Oh, I understand where you are coming from now about the RCD in the socket. Would be nice to be in the USA where the outlet is GFCI protected, and only a few dollars more costly only.

But like you said, the RCD is already in the DB and that is enough. I just want to point out that the MK RCD socket version is 30 mA, and that is not very protective in a wet area. Wet areas are to have a 10 mA RCD, and this is especially important to me when I am using power tools outside. That's the main reason why I have the RCCB extension with a 10 mA trip level.

How I wish this MK RCD (aka GFCI) socket costs a few dollars more than the normal MK socket! It’s more than 700 bucks! 😅

Equivalent is PDL Elimit 10mA about 85
https://s.lazada.com.my/s.3SNja

I actually have one of that but it’s more of a tester than a wall socket. Don’t know if PDL makes one like MK’s 2 gang one.

That would be uneconomical in MY config. Whole house 30mA RCD for economical option, or one 30mA each per phase for 3ph supply would give general good coverage, and add 10mA for wet floor things as necessary.

At 600-700/RCD socket, you could get a few pcs of 10mA RCD // RCBO for that price.

This post has been edited by ceo684: Nov 30 2021, 08:43 PM

Agree with you.

I just have a rccb at my DB box. It’s made by ABB, model: FH202 AC, same as this:
https://s.lazada.com.my/s.3Sv4X
Specs: https://new.abb.com/products/2CSF202006R125...h202-ac-25-0-03

So it’ll be tripped at 30mA, the Rated Residual Current, correct?


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The more I know about my home electrical circuit the more angry I become with the electrical contractor who did my house wiring! After grouping the various power outlets in my house into their respective circuits, I just discovered that my two washing machines, one dryer and one water heater, in addition to four other power outlets were actually all connected together to a same 20A circuit! I’m surprised that they had never tripped the 20A ELCB all these years! 😅😅😅

Erm.
The RCD in your pic is showing Icn of 0.1A (100mA)?
Its 0.03 if 30mA.

https://shopee.com.my/product/403384113/11846935209 this is the correct spec one. 2P 63A 30mA.

This post has been edited by ceo684: Nov 30 2021, 10:59 PM

I think so. That means my rccb will only trip when the residual current is 100mA? If so, that’s bad news! 😔 I may have to change to one that’s rated at 63A, 30mA to be on the safe side.


Sharp eye you have! I didn’t check carefully…🤦‍♂️ TQ

Good day, tumpang thread kejab

I haz got my first multimeter, it's uni-t that cost me 50 bucks, I just wanna know if my dumbass has fucked up the meter already, I buy this to do one thing only, to read the lamp current drawing off a compatible ballast.

Here is what I do, I just do what some utuber did anyway



I turn the dial to 6 o'clock, which says "10A", if I understand correctly it mean it would read up to 10A and anything above would blow the fuse after 10 seconds? I've tested several lamps that ranging from 0.37A to 3.25A operating current but all it does is 0.00 on the LCD, the lamp do fire up normally. Or maybe I connect the wrong way or something? Any inputs from otai sifus will be appreciated.

What lamp is this? Flourescent? LED?
If its a CFL at ~0.18A the 10A range could be out of range ie too low to see shit. Try the 200mA range at your own risk

Another thing, the output waveform from ballast can be unreadable or grossly inaccurate for a non true rms meter. You should be in series with the input 230V side of the ballast.

This post has been edited by ceo684: Dec 2 2021, 02:43 PM


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Yes, I did tried the mA reading but all ended up showing 0.00 on the LCD, I do use the ohm setting to check the fuses and it seems to be reading ok? It measures something then quickly drops to 0.00. This is due to the fact that I suspect I blew the fuse from improperly operating the thing, like at the mA volt position I measure something as big as 247v which resulting in OL "overloading"

It's for some old HID lamps, the highest one will draw 7A from the ballast, for some lamps I don't have the ballast designed for it anymore, so I found some that were originally designed for other lamp types but it were overdriving them very slightly and some were underdriving it which resulting in ballast overheating also not good for the lamp due to them operating on cold cathodes mode, that's only basing on the spec on the ballast. Need to get some reading to select the best option, I do however have the details for the lamp operating current and voltage.

This post has been edited by Bug Juice: Dec 2 2021, 04:08 PM

you are lucky you can still post here!!!



I would get this meter if it is capable to measure both AC/DC amperage!!!

I wasn't be able to get the readings of amps draw so I gave up. Because I suspected some ballast using the wrong label to run different wattage lamps, like manufacturers trying to save cost by making one ballast for 40W fluorescent lamps, then they also put a different label on the same ballast to run 20W lamps which severely overdriving a smaller lamp, they are the same thing with different label but they don't care since it could light up both lamps but doing so will kill the lamp and overheat the ballast so much quickly.

I've tried various settings and it never went pop so I'm safe, at worst I may just trip the circuit breaker.

i would buy from this manufacture if they really do like what you mention...

a 40w supply is much better if the load only draws 20w compared to a supply that only gives 20w!!!
correct me if I am wrong altho I am no engineer but I know my stuff

sorry to resurrect this thread but since it's 2024, can recommend which uni-t model to look for motherboard and electronic trouble shooting ? i am more of a hobbyist so looking at budget around RM 150 range

thanks, found it. similar requirement with ts