not yet count in the front LED light and optional garmin / GPS mounting device. Too complex already.

Do you guys/girls mind of buying those shimano spare parts which country origin made in indonesia / china instead of made in japan / malaysia?

This happen a lot entry / mid level groupset. Those highend groupset still made in japan.

Especially those old bike which use 9 speeds SLX XT XTR people.

guys, possible to recommend mtb below rm2k? looking at the CAMP mdoels. are those good brands?

I haven't seen shimano parts made in indonesia or china yet. So far my old shimano XT and XTR parts still stamped made in Japan...except my SPD paddle thats says made in Malaysia. However if it was made in indonesia or china i would still buy it. Heck my high end SPD shoes is made in China, lol.

So far its a good intermediate bike, they have improve a lot. I recommend you save up extra +$500 and get a good grade CAMP models like this one: https://www.bicyclebuysell.com/item/518140/...ed-hubs-airfork

Oh btw this one fits nicely with your budget and it has great components on CAMP brand under rm$2000!...has Shimano SLX components
https://www.bicyclebuysell.com/item/516733/...-disc-brake27-5


This post has been edited by SupermotoXL: Jul 21 2020, 07:14 PM

Thanks for the reply. I see you mention the slx components. I can see CAMP has the Hydes 9.2 with Shimano SLX M7100 which is better right?. How does this compare to the Giant ATX Elite 1?

Just curious because I already saw people sell it. Like RT20 RT30 RT54 RT56 and some tourney TZ /sis, altus, acera and alivio groupset.

normally complete bike they will cut cost on brake set and crankset. You wont get full groupset for that.

Some will use sunrace cassettle and KMC chain too.

But those brand is ok.

This is the first MTB you want to buy?

Thanks for the reply too. I see the spec by their distributor mentioning full SLX groupset for this model.

Yeah my first bike.

The photo so blur can not see clearly. But when you go to see the real bike in shop you need to check clearly.

Example cut cost parts:
1. Brakeset => brake level + caliper + rotor
2. crankset
3. chain
4. cassettle

For the first bike I think buy 1 which budget below Rm1k alloy bike so later you think you really enjoy the MTB feeling then sell it and buy full suspension either => XC/trail/AM/DH.

So you can minimize the lost.

This post has been edited by pretty23: Jul 22 2020, 10:20 AM

Haha sorry will reupload as below.

Thanks for the suggestion. Will be visiting the shop to maybe test their lower range first before i purchase.

Sifus....


As a rider need to wear skin tight ke?

Thanks god I only like MTB.

if u ride roadbikes, must wear coz loose cloth can later injure u like blister, chaffing etc

and not to mention wind resistance

if u ride MTB, got pipu wear tight too, but mostly XC riders

if u do all mountain, get some baggy shorts and any drifit tshirt also can already, but wear some knee or elbow protector

can check camp Alpha 9.2 too
https://turbomad.com/bicycles/mountain-bike...ha-92-slx24-red

Not sure what other different vs hydes, biggest I see is crankset they use SLX.

lower range can try Camp Whizz. I think is RM1600 for 2x10 deore gear set.

This post has been edited by Boldnut: Jul 22 2020, 04:26 PM

Giant ATX Elite 1 looks very low end since it uses lower tier non-performance parts. Geometry doesn't looks aggressive for serious MTB....looks commuter style. Plus you're paying a lot for branded label.


Used to own Altus, Acera and Alivio groupset, they are actually really perform well too regardless where it was made.

This post has been edited by SupermotoXL: Jul 23 2020, 07:40 AM

No need bro, just wear casual. I ride my road bike with button redneck office shirt and mountain bike loose baggy pants everyday to commute to work. Felt casual enough to tour around town and many places and blend nicely with common town peoples. Still manage to cut-off few roadies along the road while speeding. Casual with slightly loose fitting like freerider MTB is nice because malaysian hot weather allow air to flow through our clothing and cool us down. After decades of riding and racing with my national team i felt stupid riding on lycras and thighs because of skin tightness and sticky stuff, i've donated my tight clothings to my road buddies. Here's how i looked like now.

Photos:


This post has been edited by SupermotoXL: Jul 22 2020, 09:04 PM

Last weekend my adventure in Mountain biking was climbing at 〽️ 215m of elevation. Had to stop and push a couple of times upwards . Some stretch with steep ascent. Old fag, weak legs. Very exhausting. Glad the legs and stamina are there to provide me the push. Next trip, Will go easy and less challenging route.

Good that you wear mask even riding. Last May 2020, MCO lifted I come out from my cave, I ride without mask because I use to think I cannot breath.

Nowadays I insaf already, wear mask already. It is actually not so bad with the right mask.

What gearing combination range you use to climb?



Thanks, glad i did wear because i notice some motorist keep constantly spitting out of the car windows and even motorcycle rider. Last week another motor dude keep spitting saliva all over places down the road as if he was having flu or something, i was at the back cycling and have to change lane to avoid any of those flying particles. Thanks to my mask and full protected glasses...quickly go home taking bath and clean my bike.
Its actually easy to breath when using dedicated mask for cycling, find a PITE Mask with side port vented hole which allow a good air circulation going in.

My chainrings are 42t-32t-24t
cassettes 11t-40t

For the steepest ascend i used Front 24t/Rear 40t to climb (pedaling cadence are the highest, and to maintain climbing & forward)
If the gradient was decreasing a little i would shift down to 36t Rear maintaining at triple chainring to gain some speed.

Me just a noobie on mountain biking.
My MTB tyres are slick type. (because all the while I just cycle on flat tarmac/asphalt)
Just recently, I got cat-curiosity to try hill biking for a change.
I think I m the only person going up/down hill using slick tyres.

Do you think its dangerous or hazardous for downhill using slick tyres?
The hills trails which I'm on by the way is mostly concrete cement type but some parts the cemented road are cracked/broken/ chip away. (by nature & motorbikes, etc)
Nevertheless, I can say some section are well maintained or newly paved concrete cement.
And Some areas only exposed soil or unpaved.
Do you think could skid when travelling down? ( i'm worried if rains or wet after rain)
Do you think by saddle down and lower the tyre pressure when down hill be lot safer?

These are Only my 3rd trip.
On the 1st trip (est.160m elevation), I rode RB (yes, on RB I can go up, with gearing of 52/36 with 11t-34t) & my son rode the MTB, but we didnt go as far & high as the 3rd trip.
I scared to descend (bola kecut) on 1st trip which I push bike all way downhill.
2nd trip (est.185m elevation) I went solo.
3rd trip,I went solo. I made two big climbs, firstly I climbed to 217m which left me breathless, panting & feet down to push bike then I descended a bit and climb another part of the hill at 185m which I was able to cope)

Hope to do more rides up hill and safely.
Welcome to give me useful heads-up pointers & advises.