I also like the Peres area, even though I stay in Cheras still 30 minutes drive early in the morning to get there.

ah noted. no plans to change wheels yet, wallet not permitting lol.

I'm short, 65kg also BMI overweight category already
but if got consistency, sure can get results. my friend 2017 full marathon 7 hours, weighed 100kg, do MAF training been steadily reducing run times, recent KL virtual marathon 4:30 already, now around 75kg, do solo rides from ara damansara to kuala selangor and sekinchan 110-180km avg 30km/h, my idola now haha.

Ya bro... if I had money, I'd also find a small plot of land there (Peras) and live the quiet kampung life.

True, however I’d argue that having razor sharp tan lines is one of the hubris of a true cyclist.

Also solo rides can also be more mentally taxing resulting in less effort used to complete a ride. I ride quicker and stronger when I ride in a group.

Your perception of a true cyclist is a little different from the rest, I love to ride alone for many reasons but I would never say that true cyclists love to ride alone, this is a road cycling group after all

This post has been edited by lilredridinghood: Dec 1 2021, 10:18 AM

i ride alone in peres for few months, ppl start to doubt whether i have friends

Sometimes alone is good, can start whatever time you like and no need to stop as often. When I asked my friends to go Peres, they will said so early 630 ah, cannot later? Haha.

Can get some opinion, is it worth changing a 11-28 to 11-30 cassette? From a 105 to Ultegra?

This post has been edited by wintzen: Dec 1 2021, 01:39 PM

agree. i start at 645am, latest 7am.

11-28 to 11-30
depends on ur daily route, if u cant decide, keep 11-28 is good, 11-30 is long cage range.

105 to ultegra
just the shifting performance diff. if u mind that minor smoothness then go ahead lu.
unless u di2

Noted maybe just keep it first since still alright climbing Peres. I got a mechanic who recommend me changing it because the fact that it’s easier to climb…but I think he’s hard selling it.

Yeah 630 to 7 just nice and not to hot when reach Peres peak.

105 to ultegra wont feel much difference, mostly reduce weight and better front shifting I think. I've been using 105 from the 5700 to 5800 since 2015 until 2020 without any issues, changed bike to force etap felt nicer to do multiple shifts with 1 tap but I cant say I was any faster, just have more batteries to charge. not exactly lightweight either, currect bike 800g heavier than old bike on 105 despite costing double the price.

11-28 to 11-30 it depends, if you have trouble doing reverse peres/reverse hantu/the wall tunku/gohtong/burger hill GS then try 11-30, I changed from 11-28 to 11-30 while keeping the same 105 RD without any issues.

he is not wrong geh...
i also can tell u that 11-25 can make u go faster on the flats... due to the less cog jump, u dun feel the sudden jerk.

in the end is about the balance of what you are focusing on.

My TT bike is a 53/39 11-28
My RB is a 52/36 11-32

both bikes also i can use to climb peres, i can PR with my TT bike easier.
i can climb with big chain ring or small chain ring depending on my mood of that day...
the reason i got the 11-32 is to prepare my supposing-ly Taiwan trip (possible wulin climb)

630am still abit dark.
645am is best but sometimes the toilet got Q then later abit.

Ic ic but your W/KG still outclassed me many times over... lol...

I guess I got no excuses as I need to ride more and control my consumption...

Anyone riding from jln gombak to janda baik tmr? 3Dec 2021/ JOm~

Went and do a bike fit yesterday. Since the bike is the right size for me, there is no major change. Just some slight fine tune and suggestions to try out one by one as I ride along.

berapa damage ?

450 T.T

Whether worth or not we'll see when I do a longer ride after changing my seatpost and pedals.

He suggested I switch to proper RB shoes and pedal. Currently using MTB clips.

This post has been edited by andrewhtf: Dec 2 2021, 11:48 AM

phew

so he just suggest u to change pedal only?

Why need to change seatpost?

can you translate the bahasa rempit to malay please?

he said i should move saddle 3-5mm more forward but saddle already adjusted max forward. so proposed to change seatpost to non-setback so i can move the saddle abit more forward. current one have 15mm setback. not to say cannot ride but he say i will subconciously try to push back to place my sitbone on the fattest part of saddle. so might as well fix it.

based on current setup, he also suggest to shorten my stem by 20mm, but kautim the saddle position dulu and i might not have to change or shorten less. oh ya he raised my handle by one spacer up... i think by 5mm. i have always wanted to do that on my own before fitting but i thought, "eh, higher means less aero lah". he said "being aero is just a natural result of your own body and legs pressing down on pedal lah, not because you purposely lower down the front"

pedal is because my left leg length is slightly shorter than right leg, he said if i am using rb cleats then we can cheat abit by putting spacer on the left cleats to extend my left foot reach to pedal. it doesnt work the same on mtb type cleats. for now he slightly lower my seat height to compensate for the left leg, right leg have to work slightly harder lor. earlier he also suspect my current pedal could be the cause of my numbness and he swapped out an SPD pedal for me to try out, indeed it feels alot more stable and "locked-in" but the numbness issue still persisted. so it fall back to me whether i want to change out to road pedals or not. my concern still the same - i will destroy road cleats very fast since i walk off the bike alot.

This post has been edited by andrewhtf: Dec 2 2021, 01:11 PM