What are your inexpensive options when brown switches, even with O-rings, are still too loud for your liking?

Lubrication isn't cheap. Neither are specific silent/quiet switches. Especially so, when you are opting for a keyboard from the budget end of the scale like a Tecware Phantom or a Cooler Master CK350/CK550, and the value of doing so isn't there.

I know some people mention soft pads, but is that even available in Malaysia?

Where would you suggest I go look for thicker o-rings, preferably ones that are more translucent as well since the ones I have seem to somewhat mute the LED emanating from the keycaps as well? And also the foam. I know what they look like from Youtube, etc, but I don't see them on Lazada/Shopee.

Thanks.

Looks like you MacGyver-ed yours. I was looking for something like a China-brand of EliteKeyboard's Landing Pads.

Thanks again.

one more thing i'd like to confirm with soldering, How much temperature should i set the soldering iron at for soldering the switches with a 60/40 solder wire?

Hi,

I need a mechanical keyboard with numpad but don't want it to be full size as it will be heavy and difficult to move it around.

I found the Leopold FC980M seem to be a good form factor for me but was wondering where can I try them out.
Any shops selling them?
And do other brands carry such form / size?

Bcos Leopold is really expensive.
Wonder if they comes in 2nd hand.

delivery will cost u USD13

you can try putting a small piece of fabric tape on the top part of both wire tips, then lube them with plastic-safe grease, like permatex, or superlube. i did the same to my space bar. there is no more tinkling sound even if i tapped very lightly on either side.

[attachmentid=10545923]

source: https://www.facebook.com/groups/MalaysiaMec...723804264522463

edit: about heat shrink mod, one friend in the mymkb group suggested that the heat shrink's length is reduced to 5mm from rama's 6mm to get rid of the mushy feel. i haven't tested this.

uh? there is no need to keep desoldering bro. you can test them out without soldering first.

for the o-ring mod, it's useful for silent builds mainly, and it's for plate-mount stabs only. don't do it for pcb-mount stabs. (the sliders are easy to get popped off due to full-clipping)

Yeah, definitely am not ready to pay as much for shipping compared to the product which might not even end up making a huge difference. Rather experiment with quirky mods and save the money for the eventual next keyboard/build

niakulah I saw you bought a  IKBC CD108 MX Brown , good in typing what are you modding ? Can recommend a any other brand or similar keyboard which have a same layout key as it ? For office use , mx brown with tactile , black color as basic need , do not need rgb and programmable keys since it's just for office typing.

what is holy panda closest to in terms of cherry mx?

Meaning to say, they are for "feel good typing" experience?

Heads up!
https://flashquark.com/product/genuine-cher...ed-stabilizers/

Hi sifus, I looking for 87 keys keyboard like AJAZZ AK33 which have standalone F1~F12 button but compact like 71keys keyboard.

The reason I want to skip AK33 if that I read the keycap size is not standard...

Can recommend any other brand/model similar to such design?

i posted here time to time with another account. Now change account because privacy invaded matter 

anyway i just built this keyboard
'
gateron brown with springs changed to 55g, switch film added, springs lubed with 104, stabs band aid+clip, 4mm eva foam between pcb/backplate and everything else lubed with 205.

A lot of building processes which I thought was easy, turned up to be not.  I made tons of mistakes and took very long time messing around with the keyboard  . Every thing is quite fun for me except the lubing part. 

The major mistakes i did were
- soldering quite a number of switches without the switches fully touching the PCB. Luckily i realized something was wrong before i proceeded to solder more switches. I learnt that it is very difficult to push the switches 'into' the pcb. My fingers are hurt now because of it. 

-cutting the foam to put between plate and pcb. I ended up giving up and put nothing in between the plate and pcb. Have to be very precise in cutting the foam to leave enough space for each switch and stabilizers, but I failed miserably. All the shapes i drew by aligning the plate to the foam were all incorrect due to the stretchy nature of the eva foam and also not drawing exactly at the edges using pen. I wasted most of my time here.    Here is the showcase of my masterpiece. 

I feel that Gat browns lubed are indeed overly light for me as oppose to be using MX Blues which I think is heavy. Might have to change all the switches to heavier ones in the future  

I had bought some 3mm LED bulbs, but havent soldered them yet. The led holes are at the lower part of the switches. I tested the leds through the holes with a lithium bat, but the effect is like very disappointing. All the letters/symbols are floating towards upper part of a key cap. I think last time someone asked the same question, but now how ah? I didn't know because I see the mx switches in razer mkb are all upside down one. XD

Also, the taihao keycaps im using dont have R0 1U Ctrl, FN, Alt and numpad 0 & R4 Delete, End and Page Down. I wasn't thinking so thoroughly before this. I think most of the keycaps set doesnt have these, am i right? I read some where people saying have to buy the ortholinear keycap set of a GB/preorder lol. Can any1 give me advice regarding this?

Cherry plate mount stabs just arrived.

Less than 3 weeks to get to me from US. Not bad.