again if adding foam will help.
babylon52281
post Jun 8 2025, 10:58 PM

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QUOTE(Maxieos @ Jun 8 2025, 07:25 AM)
Just for a beginner budget question , where to find a shop which allow to test typing experience on mkb switch ? I doubt shops will open box and let you test.

If there is no option to test the typing experience on each switch  ,which one should be a basic choice ?

Would like to have office type of keyboard example the look iKBC CD108 but can't find who is selling.
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

Thanks
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So far been to various ALL IT and Thundermatch has quite a few choices to test. For my case, last year I was in Tokyo so I had the chance to go test all I wish in Akiba. Particularly, Yodobashi had nearly all the keyboard models on sale with demo units to test. That was how I used them to narrow down the type of switch I prefer.
babylon52281
post Jun 10 2025, 09:55 AM

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QUOTE(Maxieos @ Jun 9 2025, 09:58 PM)
The shop you mention all are particularly custom brand with key cap.Mostly all shop doesn't allow you to open box for the keyboard to test.They will not open a logitech for you just to type.
ALL IT and Thundermatch which outlet have keyboard to test ?
They only display laptop , phone , accessories , gadget speaker audio.No keyboard.Even only 1 keyboard on a PC demo set.

If without typing , which one is close to membrane keyboard with tactile feedback and activation force ?
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I go to their flagship stores ie Lowyat, Midvalley KL, Sunway, where they have gaming rigs setup, so I tried those gamer setup keebs as well some of their demo keebs. At lowyat theres other big stores got demo too; viewnet, sri comp, etc
babylon52281
post Jul 10 2025, 04:37 PM

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QUOTE(horns @ Jul 10 2025, 03:58 PM)
over the years, i bought and keep various lubricants for this hobby, in pure oil/grease forms. visually, only few still look the same in terms of color, i.e., krytox gpl series and similar. (krytox is just a brand name. there are manufacturers that produce similar lubes)

this is mainly due to its inert characteristic that is immuned to chemical reactions. since it also covers various viscousities in the series, krytox gpl is the better lube choice. recent scouting at tb showed that it's very easy to obtain genuine krytox gpl now. it's much easier compared to previous timepoints when only few tb sellers started to package and sell them in much smaller containers, e.g., 10g, 50g, etc.

as for the rest, they have gone through chemical reactions due to storage environments. some have turned brownish. i can still use them for other purposes. (e.g., lubing house-whole parts)

note that for krytox gpl 105, do not be surprised that when you order 50g, you only get 25ml. this is because the density of krytox gpl 105 is about 2g/ml.
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Most petroleum based grease will turn brownish when oxidise and becoming darker as it oxidise longer. Once expose to air when use its only possible to delay rapid oxidation by stuffing into airtight bag with anti oxidiser agents (like in preserved food packets). So far I been doing that to preserve my CPU thermal pastes and afaik it works.

And to prolong further can store inside freezer (not fridge as it can create water vapour inside the sealed bag air unless its also vacuumed out).
babylon52281
post Jul 10 2025, 09:32 PM

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QUOTE(horns @ Jul 10 2025, 07:00 PM)
right.

by the way, petroleum-based lubes usually are not suitable candidates, because they might eventually cause plastic degradations over time. if you applied the lubes on switches and stabilizers, especially those hard-to-find, rare stuff, you are introducing potential risks to them in the long run. it's not worth it imo.

also, if possible, use food-grade lubes only. (for health safety reasons) however, everyone's bottom lines are different. it's really up to the user to decide.
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Food grade is basically carbon based, in a way similar to petroleum based. Will faster degrade. More hardier grease would be silicone based. But this will also suffer dry out eventually.
babylon52281
post Jul 11 2025, 09:51 AM

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QUOTE(horns @ Jul 10 2025, 09:44 PM)
technically, you should read more here. i previously used the same sheet to source for similar products (pure oil/grease) with the same base oil. they were cheaper back then. however, recent price checks made me think we should just stick to  krytox gpl

edit: basically krytox gpl is pfpe base oils thickened by ptfe (to become grease)
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Yeah I not too familiar with keebs grease, only work with industrial grade stuff on daily basis but they also share the same symptom of degradation as you described if keep too long.

I see some utubers using WD40 for relubing switches.
babylon52281
post Aug 1 2025, 10:38 PM

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Here is a mod tip. I have been looking around for materials to mod my keeb and recently found that Mr DIY sells EVA foam sheets for RM 3.90

user posted image

When compared to online sellers for bottom case EVA foam, their prices cannot fight above.

I noticed not all Mr DIY has this, but since theres plenty of them you can hunt around few shops will bound to find one.
babylon52281
post Aug 6 2025, 08:29 AM

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QUOTE(horns @ Aug 5 2025, 11:45 PM)
right, there are various local options that user can try out. you might like the outcomes of these foams.
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For case foam such as above, what do you good folks usually used for adhesive to stick to the plastic case? PVA glue? Thin double sided tape? UHU glue?
babylon52281
post Aug 6 2025, 11:37 AM

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QUOTE(horns @ Aug 6 2025, 11:16 AM)
for the convenience to replace them, we normally do not stick them with adhesives. at least i don't do that anymore.

each foam material has their own characteristics. with different parts, e.g., plate materials and key switches, they can produce different outcomes, that you might or might not like.

of course, it's up to you. in the early days, we used to stick eva foam to plates to minimize vibration (eva foam with double-side tapes)
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Oh I see, so the idea is to make it not hard to remove ya. Then I might want to try gam sekolah (clear glue that squeeze from small bottles) hmm.gif
babylon52281
post Sep 19 2025, 12:48 AM

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Heeyyy guys! Did my first keeb mod over the long weekend;

The long gist is here
https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...ost&p=112164204

In summary, after few months using the Thunderobot K104S I still didnt like the linear switches that came with it so I changed those OEM TR Reds to Kailh Box Whites
user posted image

I was nearly complete changing over until some issues made me stop to take out a few Kailh switches that I put on to find this
user posted image

Long story short, I found out the rear pin is slightly bit wider than the usual Outemu types switches (inc the keeb OEM switches) which cause it unable to slot into the connector. That was why that rear pin was squished. Reading around I never heard that Kailh switches had this problem doh.gif

Kailh rear pin width 0.9mm
user posted image

OEM Cherry type switch pin width (both) 0.6~0.7mm
user posted image

Lesson learnt.

Next mod I did was to put 2mm thick EVA foam sheet into the bottom case that I bought from EcoShop.
user posted image

Cheap as dirt and I have a huge piece leftover.

Summary: I didnt realise keeb parts swapping isnt as universal standard and I would be more cautious next time I change anything, safe to say this huge surprise nearly ruined my appetite for modding and perhaps it was fortunate that I much prefer typing on those Box Whites to ever want something else for now.

Oh yeah, for those interested my K104S unit is using BYK 916-00997A MCU controller
user posted image

This post has been edited by babylon52281: Sep 19 2025, 01:08 AM
babylon52281
post Sep 19 2025, 01:04 AM

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What really helped me along the way was an online key tester that put on screen each key press at real time. Thru this I know if I had good switch connection and testing for any that failed (I found 2pcs that stop working after ~10 presses).

The tester looks like this
user posted image

Also during the changeover they key press settings went wonky and I didnt know how to fix it so I reset the keyboard in Windows by reinstalling the driver

user posted image user posted image
That solved the problem and the keyboard functions as normal again.
babylon52281
post Sep 19 2025, 11:37 AM

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QUOTE(josh5671 @ Sep 19 2025, 09:44 AM)
i did notice that on my old tecware phantom 104.
because it seem like using 3 pin + 'sleeve' type hotswap (i not sure what it call in english)
example from internet:

so the normal mechanical switch cant fit
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Hi, thanks for sharing your point. From my limited experience Im not really sure what would be considered 'normal' switch dimensions, however measuring some of those Outemu samples I have and the keeb OEM Reds, their about the same for both pins (0.6~0.7mm).

Kailh website & documentation didnt really mention the size difference altho their switch drawings (which omitted the pin widths) showed both pins arent the same size (in red lines)
user posted image

I wondering if this a Kailh thing, or just the Box switches, or perhaps compatibility from one make to another isnt as drop in plug & play as I had assumed. I dont know much about keebs to know what is what really.
babylon52281
post Sep 19 2025, 12:55 PM

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QUOTE(josh5671 @ Sep 19 2025, 12:27 PM)
additional info for the socket i mention.
its more to sphere/circle(top pic), compare to normal hotswap socket narrow/rectangular
hence normal narrow pin too wide to fit.

so far i dont know where to find switch replacement for that phantom 104 other than that default outemu red (not dare yet to buy switch for testing)
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In my search for switches I find Outemu are widely sold and comes with a lot of variety types. These are super cheap to buy a few & try around (which I did on a key tester)
user posted image

It also helps you compare the pin sizes of these switches to your keeb Reds before you buy the whole lot, so you dont repeat my mistake. Haha



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