come on you know it's a pretty good experience

for the weird key registering issue, i had such incidents when:
1. i over-tightened screws onto the case (tray-mount, so it might cause pressure to the pcb); or
2. when there is too much pressure on pcb from the foams, usually from bottom case; or
3. the pcb had direct contact to metal, and caused short circuit.

as for the stabilizer mod, usually i just put a layer of ptfe tape on the side where the lock is located. the thickness of ptfe tape is 0.25mm. usually it will not move anymore after application. for stabilizer tuning, it's still about making sure the wire is straight, with both tips lubed and pointing at the same angle, and the housings and sliders are lubed.

very nice journey. forget the imperfections, no one is perfect.

i wish u tania !

hi there, am new here with zero knowledge on mechanical keyboards.

Is there any shops in KL people can recommend to test out the range of keyboards switches to know what suits me best?

Can someone recommend me a few budget beginner full-size (with numpad) keyboard to start of with?
perhaps a cheap one, and another slightly pricier one that you think its worth to spend a little more on.
usage for daily work comp, not much a gamer, just casual one so no need super good one, most importantly a nice typing experience

my best guess is that it's probably the area around the bottom row. (i.e., row 4 and bottom row)

this has something to do with how they are wired. not sure if you can find the correct matrix that got affected. imo the better bet is to desolder all switches and start over.

i do leave space for a chance to take off plate-mount stabilizers, because i usually screw them up.

to make things easier for self repairs, use true 63/38 solder wires like kester or mechanic, and a good desoldering pump. it helps me a lot especially during the switch desoldering process.

if possible, use true 63/37. it's supposed to be much easier to suck it up. i use 350c, touch the joint with tinned soldering iron for a second or two, then release the primed desoldering pump. just did it just now to fix my backspace on this 60%.

the true 63/37 solder is supposed to be relatively easier to solder and desolder, compared to 60/40, or lead free solder.

the problem is that some brands, like the one you're using, labelled everything as 63/37, but its actual content is determined by model number, especially the variant of the same model number. (model a, b-1, etc.) to avoid such confusions, just grab something like mechanic hx-t100. you can find it at shopee.

imo the slow pump action might mean it's cloaked. just clean up the desoldering pump regularly. soldering irons with temperature control are more like convenience. i don't think it's your issue.

edit:

for now i'm using kester (flux 245; core 58; 0.6mm). it flows very nicely. i learned to feed solder at a certain length for each joint to avoid overflowing.

Cheap tecware tkl phantom ok ma?

uh? it's always fine to skip. there will always be the next best thing in the future

you can try putting a small piece of fabric tape on the top part of both wire tips,

you can start with switch and stabilizer tuning. there are plenty of guides at youtube.
yes, try this one. so far i have done this for my gk64 and z70ultra. it's really effective.

later i will try to do the rama's shrink tube mod also, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r3da8CMV2_M
it's a mod by our friend at mymkb. no this is to minimize the tinkling sound when wire tips hit the upper part of the stem hole when you tap on the edges of space bar. this sound is not obvious for shorter modifier keys, but they are there too, if the wire tips are not tuned properly.

another similar mod is is from rama (video above).

no idea about this. i just grab them from taobao

Tried my hand at balancing stab wires from the stock plate mount stabs on the tecware phantom elite. Although it helped a bit but the longer keys (spacebar in particular) still sinks a little and makes a tapping sound when softly tapping on either side. I assume it's because I'm not balancing the wires properly but I wanted to know if it's worth it to swap out the stock stabs for something else. Seems pretty hard to find any plate mount stabs in the first place with the cherry ones being sold out almost everywhere leaving only OEM brands. If only the phantom elite pcb accepts screw-in or pcb mount stabs...

Anyone know where I can get the IKBC F87 Black version? Seems like only white version is available. Are there any alternatives to this keyboard at around similar price?

i posted here time to time with another account. Now change account because privacy invaded matter 

anyway i just built this keyboard
'
gateron brown with springs changed to 55g, switch film added, springs lubed with 104, stabs band aid+clip, 4mm eva foam between pcb/backplate and everything else lubed with 205.

A lot of building processes which I thought was easy, turned up to be not.  I made tons of mistakes and took very long time messing around with the keyboard  . Every thing is quite fun for me except the lubing part. 

The major mistakes i did were
- soldering quite a number of switches without the switches fully touching the PCB. Luckily i realized something was wrong before i proceeded to solder more switches. I learnt that it is very difficult to push the switches 'into' the pcb. My fingers are hurt now because of it. 

-cutting the foam to put between plate and pcb. I ended up giving up and put nothing in between the plate and pcb. Have to be very precise in cutting the foam to leave enough space for each switch and stabilizers, but I failed miserably. All the shapes i drew by aligning the plate to the foam were all incorrect due to the stretchy nature of the eva foam and also not drawing exactly at the edges using pen. I wasted most of my time here.    Here is the showcase of my masterpiece. 

I feel that Gat browns lubed are indeed overly light for me as oppose to be using MX Blues which I think is heavy. Might have to change all the switches to heavier ones in the future  

I had bought some 3mm LED bulbs, but havent soldered them yet. The led holes are at the lower part of the switches. I tested the leds through the holes with a lithium bat, but the effect is like very disappointing. All the letters/symbols are floating towards upper part of a key cap. I think last time someone asked the same question, but now how ah? I didn't know because I see the mx switches in razer mkb are all upside down one. XD

Also, the taihao keycaps im using dont have R0 1U Ctrl, FN, Alt and numpad 0 & R4 Delete, End and Page Down. I wasn't thinking so thoroughly before this. I think most of the keycaps set doesnt have these, am i right? I read some where people saying have to buy the ortholinear keycap set of a GB/preorder lol. Can any1 give me advice regarding this?

same here hahaha

however, a temperature-controlled soldering iron, good solder wires, and a good desoldering pump allow me to manage my custom builds much easier now. still lack of practice, but can get the jobs done lol

Not good deal. Corsair and Logitech at that price have volume wheel, media keys, macros