What gearing combination range you use to climb?
Thanks, glad i did wear because i notice some motorist keep constantly spitting out of the car windows and even motorcycle rider.  Last week another motor dude keep spitting saliva all over places down the road as if he was having flu or something, i was at the back cycling and have to change lane to avoid any of those flying particles. Thanks to my mask and full protected glasses...quickly go home taking bath and clean my bike.
Its actually easy to breath when using dedicated mask for cycling, find a PITE Mask with side port vented hole which allow a good air circulation going in.

My chainrings are 42t-32t-24t
cassettes 11t-40t

For the steepest ascend i used Front 24t/Rear 40t to climb (pedaling cadence are the highest, and to maintain climbing & forward)
If the gradient was decreasing a little i would shift down to 36t Rear maintaining at triple chainring to gain some speed.

Me just a noobie on mountain biking.
My MTB tyres are slick type. (because all the while I just cycle on flat tarmac/asphalt)
Just recently, I got cat-curiosity to try hill biking for a change.

mine is a 2x11 Shimano XT gear.
38t-28t, cassettes 11-42t
I never really need lower gear ratio. Anything go below 0.65 is kinda overkill, I usually use up to 28t front 32t rear only. MTB these days going 1by or 2by chainring setup, they usually lacking on flat speed gear ratio. I tried speed flat tarmac at 38t front 11t rear, it is still not enough lol.

Tyre is the one play a major role if you try to ride on mud road. For slick, Steep tarmac road is fine, they will grip it. It is the mud road you need better tyre.

My chainrings are 42t-32t-24t
cassettes 11t-40t

For the steepest ascend i used Front 24t/Rear 40t to climb (pedaling cadence are the highest, and to maintain climbing & forward)
If the gradient was decreasing a little i would shift down to 36t Rear maintaining at triple chainring to gain some speed.

Me just a noobie on mountain biking.
My MTB tyres are slick type. (because all the while I just cycle on flat tarmac/asphalt)
Just recently, I got cat-curiosity to try hill biking for a change.
I think I m the only person going up/down hill using slick tyres.

Do you think its dangerous or hazardous for downhill using slick tyres?
The hills trails which I'm on by the way is mostly concrete cement type but some parts the cemented road are cracked/broken/ chip away. (by nature & motorbikes, etc)
Nevertheless, I can say some section are well maintained or newly paved concrete cement.
And Some areas only exposed soil or unpaved.
Do you think could skid when travelling down? ( i'm worried if rains or wet after rain)
Do you think by saddle down and lower the tyre pressure when down hill be lot safer?

These are Only my 3rd trip.
On the 1st trip (est.160m elevation), I rode RB (yes, on RB I can go up, with gearing of 52/36 with 11t-34t) & my son rode the MTB, but we didnt go as far & high as the 3rd trip.
I scared to descend (bola kecut) on 1st trip which I push bike all way downhill.
2nd trip (est.185m elevation) I went solo.
3rd trip,I went solo. I made two big climbs, firstly I climbed to 217m which left me breathless, panting & feet down to push bike then I descended a bit and climb another part of the hill at 185m which I was able to cope)

Hope to do more rides up hill and safely.
Welcome to give me useful heads-up pointers & advises.

Nice! 40t x 24t has a good climbing gearing range.  My Giant trance has only at  11-36t rear and 40-23-22t front.  Depends on the slick tire threads and compound type, yes saddle down works to lower the center gravity.  Like Schwable tire brand are grippy on slicks but i would reduce the air in the tube for more grip but my friend very daring on slicks during downhills but definitely will skids during rain or mossy surface.  If you're intended to ride downhills on slick make sure reduce the air on the tire to get extra grip surface or make sure the suspension pressure are put to soft supple enough to avoid to much rebound on the tires when it hit the rocks or rough terrains which results of loosing grip.  But definitely do not lock up the brakes.

I am having a deore M6000 mix groupset. The cassette is sunshine and crankset is Prowheel Zephr.

Do you think it is better if i change to deore crankset? Not too sure if it is consider upgrade as Prowheel i believe utilised hollow bb too.

Thanks for the advice & tips 😀👍😀
I'll change the shocks setting from rabbit 🐇 to tortoise🐢
My MTB is on maxxis detonator silkworm 27.5 x1.50 tyre.
And my RB is on Schwalbe tyre.

Thanks for the advice & tips 😀👍😀
I'll change the shocks setting from rabbit 🐇 to tortoise🐢
My MTB is on maxxis detonator silkworm 27.5 x1.50 tyre.
And my RB is on Schwalbe tyre.

Wow thats nice beautiful view vhs1!  That was worthy hill to climb!    Oh yes make sure to tune/pump your suspension according to your weight.  To soft or too slow will cause your ride to be bouncy and wasted pedalling energy.

Didn't know you are into mountain biking.

Hehe. Yeah, Just recent only bru... 😊
Trying new adventure 〽️during the weekend.
Inhale some mountain〽️ fresh air.

Hehe. Yeah, Just recent only bru... 😊
Trying new adventure 〽️during the weekend.
Inhale some mountain〽️ fresh air.

Where u go off-road ?

Can I join?

The photo so blur can not see clearly. But when you go to see the real bike in shop you need to check clearly.

Example cut cost parts:
1. Brakeset => brake level + caliper + rotor
2. crankset
3. chain
4. cassettle

For the first bike I think buy 1 which budget below Rm1k alloy bike so later you think you really enjoy the MTB feeling then sell it and buy full suspension either => XC/trail/AM/DH.

So you can minimize the lost.

bro can intro below 1k bike? just doing simple riding around my house. light excercise

New bike day

wow..hard tail 130mm travel setting...

Custom specs  , bought the frame only

New bike day