Car batt pls get a battery tester. The current (CCA) remaining is in few hundred amps and no basic multimeter can withstand (maybe max 10A only), even a half dead car battery at 200A also will blow up your meter twenty times over before we go into "voltage under load" condition.

https://shopee.com.my/product/51048683/6713...38-1614695768.9
The uni-t auto range meter is easier to use than the manual range select models. It cost more like 58 bucks but for the price able to do capacitance test.

This post has been edited by ceo684: Mar 2 2021, 10:38 PM

Fluke was too expensive, I usually work with AC 230/415V, need to see AC amps so I got a Kyoritsu clamp meter, works very well for AC amps. Clamp meter usually for noncontact amp measurement and wont be able to do the finer stuff like capacitance test.

For finer work like what TS described the usual multimeter with probes from uni-t eg UT33-A will be good enough.

Essentially..the meter u need will be based on what kind of measurement u intend to do

AC A >10A use clamp meter
Small AC A or DC A below meter threshold (usually 10A max, could be less!) can use the normal multimeter
Big DC A need meter that can support

AC V/DC V normally V is very easy to measure both types also will work

Resistance ohm also common like V, both also can

Capacitance only better multimeter have it. Clamp meter seldom have this. Uni T 33A, Kyoritsu 1009 also can.

Although imma Kyoritsu girl myself coz used to using them in uni, whilst my dad is more of a Fluke person.

This post has been edited by ceo684: Mar 2 2021, 11:09 PM

Basically the minimum clamp meter you should ever use is a Uni-T. Insulation of the meter will be suspect if no name meter. NCV test. Some are special model w a smaller clamp for tight spot.

All the above desktop application you can use digital multimeter.
There is no one size fit all. It really depends on what scope one does.
Some function overlap. Some are specific to that meter type.

The fundamental differences between the normal desktop meter and clamp meter are AC amps and capacitance measurement.

Clamp meter (being indirect) can measure big AC amps. Desktop meter (direct) will probably go kaboom above 10A. Indirect still ok for electrical, better w true RMS accuacy.
-- Direct probe current measurement (in desktop meter) is for finer electronics work: much more accurate but the range is small.


Desktop multi meter can check capacitance (usually), clamp meter not covered.

Below is Kyoritsu clamp meter. Does 1000 AC A, V AC, V DC, resistance ohms and continuity. NCV indicator works anytime an AC V is detected in close proximity.


Below is knockoff Sunwa (pirated Sanwa) only does up to 0.25 AC A, V AC, V DC, resistance ohms, crude hFE for transistor, and continuity.


This post has been edited by ceo684: May 4 2021, 09:58 AM

Multimeter will work fine for the above electronics testing application.
Clamp meter only if you wanna measure AC amps in your DB box. Multimeter being direct probe will not withstand big AC amps. Itu sahaja.

Brand wise any Uni-T will work fine if you don't wanna spend too much. However, some features like auto ranging, 10A DC amps, and capacitance may only be found in higher model.

RM40 below UNI-T UT33D+ can only do V/10 A/Ω - manual range NO capacitance

RM125 SANWA DIGITAL MULTIMETER CD800A - 600V/0.4 A/Ω/100 μF capacitance
RM130 FLUKE 101 - 600V/NO A/Ω/100 μF capacitance
RM120 Kyoritsu KEW1018H - 600V/NO A/Ω/200 μF capacitance
RM150 Kyoritsu 1009 - 600V/10 A/Ω/100 μF capacitance
RM170 Kyoritsu KEW1021R - 600V/10 A/Ω/1000 μF capacitance

RM85 UT202A clamp meter - 600V/600 AC A, NO DC A/Ω/4mF (4000μF) capacitance. If you need bigger capacitance testing you can look at the UT 203/ UT 204, they have even higher Capacitance Range for these as compared to the UT202A.

This post has been edited by ceo684: May 4 2021, 10:33 AM

Wah flexing. this for work?

Yup, used to play around with my dad's company issued Fluke. But lower range la. Not ur model.
Sometime then I got my own Kyoritsu

I dabbled in electrical a bit used to sell & commission inverters, automation sensors.

For detailed reading on CAT I II III IV see https://content.fluke.com/promotions/promo-...yguidelines.pdf

There will be a max safe rated voltage for each multimeter per CAT category.

This depends on the unit. Need to check spec sheet. Some can have lesser insulation on the probes. It will be stated on the unit where applicable, or where u plug into.

Example of this meter and referring to the fluke PDF above, this CAT III rated to 600V, means premise based three phase 415V also OK, safe to measure 415V equipment and interior wiring,
but CAT IV (TNB grid/outdoor connections) is only rated to 300V so can only use for 230V measurement for that use case, 415V TNB grid/outdoor connection (following the CAT VI type rating) will require a higher rating i.e. CAT IV 600V or better meter to be safe even though the meter technically can measure 600V on CAT III but safety wise its not guaranteed for CAT IV use case.

The amp rating of this meter also rated as 1000A (AC) only. No DC amps.

For electronics applicable should be a CAT I, as Fluke says higher CAT also no harm. But the CAT rating should follow the intended usage esp for electrical high voltage* 230/415V.
*HV as relative to 9V smarttag batteries, otherwise kena kecam by 66kV 132kV folks.

This post has been edited by ceo684: May 12 2021, 03:22 PM


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Do NOT work on the live DB if you don't have any idea what you are doing in there.

Current Measurement
You can carefully position the clamp not to disturb the wires in the DB and be 100% mindful don't simply poke here poke there.

It is used in residential to troubleshoot AC that die off.. WH load amps.. getting a feel of 3 phase balanced or totally imba circuit assignment.
Usually I used them for commercial work/inverter load monitoring upon commissioning

NCV sufficient, follow with a 2nd test on voltage just to be sure.
You need to understand the concept of LDL (live dead live), prove the equipment works to measure, prove the dead circuit is truly dead reading, prove the measurement is repeatable on live again.

https://www.fluke.com/en-my/learn/blog/elec...voltage-testing

Clamps are for measuring AC amps under load safely. It is NOT a test by itself. It is a measurement.

Why usually at DB? Because its easy to access all the live wire.
There is no better spot (logically) as:
1. concealed wiring = need to tear down the whole wall
2. device on the other end is fixed in nicely = meaning there won't be enough space to slip in a clamp.
3. flexicord L and N cancel each other out = meaning forever 0A reading
4. Fundamental of Clamps = can only work for AC amps measurement when you can isolate only one leg.

Theoretically, you can use a clamp to check full load amps before the compressor motor jams up or sth along those lines.
Other than that, the fluke 101 is kinda like an overpriced A-class.. you get to check voltage and continuity with it. Cannot read current.

If you want to poke around AC.. I'd recommend the Kyoritsu clamp (KEW 2117) over it. Autoranging so lesser chance to blow up.
There you can see.. ahh WH take up 16A..
got voltage checks
got continuity test to see whether fuse blow

Coz voltage will be 230V all over the house unless something is wrong.

Magnetic straps are accessories but not needed.
The CAT III or better rating is the one to be concerned about. Just in case butterfingers.

This post has been edited by ceo684: Oct 14 2021, 11:21 PM

AC = aircond.
WH = water heater.

For troubleshooting it could come in useful to see whether the AC (aircon) motor able to run or it tripped off (condition failed to start, reached Imax, and the AC circuitry cut off) kinda thing. Also it might come in useful to determine if you should shuffle heavy appliances if you're maxing out one circuit (case in point: ideally kitchen sockets should be of sufficient ampacity rating to support all the heavy appliances and not running close to redline 19.9A on a 20A rated MCB on looping circuit)

Mostly any meter will work for continuity test.. basically to ensure from appliance metal body it has good body-to-E, and no continuity from body-L and body-N (just to verify the appliance is not leaking).

Uh yes the 101 is auto-ranging. My thought was distracted by the mention of other Uni-T's (some of which are still manual ranging) earlier in the thread -- and therein lies the legacy problem of the user need to remember to start with the largest range and move down to smaller more appropriate range.

The direct competitor for the 101 will be the Kyoritsu 1009 (CAT III 300V basic model w/o LED backlight) or Kyoritsu 1021R ( CAT IV 300V / CAT III 600V, more sensitive model w/ backlight). Sanwa CD800A (ori not fake Sunwa) also OK- CAT III 600V.
Personally no harm in getting either one of them in this paragraph.. if you like fluke, go for it.

There's a difference in the leads..Fluke, Kyoritsu, Sanwa ones like "wearing baju kurung" only the feet (lead tips) are exposed minimally for 3mm.
Many others especially those generic no name ones.. technically are like "wearing tube top" only (whole probe contact is exposed for a good 12mm) and therein lies the danger.

This post has been edited by ceo684: Oct 15 2021, 01:09 AM


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Most welcome Yes Kyoritsu is well-regarded brand in the meter industry.
The 1021R is made in Thailand.
Comes w/ batteries in the box.

Typically it will beep on every button you press..or every click of the main dial. Its good practice to double check the meter settings and mode is correct before you begin to use it.

Test leads options are there if you dabble in finer electronics and stuff, but generally the ones that come in the box are already pretty good.

Typically, switches and sockets should have just enough slack and clearance for sticking test leads, its wired with stiff wire so it will hold position once you massaged out the wires.. no worries on that. Usually they won't give drooping lengths because "too much wire" is hard to get in the backbox.

This post has been edited by ceo684: Oct 16 2021, 01:34 AM

Whatever current went IN on hot(s) did not return OUT on N is causing RCD tripping, or rather, even TWO RCD tripping means you (DEFINITELY) have a leaking device/melted socket/plug /wires incorrectly wired are touching earth (lately this miswiring issues are very common - not sure intentional sabotage or just pure noob workers wiring power strips and plugs incorrectly) etc.

Need to troubleshoot by isolating circuits - off all and turn on one by one until you identify the problem. The RCD should be able to hold up with 0 final-circuit MCBs turned on.

The problem with desktop DMM amp measurement is you need to run current in series - i.e. through the meter itself to measure amps - safer with clamp.
The touch at in and out N will not work for current because you're measuring in parallel.
Running current through the meter directly produce a lot of heat.

This post has been edited by ceo684: Oct 17 2021, 03:53 AM

IKR. Look at this idiota's work!
Nowadays buy new home really need to tear down every switch and every socket just to ensure that they are all wired correctly.

Some customer place the wires are not even screwed in at the terminal. They just popped out once I open the socket up

This post has been edited by ceo684: Nov 26 2021, 08:12 PM


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This plug seems like it didn't even get a Sirim sticker
But yeah, in the market there's barely passing and better made plug tops and sockets.
I recommend MK. Good stuff and technically not super expensive.

Sockets E2757 or S2757 about rm4.50-5, diff is whether u want frameless or picture frame flush type.

Plug top for high draw device use MK650 duraplug. About 5.50 ea only.

There's subtle diff in tolerances - like the plug top fuse holder grips like hell vs weakling fuse holder from other ciplak plug tops. Loose connections cause fires. It is also important to cut the wire lengths and strip to the correct mm as the cardboard template to achieve a "perfect fit" in the plug top. I had a similar plug top meltdown coz idiota installed it all 3 wires equal length, 1st problem. Led to 2nd problem, it pulled down the fuse holder and created airgap arcing.

This post has been edited by ceo684: Nov 27 2021, 03:12 AM


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Equivalent is PDL Elimit 10mA about 85
https://s.lazada.com.my/s.3SNja

That would be uneconomical in MY config. Whole house 30mA RCD for economical option, or one 30mA each per phase for 3ph supply would give general good coverage, and add 10mA for wet floor things as necessary.

At 600-700/RCD socket, you could get a few pcs of 10mA RCD // RCBO for that price.

This post has been edited by ceo684: Nov 30 2021, 08:43 PM

Erm.
The RCD in your pic is showing Icn of 0.1A (100mA)?
Its 0.03 if 30mA.

https://shopee.com.my/product/403384113/11846935209 this is the correct spec one. 2P 63A 30mA.

This post has been edited by ceo684: Nov 30 2021, 10:59 PM

What lamp is this? Flourescent? LED?
If its a CFL at ~0.18A the 10A range could be out of range ie too low to see shit. Try the 200mA range at your own risk

Another thing, the output waveform from ballast can be unreadable or grossly inaccurate for a non true rms meter. You should be in series with the input 230V side of the ballast.

This post has been edited by ceo684: Dec 2 2021, 02:43 PM


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