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 [V32] Lowyat.Net Mechanical Keyboard Club

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horns
post Mar 6 2021, 05:23 PM

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QUOTE(kona|kona @ Mar 4 2021, 01:49 PM)
fc750r in brown switch all sold out... i regret not buying it then
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ah too bad

i guess you have to look for alternative sources, as restocking might not happen

QUOTE(cryonic @ Mar 6 2021, 04:48 PM)
They advised me to video the issue. So for weeks, its like trying to use your handphone to videotape a mouse approaching the trap. I got fed up, and sold my so called brand new Ducky Mecha Mini to another keeb enthusiast who decided they can use it for parts. I was honest to the buyer on the issues. I also gave up of scraping the bottom case of the mecha Mini case (its a nice case actually). i simply want to get rid of this heartache because i really needed a new keyboard to work and had no spare to begin with. I took a peek at the back of the pcb only to witness the WORST SOLDERING JOB for a such a branded service which hurts me more.

I decided to turn this around and call this a blessing because in the process of going custom, i had a lot of learning while building new keyboard, i met friends and a few local sifus. I now belong to the  'Church of Milky Tops' and 'PBT Clubs'.  For now.

Elcheapo RM25 Plastic Case
Elcheapo Gateron Milky Black. 67G .Lubed.
Sandwich Foamed but failed.
PCB mount JWK Stabs 2U x2
PCB mount JWK Stabs X KBDFans 3U 
ePBT 148 keycaps for ISO and Minila layout.
Bface PCB. No Backlight. I hate RGB.
*QMK but reverted to WINKEYLESS to avoid issues because i cannot identify the board maker. Winkeyless? Ymdk? ??? God so many clones..

Soldering and checkup was commissioned.

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


I have not met any local minila users yet. Filco's Minila has some limitation for me, so i had to go custom. I will build another Minila... but this time ANSI because it was hard to find keycaps. GMK has yet to produce true JIS ISO keycaps. Special plate and the 3U for Minila was also quite hard t find.

Thank you HORNS. Thank you ALL.

- Sincerely
Young ISO Pirate Minila user.
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oh my. this is just not good, at all. i'm not sure why that seller didn't honor the rma properly.

yes, in your case, i believe it's a blessing in disguise. customs like yours are relatively better than most commercial options. parts that you use are not bad. the pcb is very likely from ymdk. they have both bface and qmk variants.

ansi layout is always better in terms of key cap set compatibility.


horns
post Mar 6 2021, 06:39 PM

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QUOTE(niakulah @ Mar 6 2021, 05:41 PM)
A good quality prebuilt. I've owned 2. 1 of them is my daily driver.

Supposedly not as good as leopold, filco, varmilo, but I can't personally confirm as I've never tried them.
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the differences are relative tbh. at stock, ikbc has plastic-kind of hollow sound, sometimes have less-than-optimal stabilizers (with wire rattles; this issue usually can be minimized with lube injection into holes into which wire tips are inserted; ikbc is similar to ducky imo)

leopold and varmilo are relatively solid, with relatively better stabilizers. another thing is the switches. i suspect that they go through additional processes (they feel smoother than cherry mx in most commercial mkbs)

i still keep all four of them (ikbc, filco, varmilo, and leopold). although they are not as good as entry-level customs in terms of typing experience, they are acceptable.
horns
post Mar 6 2021, 08:29 PM

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QUOTE(niakulah @ Mar 6 2021, 08:11 PM)
I'd be interested to compare my heavily modded IKBC to a Leopold one day. I'd like to think it would put a stock Leopold to shame.

My mods.

1. Replaced the stabs with Cherry brand stabs. Clipped. Holee mod. Bandaid mod. Housing lubed with 205g0. Wires lubed with Superlube grease.

2. EVA foam between PCB and plate.

3. EVA foam between PCB and bottom case

4. Spring swapped to gold plated 67g springs. Bag lubed with 105.

5. Switch stems lubed with 205g0.

6. Filmed with TX films.

7. Various other aesthetic mods.
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i was comparing stock. modded ikbc should be relatively better smile.gif
horns
post Mar 7 2021, 03:27 PM

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QUOTE(acmilan01 @ Mar 6 2021, 09:29 PM)
Thanks all for the advice,  Leopold and varmilo seem starting with rm500 if i want full 108 keyboard.
Not thinking to over my budget, will go find a shop try ikbc and decide.
Thanks.
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yes, just get stuff based on budget.

this hobby is about learning and applying the right stuff (e.g., form factors, layouts, parts, mods) to make typing experience better based on individual preferences. there are many good stuff in mkb, but there is no need to get too carried away also hehe

horns
post Mar 9 2021, 08:31 PM

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QUOTE(acmilan01 @ Mar 9 2021, 02:48 PM)
I get the reply from seller, cd108 v2 main update is revise cherry switch for longer life span,and double shot pcb keycap.
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wow they have cherry mx hyperglide now that's good to know smile.gif

edit: new cherry mx hyperglide has improvements that essentially double up expected lifespan of the switches up to 100mil key strokes


This post has been edited by horns: Mar 10 2021, 12:48 PM
horns
post Mar 11 2021, 12:58 AM

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QUOTE(ace-user @ Mar 10 2021, 10:40 AM)
R2 of KBD67 lite is up if anyone is interested smile.gif
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note that the wired and wireless pcbs use different firmware. other differences of the pcbs can be found at https://kbdfans.com/collections/kbd67-lite/...ducts/kbd67lite
horns
post Mar 11 2021, 04:19 PM

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QUOTE(ace-user @ Mar 11 2021, 01:57 PM)
Yup. What confused me was the kailh hotswap sockets for the wired PCB, did they use that for the R1 also? Does that mean I’ll have to use kailh switches with this board?
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outemu sockets limits to own switches, while kailh and gateron switch sockets support all mx style switches.

horns
post Mar 12 2021, 12:29 AM

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QUOTE(ace-user @ Mar 11 2021, 04:28 PM)
I see, then what's the point of them offering kailh sockets on wired and gateron sockets on wireless? :/
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er not sure (maybe it's part of business decisions), but they are both ok imo



horns
post Mar 12 2021, 12:12 PM

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QUOTE(ace-user @ Mar 12 2021, 11:40 AM)
Ahh i see. R2 won’t come pre-assembled so I’m kinda excited to build it, ordered the black one but now thinking whether I should change to transparent cuz it looks kinda nice too  hmm.gif
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haha why not both? imo it's a good deal, with one of the most complete parts that you can get in a kit.

kbd67 has different key board constructions in different iterations (v1 is bottom-mount; mkii is top-mount; lite is gasket-mount). i do hope they will make some lite with metal cases in future.

horns
post Mar 15 2021, 12:57 AM

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Attached Image

after months of hard work, Interest Check for ALEXI is now live. this was brought to you by our very own Hafiz Yusof at MYMKB.

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

horns
post Mar 18 2021, 11:02 AM

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QUOTE(alvinfks78 @ Mar 18 2021, 09:41 AM)
Hi Lowyat,

Excuse if reposting. Do you guys know why this phenomenon occur?

Keyboard from Mr DIY-
when press two button together 35% of the time one button will come out slightly later than the other. doh.gif .

Logitech K120 - don't have the above problem. press two button okay. Consistent
But Logitech got ghosting problem sweat.gif . CHEAP Mr. DIY no ghosting problem.
Use it to play fighting games.
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it's likely that the keyboard doesn't support nkro (n-key rollover)
horns
post Mar 18 2021, 02:16 PM

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QUOTE(ace-user @ Mar 18 2021, 11:23 AM)
Hi sifus, while waiting for my kbd67 lite to arrive (likely June) I'm looking for linear switches for my build. I'm currently using Gateron SMD Yellows and I like thocc sounds so I 'narrowed' down my choices in no order:

1) Gateron Yellows Milky Top Black Bottom
2) Cherry MX Black (Hyperglide)
3) C3 Tangerines 67g
4) Gateron Ink Blacks V2

While the Gateron Yellows are the cheapest, I don't mind trying something like the hyperglide or tangerines. The gateron ink blacks are the most expensive among all of them and I'm a bit hesitant to try them tbh.

Would appreciate any form of input from you guys smile.gif
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if the switch housing is made of nylon, it will give damped and lower-pitched sound. from the list, you have cherry mx hyperglide, and gateron milky yellow (ks-3 variants)

alternatively, you can look for sp-star meteor, also with nylon housing (57g, 67g)

pc and uhmwpe housings make higher-pitched sound

This post has been edited by horns: Mar 18 2021, 02:19 PM
horns
post Mar 18 2021, 06:01 PM

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QUOTE(ace-user @ Mar 18 2021, 02:32 PM)
I've never heard of sp-star meteor and my god that thing thoccs  drool.gif it's so clacky, is this a well known switch among the enthusiast? or is it rather underrated?
seems like it's quite hard to acquire also in Malaysia  sad.gif
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sp-star meteor is a relatively new switch, debuted since last year. sp-star is the result of the collaboration between japanese (design) and china (maker) to make switches for korean boards (leopold). they made kon-momo and nana, and the currently hot selling cyborg switches also (the one with housing that glows in the dark. literally)

yes, you can say it's underrated, because most people are still in the hype of jwk recolored haha

in Malaysia, afaik you can contact quovadis123, keys.my.
horns
post Mar 18 2021, 07:43 PM

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QUOTE(ace-user @ Mar 18 2021, 06:12 PM)
I'm actually looking at buying a kon-momo clone on taobao since i missed out on the GB haha
Found ks-3 Gateron Yellow (black top black bottom) on taobao too and maybe I'll buy some to try. Was looking for sp-star meteor grey but oos on all the shops in taobao, only whites available  sad.gif
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oh kon-momo has clone? i'm not aware of that. just be careful

maybe you just need to wait for them to restock. i'm ok with white. it's really softer.


horns
post Mar 18 2021, 10:22 PM

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QUOTE(ace-user @ Mar 18 2021, 08:27 PM)
ya and the clones look quite nice.
Ya I'll either wait for them to restock the meteor or I'll just go with the KS-3 Gateron Yellows (Full Black). I actually really like my SMD Gateron Yellows after lubing and filming them, smooth and good thocc  biggrin.gif
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in terms of switches, i suggest you get exposed to more, from different brands if possible. (cherry, gateron, kailh, jwk, and sp-star at least)

they all have different sound and feel, and some uniqueness (in the details; at first glance they look the same) just do this progressively. it's good when you decided to proceed with frankenswitches hehe

horns
post Mar 18 2021, 10:43 PM

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QUOTE(ace-user @ Mar 18 2021, 10:35 PM)
Ya I've been doing quite a lot of research, but macam not enough haha
Decided that I'm gonna buy the SP-star meteor white & KS3 Gateron Yellow from taobao then I'll sell whichever I dont like. Is the SP-Star meteor white pre-lubed/factory lubed? How do I remove factory lube before lubing the switches myself?  confused.gif
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online research is one thing. first-hand experience is more practical and important. it's better for you to use a switch as reference point (for linear, i use cherry mx red), so that you can differentiate differences of these switches.

nice smile.gif yes sp-star meteor is pre-lubed. you can use cotton-buds with alcohol (IPA) to clean it up.

edit: first-hand experience is the only way for individuals to get the actual ideas like switch top wobbles, stem wobbles, smoothness, spring noise, etc. (everything is relatively compared to reference switch). eventually you will get clearer ideas on what you actually want.


This post has been edited by horns: Mar 18 2021, 10:48 PM
horns
post Mar 19 2021, 12:29 AM

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QUOTE(ace-user @ Mar 18 2021, 10:57 PM)
I was using Cherry Mx Red stock previously and I very much prefer my lubed Gateron Yellows haha

Wa having to use cotton buds & alcohol to remove the factory lube seems so much work, then having to relube them again holy, will definitely take a while. My first time lubing switches I sat down for 6 like 9 hours straight lubing until I'm done lol
Ya reading and watching videos is one thing, but actually getting hands on is the only way to really understand and learn.
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lubed cherry mx red is much better for me. well, it's just preference, all good biggrin.gif

yes, the process of switch lubing is usually taking more time. i can only do 10 switches at a time, before my patience runs out. i always start with breaking in with a modular board; then open them up, start lubing with bottom housing (side rails, center pole, leaf), spring, slider, and then top housing, if necessary. finally, test them for relative consistency. try to get everything right before soldering, so just take your time.

i know some people can lube switches much faster, but i suspect they have skipped a lot of steps to achieve that. the outcomes are usually a hit-or-miss from my experience if i do it fast hehe
horns
post Mar 20 2021, 10:28 PM

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QUOTE(ace-user @ Mar 19 2021, 09:42 PM)
Today I relubed some of my gateron yellows that I feel were not consistent and switch out my normal packing foam I use for my case to an EVA 2mm foam. And my God the sound is so much different and more consistent. For one, the thocc is less compared to using packing foam and all the switches sound a lot more consistent and similar. Didn't know that foam material can make such a BIG difference. Learn something new everyday haha

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different dampening materials on different keyboad constructions will have different results (sound and feel). however, some don't even make significant difference before and after.

just pick what you like more smile.gif
horns
post Mar 21 2021, 01:41 AM

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having tested the switch for a while, i think this article is on-point for aqua/water king v3 from everglide, https://www.theremingoat.com/blog/everglide...g-switch-review (there are other interesting articles at that website)

this is the first switch that i think can be used unmodded. almost everything is ok, based on my preferences (no obvious spring noise; least stem/switch top wobbles; smooth) good stuff imo.
horns
post Mar 25 2021, 09:55 AM

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ALEXI Group Buy is live now.

form and details: https://forms.gle/y8AdtVTjzMn8KnTD6

- GB will be opened for 2 weeks (March 25th to April 7th)
- Price ranges from RM650 (base config) - RM885 (ultra setting)
- Slots will be flexible with an internal cutoff number
- First come first served




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