yes it's actually ok to have that in this theme

this is my latest build, a 65-key 60%.



to me, for 60%, 64-key is really good enough.

i'm not good at measuring keyboards in details. i mean, it's still a keyboard. basically the main things that we should care for is the comforts when we type on them (e.g., sound. feel, typing angles), with the right keys at the right places (e.g., layout).

not everything needs precision, unless you want to design your own builds from scratch, with everything matches your own preferences. if you intended to do that, then there are a lot of variables that you need to check out:

1. key caps, there are many profiles, e.g. cherry, oem, sa, dsa, xda, mda, osa, etc. they all have their own measurements.
2. cases, they have different thickness, and typing angles.
3. etc.

normally the unit for key caps is u (e.g. 1u, 2u, 2.75u); 1u is about 19mm. it's a standard based on caps from cherry. different profiles usually mean they have different thickness, and heights.

the better way to measure actuation force is to use scientific measurement tools. the coin stacking way is a way for estimation, with the assumption that each coin weights the same.

we chose customs because there are better layouts, parts, etc. that suit our preferences. in terms of layout alone, i rather have a board with all the keys being typed on, than those with keys that i never touch once. as for your requirements, you can just get a good mkb and be done with it. you can still modify it like what niakulah did to his, to have much better typing experience.

technically, the question is for you to answer, not us. however, you should start somewhere, since you're new. hence i think it's ok for you to start with linear. leopold's red is not bad.

yes, i am a linear switch user hahaha

my personal picks of housings for linear switches (switch top, bottom):

1. nylon housings - cherry mx;
2. pc housings - jwk's pc housings, including those durock, and custom offers; and
3. uhmwpe housings - c3 tangerine rev 2. (the one and only, for now)

i like them because they have the characteristics that i prefer, compared to other brands:

1. relatively less stem wobbles;
2. relatively less switch top wobbles after filmed;
3. each with their sound profiles (pc is similar to uhmwpe tbh).

all the above shall be tuned before use. no stock switch can beat its tuned version. always.

note that the above are based on my preferences for linear switches. it doesn't mean others are bad.

.. and about switch films, watch this video, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RiecBEnHYPA

This post has been edited by horns: Aug 15 2020, 12:26 AM

+1

you should post it on mechmarket at fb as well.

not sure about the thickness, but the fabric tape that i use is the typical hansaplast that can be found everywhere. (use the sides, not the center part) you just cover a layer of it on the top part of wire tip.

hahaha it's better than throwing them all away

This post has been edited by horns: Aug 17 2020, 02:26 PM

first-person experience should help, especially with a tuned build. commercial boards usually just tell a small part of story, except for some good ones.

a good (or bad) typing experience is from the result of the combination of switches and other equally important parts in a mechanical keyboard.

wow they really took a while.

i'm not familiar with tactile switches. there are tactile switch users in mymkb that can share better insights about parts.

to me, yes, to the point that they make me like typing on them more.

the best part of mkb modding is customization, from a vast selection of parts and modifications.

that's one of the main reasons i build custom keyboards based on different parts and keyboard constructions. they all have different feels and sound, all made based on my own preferences.

dampening mat? they have both (a small piece of foam between plate and pcb, and a layer of foam under pcb; there should be a label stating that on the keyboard box)

wow.

it's fine, because a lot of people do not know mkbs can be made much better also.

yes, take your time to explore. most of them need first-hand experience. (previously i don't like clear housings, and i thought jwk housings were similar to gat ink's. however after testing out both, i like jwk's more)

i will stick to this epbt double-shot abs. i prefer the sound and feel of this combo, compared to jtk coca-cola.

all standoffs on this tray-mount case are covered with 1mm eva foam, to reduce the hard spot effect. the bottom case is stuffed with 2 layers of typical anti-slip mat obtained from mr.diy.

mkb users that have sufficient know-how will not go for commercial boards anymore. it's really easier for them to get parts that they want, tune, and build one themselves.

with the right basic tools, building customs is actually a relatively painless experience.

in that case, get those from leopold, varmilo, or filco. these are top-class commercial boards, in terms of typing experience. they are built nicely from inside out. remember to look into their respective features first before purchase.

time is gold alright, but time spent to fine tune something that you will use for a long time, with all the right parts, is a very practical investment imo. alternatively, you can also subscribe to experienced builder services. quovadis123 and GRexer both have good, no-nonsense experience and skills.

sweet

well, for a custom build, you don't need to diy it, or get tools to use them only once. builders that i suggested above can help you with that. they have all the right skills and tools for the job.

this is leopold's SP-Star grey linear, 67g. (prepackaged 110 units in plastic jars) the switch is fairly new, with some good characteristics, including tightly fit housing, and relatively less stem wobbles. it can be a good replacement for cherry mx.



for this round, i will swap the stock springs with 63.5g linear-rated ones from everglide, and use kelowna switch films instead of TX 0.150mm switch films.

clearly we are discussing the same thing, but with different contexts. mkb modding is our hobby, while you're looking for prebuilts. that's why we have different views, use cases, and conclusions.

you asked for suggestions based on my points of view. my points of view are based on long-term typing experience on different prebuilts and custom builds. i suggested the above because i have them, among other brands, and imo they are relatively closer to entry-level custom builds, but much cheaper. for instance, a leopold with mechanical switches has solid build qualities; comes with thick pbt cherry profile double-shot key caps (1.5mm thick), detachable cable, tuned stabilizers, and foamed at the right locations. you simply cannot find something like what leopold can offer in most brands, at that price.

however, it's really fine to get whatever you want. as long as you like it, it's all good

yeah, it's still cheaper to get leopold at shopee or local shops, compared to else where.

the key caps are thick double-shot. they are very durable for normal typing use case, and their legends will never fade away. you can always clean them up with soap and water from time to time. that's how we maintain our sets to always look new

edit: if you're interested in learning more about tuning a leopold, i can tell you this: it can still be tuned to get to its full potentials. for now, just use it as is first


This post has been edited by horns: Sep 14 2020, 05:46 PM

ok haha

key caps is a part of mkb that affects typing sound and feel. there are different key caps out there, which have different profiles, made with different materials, thickness, printing technologies, number of supported keys, looks, colorways, and price tags.

it's really up to you to explore your options haha

there are shops at lyp and digital mall that have demo units.

yes, try repair first. for most mkbs, usually it's replacement of faulty components, and it will work fine again.