RM8.7k is pretty decent for C1 65. Where to find this deal? The cheapest I can find is RM9.8k.

Agreed. 8.7K is pretty decent if they're from the reputable stores. Cursory search through Lazada & Shopee saw most of them at high 9K.

During my C1 days there were a few stores on Shopee and Lazada that were selling cheaper than the big chain ones, cheaper and got their stock earlier too. One store called Kronos location in Pahang, logo look like orange color circle. Then there's another store in Cheras. Was tempted to go with them, until the voice at the back of my head reminds me it's safer to go with the big chain stores. They stand to lose their reputation if shit hits the fan. These smaller stores with no track record can easily close shop and nobody even know if they're legit or not.

Took a look at Desa Home's current C1 55" pricing now, and it's still higher than my September 2021 launch price!

I guess my constant nagging them for the C1 stock info works, "here, take this C1, we'll throw you a good price and freebies, stop bugging us!"

Just kidding ya Jeanne of Desa Home, wherever you are. Love you guys <3.

This post has been edited by KomradMikhail: Jan 8 2022, 10:23 AM

Lazada.

sorry just notice is the CX series lol no wonder so cheap

CX also gooding no need say sorry haha

You won't go wrong with the CX as well 😆

ya... different not much i guess.

Not much difference, slightly better brightness on C1 ( the same case will be between C1 and C2 later). Only difference I see is firmware & software updates, which includes better HDR tone-mapping graph.

It was unfortunate that wasn't the case for C9. Due to C9 using Chipset 018 + Switch chip to handle is Dolby Vision and high framerate video (see HDTVTest Vincent Teoh's excellent explanation here: https://youtu.be/7BjTdErfJI0 ), the C9 could not do Dolby Vision 4K120. May not matter if you're exclusively gaming only on PS5, since PS5 does not support Dolby Vision 4K120. Would only matter if you game on XSX and on RTX 3000 series cards on PC.

Either way, the CX is a good choice if you want to save up.

My personal policy is to get only up to one generation behind model if you choose to go that route. Example, forgo the C1 and go for the CX. Since it's already announced that the C2 is coming this year, I would only forgo the C2 and go for the C1. My reasoning is that, LG tend to slowly cut off support for older models once newer models are released. If there are some unforeseen defects, like the HDCP 2.2 bug as reported by Vincent again here: https://youtu.be/GI-ebazGJ4I , it will mostly take LG's priority to release fixes on more recent models. Hence why I recommend to only go back at least only one gen behind, to maintain support for updates.

If none of that matters to you, you dont care about 4K120 Dolby Vision gaming for example, and you're happy with 4K60 you can always go even cheaper by getting the A1 series OLED by LG. Careful though, they wont have 4 HDMI ports, only 3 ports, and only 4K60. Wont matter that much if you're only using PS5 or if you have an HDMI 2.0 4K60 capable AVR.

Just need to be sure you wont miss out on VRR (Variable Refresh Rate) features you wont get if you choose to go one tier down. If none of that alphabet soup means anything to you, you're probably not going to miss it.

ALLM (Auto Low Latency Mode) is thankfully included on the lower tier A1 models, because OLED panels exhibit low latency themselves by their nature of being OLED, self-lit pixels turn on and off so fast and so completely, OLED has the lowest latency out of all the TV panel technology out there. You hear the term GTG on PC monitors or standard TV panels, GTG meaning hoe fast the pixels on the panel go between gray-to-gray when switching between states, affecting latency. OLED has no GTG because pixel speed or pixel response is so fast, it's instantaneous.

Others can chime in for other TV technologies like QNED, QLED, QD-OLED, or other brand's offerings.

My ultimate endgame TV? Currently it's Samsung's 2022 Micro LED TV. But first I need to get a bigger house to fit that 89 inch behemoth (smallest size available), not to mention more saving up every month. Until then, I'm happy with my C1.

This post has been edited by KomradMikhail: Jan 10 2022, 11:44 AM

This Tv is probably around usd 100-150k. Price of more than a condo😂

With that budget I rather build a mini home theatre with proper sound system.

99" Samsung MS1A price

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1620..._class_hdr.html

This post has been edited by Kahlamx: Jan 10 2022, 12:42 PM

DV4k120 is not a die-die must have feature. You can still do HGIG 4k120, which gives you very close results to DV.



And it's 2022, people still can't differentiate panel response times and input lag. 2 different things, please don't lump them together.

This post has been edited by SSJBen: Jan 10 2022, 03:04 PM

Maybe if future can have QD OLED monitors that are 16:9 and not aggressively curved

Cheap OLED TVs.....how bad could it be......right? Right?



There's only so much corners you can cut. The right move is to get in at the right feature-set and quality-set, at the right price.

What are those, you ask? That is why it's important to learn up and keep up with what technology, what feature set are included, and if it is paired correctly with the price.

In the end, it's NOT about price. Unless you're very loose when it comes to what you lose for those cheap prices.

This post has been edited by KomradMikhail: Jan 10 2022, 01:15 PM

It's a "moving target" unfortunately, due to the nature of how fast things progresses in the AV scene.

I still remember the time I was championing DTS for myself being a LFE-fan and bass-head , and then there was that custom assembled Samsung Mini LED nearly display 10 years ago that was either made for video billboards for high-end corporate clientele. To the point where 3 years ago Samsung Mini LED has shrunk down (from a video billboard size that is) to the size of.....a wall in your house. Purchaseable by billionaires with a fetish for all things techno-futuristic, but still not available to the common folks like us because of the price, and the power consumption (not to mention the real estate required to house a wall-size Mini LED panel).

Look where we are now? In 2022, Mini LED is now considered "Meh!" superseded by Micro LED!



Maybe by the time it becomes affordable to common folks like us, it'll be a Nano LED tech running 8K. The mind boggles.....

i am using yamaha A820 receiver which is using HDMI2.0A so is LG C1 good for now? Planning to upgrade receiver next year but this year i wanted to get a good OLED TV.

You may not even need a new AVR.

My AVR is only 4K60 capable. I use the eARC feature on the LG C1 to pass the audio from the C1 to the AVR via the HDMI eARC port, HDMI2 on the LG C1.

Connection-wise, it's whatever your source is, connect it to one of the 3 free HDMI ports (3 instead of 4 since one will be taken up by your AVR for audio return channel or ARC) on the C1. Make sure your AVR is connected to the HDMI port marked as the eARC HDMI port.

The idea is to leave the video data transmitted via your sources to go through the LG C1 unmolested and let the audio data return to your AVR. That way you get the full benefit of all your display is capable of, and not downgraded by the AVR. You're only letting your AVR process the audio data through the audio return channel ARC, your video remain untouched.

I used to think I need a new HDMI2.1 capable AVR. With how messy HDMI 2.1 standards now is, some AVR are marked as HDMI 2.1 but some features inherent to the 2.1 standards like ALLM and VRR are not even available, but marked as "available in future firmware update". I dont buy things based on future promises, I only get them once it is readily available and present. Since I'm only processing the audio on the AVR being pass through by the LG C1, and my AVR can already do what I need (DTS X & Dolby Atmos), I dont have to upgrade anything.

You will need to look up your own unique set of equipments to see if your situation requires anything differently.

A820 doesn't have eARC. All Yamaha receivers prior to Axx60 series despite being HDMI 2.0 receivers never received an eARC update eventhough on paper it can support it with no issues.

You can either:
1) Connect all sources to C1, use only ARC to pass audio back to the A820. By doing so, you're limited to lossy audio only.

or

2) Connect all sources to A820, you can still access lossless audio but you'll be limited to 4k60 only when connected to the C1.


My opinion, go for the 2nd route. Not like PS5 has VRR (yet) anyways and games that are 4k120 aren't really 120fps anyways.

Saw a 55" Panny JZ1000 on offer for RM6k only, that's cheapest and decent 55" OLED i can find at my local stores now

anyone using that here? I got a XsX, so I'll be able to utilize all the bells and whistles of HDMI2.1

only thing concerns me is Panny aren't exactly well known for releasing updates and patches on time, and their future OLED TVs all will be outsourced to 3rd party, seems like TCL will be handling it

This post has been edited by greyshadow: Jan 11 2022, 03:30 PM

So far all the hype and attention are on the JZ2000 series.

Very hard to find much info on the 1000 line.

Someone in my circle of friends has the JZ1000 and IIANM he was looking into upgrading due to the JZ1000 only goes up to 4K60. And he's heavy into XSX, not into PS5. And I quote him saying to me "want all the checkboxes ticked green on his XSX." I could always ask him, or ask him to come over here to describe his experience.

The JZ1000 is pretty good. I'd consider Panny models if they have a bigger presence, better distribution and stock availability. Panny also have released a proper 4K120Hz with working VRR update for their JZ series. . Better late but proper VRR than releasing a half-working VRR like Sony.

The Panny models are also the most accurate in terms of image quality, out of the box, without the need of calibration. Personally I'm not that hard into calibrating, I always add my own personal preference to the final custom user setting that results in color punchier image, hence not color accurate, not the flat PQ preferred by professional calibrators.

This post has been edited by KomradMikhail: Jan 11 2022, 05:30 PM

ya it seem to be best option to go for 2nd option. Thanks