of the three, tecware phantom elite should be better for you, because you can swap its stock switches with other 3-pin switches later.

if you are interested in testing different mx style switches later on with one board, then don't get tecware phantom L. they use low-profile key switches, with outemu sockets, which narrow down limited options even more.

you're damn right hahahahaha!

thanks; i'm glad

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another small update about switch film vendors. note that this is an OPTIONAL item to minimize switch top wobbles, and change typing feel and sound. you CAN opt to not using it.

1. tx, https://txkeyboard.com/ (2 types of thickness, the usual 0.15mm and the new 0.125mm)
2. kebo, https://kebo.store/products/switch-films
3. deskey, https://deskeys.io/
4. thicc, https://maartenwut.com/product/thicc-films/
5. kelowna, https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=620073366941 (2 types; thickness: the double-layer HTV film is now 0.16mm (previously, 0.15mm); the previous MDI film is now EVA film, 0.3mm, similar to deskey's, but relatively cheaper)
6. kbdfans, https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=627414114157 (2 types; thickness: 0.15mm)
7. durock, https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=633069338401 (double-layer HTV film is 0.15mm; similar to kelowna's)
8. equalz, https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=634032504499 (material: TPU, soft material like deskey's; thickness: 0.18mm)

in general, PC films are hard, hence producing crispier sound; HTV is slightly softer than PC; and finally, MDI films are the softest, hence producing dampened sound.

you can swap the switches out, and replace them with non-clicky ones, like 3-pin gateron. it's a simple process.

imo 'preference' is the much better word for 'better' in terms of switch choices.

tbh, it's really up to you to decide which one you're after. i suggested tecware phantom elite because i think you might try out other switch types later on, and you can do it right away, by getting some and put them on.

hahaha it's meant for the eyes of regulars here mainly.

imo if the condition is still ok (meaning there is only minor deformation), you can salvage and reuse it. just test it out after install to see if it still works as intended. for tx films, i do reuse them if they are still in ok-ish conditions, and the outcomes are still ok.

there is a kbd67 mkii hot-swap with black ink polycarb case currently on sale at mymkb mechmarket, https://www.facebook.com/groups/MYMECHMARKET/.

alternatively, just wait for next rounds of kbd67 lite or whatever 65% that meet your needs.

right. as long as the board is tecware phantom elite series, full-size or tkl (and not other models), you can do that. this is because in elite series, they use kailh switch sockets, instead of the outemu switch sockets in their previous models.

you should also post this at mymkb fb page to get better feedback. maybe they can provide better comparisons with switches that you already have.

if you have a hot-swap board, the even better way to find out if you liked it is to try it out yourself. get a small amount first. if it's ok then get more.

ok haha then good luck (i still think you should wait for the next round)

don't feel sad. like niakulah pointed out, there are still plenty of options at the website

you should also put this on sale at mechmarket, https://www.facebook.com/groups/MYMECHMARKET

for building services, you can contact quovadis123 or GRexer for their availability. both are skilled and experienced. you can also find more at mymkb/mechmarket fb pages.

it should be just switches. just replace it. maybe your unit has few outemu switches.

this sucks. they're supposed to honor the warranty. it's ridiculous that they thought it's ok to do this kind of 'repair' (repaired unit is supposed to work fine, not like yours), instead of sending you the actual working unit.

ducky is a known brand. please pm the actual fb accounts, and tell your story to them, and see if they can help:

https://www.facebook.com/DuckyMalaysia
https://www.facebook.com/duckychannel

it's better for you to ask this at mymkb fb page. there are more active users that are well aware of alternatives over there

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getting more jwk v2 pcb-mount stabs from keys.my. this, and c3 v1/v2 stabs, are pretty much the two stabilizer options that i will stick to for builds with pcb-mount stabilizers.

once in a while, someone in mymkb fb group will conduct a gb for these. alternatively, just get them from those places that you mentioned.

this is usually due to uneven wire tips, bent wire, or warped key caps. to solve this normally we try to make wire tips to point to the same angle and direction, tune the wire to be as straight as possible, then apply the so-called holee mod (reference videos about holee mod are as follows):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qmOSSqpHAws
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aDX-jwbqie4

here is another new one, called tailor's stab mod, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2S61CynOwOc

basically all the above means to use soft material to make stab holes for wire tips smaller, so that the wire tips have less room for free plays. note that if the tape or thread is too thick or too thin, the result might not be what you want.

alternatively, you can also stick the foam/tape on top side of wire tips only, covering the whole tips. usually i just use 0.2mm eva foam with single-sided adhesive to do this.

edit: if you have a warped key cap, just soak the key cap into boiling water for 20 to 30 seconds, take it out and press both sides until it's cooled down. if this still cannot fix the warped key cap, get new ones that are straight.

This post has been edited by horns: Feb 25 2021, 05:17 PM

yes you should always test different ways to fix issues

the part that no. 5 is the culprit might be possible, but unlikely imo. it's possible because the housings were not secured properly, or the switch didn't sit flush on the plate/pcb. (not because of it being too tight)

haha just do whatever you want that you see fit

i usually test everything with a hot-swap board first. (e.g., gk64, kbd67, or melgeek's z70ultra) starting with stock, then depending on time allowed, i progressively test the switches with different tunings. finally i will make soldered builds with them.

fff is one of the better linear switches

right, the main goal about this hobby is always to find out better configurations for your board, so that it can give better typing experience to you, based on your preferences.

it's never about how cheap or expensive your kits, or parts are.

it really depends on areas that you're looking at. quality wise, expensive stuff are better, especially when they provide rare keyboard constructions. they are meant for collection purposes.

however, if you're like me, who wanna build reference bare bones from time to time, with new switches, new stabilizers, etc., unobtainiums like pcbs, plate options, will become a problem to the continuity of such projects.

well, i will still get some later on, because i wanna support the original creators, especially local creators. let's see if i had the luck

just go for leopold. in terms of values for money, i think it's better (compared to filco or varmilo):
1. good build quality, modifier keys with tuned stabilizers;
2. stock thick double-shot pbt key caps (1.5mm);
3. detachable cable;
4. local warranty;
5. standard key layout, so almost all key cap sets are compatible;
6. since it uses cherry plate-mount stabilizers, it's relatively convenient to change key caps.

leopold, filco, and varmilo are still undisputed in terms of good typing experience.