oh ok. i haven't tried out this profile yet. maybe some days haha

right haha there are still few profiles that i might try out

for max comforts, i'm all about cherry profile lol

sweet

so that's how it looks like after assembly. is this mojo75 a r2?

very nice

not sure what to put on mine yet. mine is gasket-mounted r1. still sticking to tray-mount/bottom-mount/top-mount these days haha

ok haha hopefully i will experience the characteristics of gasket-mount builds soon

for tray-mount, i usually use eva-foamed aluminum plates (generic 60% aluminum plates that can be found easily at taobao)

you should ask this at mymkb fb page, https://www.facebook.com/groups/MalaysiaMechanicalKeyboard

as each of these products have revisions from time to time, there might be changes that make them incompatible. for sk/gk series, why don't you use their 5-degree-like stock aluminum cases? that might have better chance of full compatibility

ok the stock aluminum case is also 5-degree like, but maybe you like 5-degree more hehe

after tests, i think cherry mx hyperglide (with black nylon housings) is still living up to their reputation. it's similar to good batches of retooled black (relatively less scratchy than normal mx), but with improvements that double up the shelf life from 50mil key strokes, to 100mil. price wise, it's relatively affordable. (around 1.5myr each)

in terms of smoothness at stock, cherry mx hyperglide is no where near more modern sp-star and jwk. (to give a better picture, cherry mx < sp-star/jwick < jwk recolored) i compare these four, without gateron, because they have relatively similar wobble-free features imo. however, after simple tuning, it's similar to sp-star. (tested with krytox gpl 204g0, springs swapped to sprit progressive 72p, lubed with krytox gpl 105) note that as of this writing, newer batches of sp-star have increased amount of lube applied at factory.

as always, smoothness is not everything in mechanical key switches imo. there are other qualities in cherry mx hyperglide that i like. it's still my preferred base for custom switches, with relatively less stem wobbles, and no switch top wobbles. to me, the nylon housing produce decent and typing feel and sound, unique to cherry mx.

This post has been edited by horns: Jan 18 2021, 03:59 AM

Grexer might be able to help you out

things that we actually like might not be expensive.

in terms of practicality, yes, diminishing returns might happen once you go beyond mid-tier stuff. it's more obvious nowadays, because mid-tier stuff are getting better and catching up fast. still, some prefer to spend extras to go high end, for various reasons. it's just preferences at the end of the day

it's better to get from keys.my. well, they will have 5-pin, not 3-pin. the first batch was sold out; waiting for them to restock first.

it's likely that the spring weight being too light for you. i think.

i have limited experience about this. believe it or not, i only experienced 2 incidents that were related to key chattering. the first one was gateron red with stock springs. once springs were swapped, problem's gone. another one was suspected to be related to firmware or controller, but i am lazy to find out.

oh. 67g is almost like my upper limit of comfort for linear switches.

if the spring weight is not an issue, then the next common one should be dust getting into switches. however the chance might be even lesser.

maybe desolder, then replace it with unused key switches if you wanted to.

edit: as for the backplate, it's better to sand the rust off and repaint it. rust can spread with time, it's better to do it as early as possible.


This post has been edited by horns: Jan 24 2021, 06:20 PM

as of this writing, the popular trend for switches from China means those that come with low-weight springs (linear rated/two-stage normal or long springs). i call them low-weight, because their bottom-out spring weights are below my spring weight range for bottom-out force, which is between 60g to 67g for linear rated springs. sp-star/sp-meteor white (normal linear rated spring, 57g), pang hu's giant v4 (long linear rated spring, 58g), and jwick white (normal linear rated spring, 46g) are some good examples.

initially, i thought it's not ok to have such light bottom-out weights, as from past experience with gateron red, they are very likely to produce typos. well, i was wrong. somehow, with switches that have lesser stem wobbles (basically all of the above), it's ok to have low-weight springs. from my tests, they are really comfortable for touch typing, without causing mistyping (unlike what happened when i used gateron red) i might be wrong, but the only obvious difference between switches above, and gateron switches, is the amount of stem wobbles present in a switch. gateron has more stem wobbles, which means the stems have more rooms for free plays (i.e., less frictions to me), hence the key travels are much faster. this might explain why i always mistype with gateron red, but the same is not happening for sp-star white.

by the way, i lubed my sp-star white with 101/205 mix. thin lube mix like this doesn't affect typing feel and sound much, compared to stock switches. however, i still need to see if it lasts hehe

This post has been edited by horns: Jan 31 2021, 10:38 AM

right, for those who have read the post by walker about friction areas on cherry mx style slider/stem will make adjustments about their lubing techniques, which is similar to the video. note that for linear switches, we do cover all surfaces, including top and bottom of the sides of slider.

also, before lubing, it's better to clean up switch parts with cotton buds and IPA first, especially for those which have abundant amount of lube applied at factory.

no problem. personal preference dictates everything. although i try to describe stuff as objectively as possible, please always take them with a grain of salt.

recently, there is sudden influx of new spring types made available by existing and new vendors to allow us to have different sets of typing experience. however these changes in typing feel cannot be captured by videos, so first-hand experience is always important.

this is also why i look forward to meetups, as almost all of us do things differently, hence there are always variations between seemingly identical builds.

there are other layouts with numpad, like 1800, or nym96/melody96.

also, you always have the option of a separate numpad. with it, you will have more options than southpaw or full.

you can use any kit, as long as the pcb supports mx-style switches.

boards at that range usually don't offer good typing experience, unless you put efforts to make them better.

maybe you should start by stating your budget

ok

you get what you pay for.

there is another similar and funny trend that is happening in our community: buy good kits, but send them to random modders-wanna-be that do bad jobs, just because they are cheaper than experienced and responsible modders. what usually happened after that is: those modders screwed up, then owners went find and paid good modders to fix shits. it's a funny repeated cycle that happened many times, which can be made more efficient, by just sending the stuff to good modders in the first place.

a lot of people still don't get it: soldering/building/tuning is the single most important process to put stuff together, so that the boards can work nicely, according to individual preferences. one important note about good modders is that they are experienced, and will do qc before, during, and after the jobs are done. quality workmanship takes time, so there is no need to rush them. yes, they charge relatively expensive, because it's the fair effort cost for them to use their experience and time, making sure everything is good for your builds, not because they are famous.

so please, when time comes, at least pick a decent modder to help you with this. it's easy to get responsible modders for the jobs: there are identified modders with good skills who deliver good outcomes in mymkb fb page. please, help and save yourself from issues like brand new pcb with pads lifted; incomplete/bad solder joints, etc.

edit: besides good soldering/desoldering skills that minimize the risks of spoiling components on pcb, there are plenty of minor details during custom build/maintenance/repair processes that we very seldom talk about. (these are things that you will find out if you experienced and did it yourself) they are mostly situational and applied when necessary. experienced modders take care of these things.

i think it's important to put the above here as a general reference. i will shut up now.

This post has been edited by horns: Feb 4 2021, 02:17 PM