2010 Hyundai Tucson Front Suspension parts.

I commented something regarding the above in another lowyat thread.

Attached below are pictorials of some parts in question.

1 )Front Spring & Strut;



2 )Front Stabilizer bar assembly and;



3 )Front Lower Control Arm and Steering Knuckle;



Enjoy...

this web correct. myself got handful experienced jor.
the other web told u terbalik rite. i know the reasons.


we play pressure becos it no cost. change suspension require dollar spent

Yea, that's what I was thinking too along the lines of lower tyre pressure gives relatively higher grip than higher tyre pressure, everything else being equal.

Having said this, it bases purely on 'tyre engineering' or properties.

Could the writer approach this subject of over-steer/under-steer corrections from the perspective of vehicle suspension dynamics (which we ignore totally) during turning/cornering, which may cancel, neutralise or over-run grip effects of lower/higher tyre pressure?

For all we know, the writer could be right ?

Btw, does higher tyre pressure results in higher spring rate of a car suspension spring system whilst lower tyre pressure results in lower spring rate of said suspension system?

This post has been edited by zeng: Dec 31 2021, 11:46 AM

i dont know much about vehicle suspension dynamics or motion ratio, maybe you should email the writer to get your answer why he will put higher pressure at front to overcome understeer

from my experience going through different kind of road including track, too much pressure will cause the tyre not being grippy at corner and at straight it will be bumpy as well, and you will risk the tyre burst when it get higher than the designed air pressure, higher pressure do get you lower rolling resistance though

running lower pressure will allow more part of the tyres in contact thus more grip, but pressure too low will cause the wheel spinning on tyre sidewall while cornering and you will risk your tyre ripping itself off the wheel, on normal driving you might experience bouncy ride because of pressure and soft tyre sidewall

i have experiment with both and i use 33-35psi hot pressure for track day and 40psi front and 37-38psi warm pressure for normal/high driving, and it doesn't really help much in solving understeer or oversteer issue, or maybe a very minor effect, but from the perspective comfort,

tyre pressure doesn't affect spring rate, spring rate is the properties of the spring, unless you change the spring or the spring worn out/damaged, the spring rate will remain constant regardless your tyre pressure

personally i refer to this post https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=1110130 for more precise fine tuning, at the end of 3rd post there is the explanation on entry, mid-corner and exit understeer/oversteer and ways to overcome it, which i find it quite accurate since i can play around with the damper settings on track

but all these tuning and adjustment can only help you to a certain extent, if you did everything as told and your car still under/oversteer then that is the limit of your car/tyres and you are driving above limit, is time to look at your driving style instead

This post has been edited by amduser: Dec 31 2021, 08:08 PM

Not sure if I understood/interpret your position correctly, do you mean to say the pictorial by writer is correct?

@amduser may be right with his statement and experience above, which I generally concur .....
i.e the pictorial on understeer/oversteer corrections are not correct and indeed terbalik.

Besides in a vehicle turning or cornering scenario, increases in tyre pressure results in higher spring rate (on tyre contribution) that leads to tyre grip reduction.

Decreased tyre pressure correlates with lower (tyre) spring rate that leads to tyre grip increase.

From the viewpoint of vehicle suspension dynamics in a turning/cornering, @amduser's position is still valid imho.

This post has been edited by zeng: Jan 4 2022, 01:17 PM

many not realize. originals article base on racing slick not street tyre.
saja copy paste to post so make us all upside downed

another reason is becos of posche website maa.
everything become correct when u put reverse gear

so zeng ur way is correct. dont hesitate.

regarding over-understeer. play with tyre pressure on avanza quite strong effect. weight reduction also affecting very much

Is it, on an Avanza?
Ok, will give it a try on my Avanza as I can feel some over-steer right now.
Rear tread depth is low though at around 2 -2.5 mm (at about 100-105k kms usage).
Front tread depth now is about 3 -3.5 mm at about 83k kms usage.
Right Front outer edge wear more than inside edge and Left Front like a difference of say 0.5 mm due to previous mis-alignment I think.

This post has been edited by zeng: Jan 5 2022, 09:55 AM

the key is pam front wheel correctly. twist steer at shopping mall simen type car park no squeeze noise = just right.
then increase rear wheeel accordingly.

the difference between front vs back is just 10kpa my final results

My last known or pumped tyre pressures some 2 months ago were:
275 kpa Front

255 kpa Rear.

Any suggested tyre pressure values?

before weight reduction F270 R230 superb grippy easy control

after buang 3rd seat & spare taya, tend to understeer so F260 R270 is perfects.
the rest full ori never align wheel since bought

When you buy and install brand new tyres on your car(s), beware of brand new tyres with Tyre Conicity defects leading to vehicle pull to one side, despite 'perfect' wheel alignment works being done.



Source:
Diagnosing Tire Pull
by www.tirerack.com

This post has been edited by zeng: Jan 7 2022, 01:38 PM

Wow you both really like really hard pressures.

becos van uses tall side profile

Car without installing Rear Shock Absorber set - See how the Rear Suspension behaves!
21 s.
Have a laugh pl...



This post has been edited by zeng: Mar 7 2022, 11:28 AM

Hi sifus. Please help me out here 😞.
I drive a perodua myvi 2nd gen which has torsion beam at rear. Went to do alignment today and mechanic told me my rear toe in totalling both side to 1 degree. He offered 2 solutions.

1. Change the whole rear axle / torsion beam costing around RM650 Inc installation.

2. (For my understanding) Add shims / washer at 1 of the wheel bearing/ nut hole. To compensate the degree.

Note:
Car has not been in an accident , only minor rear bang/light collision middle not side.

Can any sifu give me some opinions, since toe in will degrade tyre faster right.

Huuh...... Rear Total Toes of 1 degree both sides combined.

Mind sharing the print out of the alignment read outs?

That 's going to eat up the rear tyres really really fast right?

How's your tyre life so far?

Do you experience rear axle instability on rough road surface, especially on turns/curves/cornering?

Yes, replacing the whole rear torsion beam is one option technically.

For RM650 it is probably a used second hand from the kedai potong/scrap yards??

If so the replacement might not be accurate also giving you another set of wrong alignment angles??

If it is new torsion beam from Perodua may be worth trying.

Shimming the rear torsion beam is another option which I personally prefer, problem is I have difficulty in finding a competent and reasonably-priced mechanic in Klang valley to do this kind of job on my Avanza.

Let us know if your mechanic is good and competent on shimming rear torsion beam delivering cun cun good alignment reports.

Here is a link on shimming of rear torsion beam axle on a 2012 Hyundai Elantra with reasonably good results.

https://www.hyundai-forums.com/threads/do-i...7/#post-1984049

This post has been edited by zeng: Mar 16 2022, 09:40 PM

dont see the total toe, see the toe at each side instead, for your case added shim or washer seems to be better choice unless your torsion beam damaged badly then only you change

or you can go to another workshop and have it check, if have you have 1 degree toe in you should experience understeer and excessive tyre wear on the outer thread of the tyres, or the rear of your car will push to one side while driving if the toe is imbalance