bottle paint - RM6
spray can - RM30
lining markers - RM9
surfacer spray can - RM24
surfacer bottle - RM15
thinner 110 - RM15
leveling thinner 110 - RM16
masking neo - RM15
metal paint series - RM9
topcoat - rm30
masking tape - RM12
tamiya cutter - RM89
craft knife - RM16

now...you need to do your homework and scout everywhere if you wanna find cheap stuff or the stuff that you want...

just sitting around and wait people to mouth feed you wont get you anything...

This post has been edited by VincC454: Jul 4 2007, 10:04 AM

yup...agree with this statement as well...
ur easiest resources are here, everything from shops locations to all itsy bitsy parts u need for building ur kits..
some detail parts aren't available locally where u can obtain from online retailers such as hlj and rainbowten to name a few...
then, u have to go and look around physically to get all the things u want...
there are forum members that do sell these details part but u have to contact them urself..
have a nice day modelling..

hello guys..im relli new in modelling..plan to start off this hobby with a few beautiful planes..my question is..
1)how do i practice my painting skills before moving on to the big thing?
2)is airbrush a must?a bit expensive for me..ive noticed the spray can type of paint at model shops..can i use those to replace the airbrushes?
3)do i need normal paintbrush?
3)what are the basic tools i might need to start painting or building a model?

i dun know anything and it makes me feel bad..

1. just keep on painting your model la..practice make prefect mah..remember..skill never come overnight...you need to work on it...with effort

2. airbrush is not a must...unless you want a very nice looking model..then maybe u need one already...there is many spray can out there..dont care hardware one or model one...spray can cannot do the effect like what AB can do...shading and all that...the spray can are good to spray on a large area..and get a smooth finish...

3. normal watercolor paint brush will do...

4. paint, thinner, brush, cutter, sandpaper, etc...deja vu

This post has been edited by VincC454: Jul 4 2007, 03:37 PM

just wondering........
does any one try to mod those unmovable hands and legs??
to make it to be able to move?
cant find a guide any where at all...not sure any one did this b4 or not...

to those who r new to the hobby.. welcome..

my advice for newcomers are:

1st: do some reading 1st.. internet is full with abundant info on how to start plastic modelling.. if u think it's too much to learn.. always go to their tutorial section.. those are usually easier to catch up.. u might find new terms and technical jargon/tools.. don sweat.. come back here and ask again
(tamiya.usa got some tutorials, or just try type "gundam", u'll end up wt millions of website, simply look for those proper website that has tutorial sections)

2nd: start building ur kit. if u worry u'll screw up the kit, don worry.. if u r into gundam, try Bandai's Master Grade line of gundams.. those are user frendly nowadays, shudn't be much problem even for new comers.. jus that painting will be a challenge for time being
if u r into tamiya kits, well, u rili need to do basic study on how to glue ur kit and paint it.
my 1st paint job screw up big time. 95% of ppl who painted their kit for the 1st time dislikes their work, they think they'd screwed it up..
well.. its normal.
painting fails, paint again lah... (u just need window cleaner to clean/ strip away your paint if u r using tamiya/gunze acrylics. try not using gunze's lacquer for beginners, and never try to dip ur kit in thinner, never.. ever..)

3rd: practice.. practice.. practice..

and Goodluck!!!

This post has been edited by erh_teo: Jul 4 2007, 04:47 PM

i use nail remover to remove the paint....
using gundam pen though.....

but i have search the net but cant find waht i wanted....a mod on those hand and leg of low grade gundam.......the arm and leg cant move at all...

that particular mods requires u to be very patient..
for static joints like the NG 1/144 kits, u need to cut the elbow and knee and create a new joint using pla-plate,extra polycaps or even ball joints..
for starters, try to get HGUC 1/144 kits bcoz that particular kits are better in term of articulation on most of the joints and make it as ur reference on doing mod joints for ur NG 1/144 kits...
the best one is getting and MG kits as its articulation is a good reference...
have fun..

erm...no other way than to use those joints??
like created something of ur own....
got site that show this kind of mods???
thanks....
dunno what its called in the first place

for an NG 1/144 kits, what u c is what u dont get actually..
the box art always show a lot of articulation, and most of it were taken from either HGUC or MG box art..
once u build it, thats it...
elbows,knees,wrist,waist r static...
limited movement on the shoulders,hips,ankles and the head..
u need to separate the elbow and knees then create ur own joint to make it movable..
so far, i havent seen any progress pics on NG 1/144 kits regarding joint mods..
sorry...

oh....that's y hard to find....

hmmm.....
have to think of something....

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Added on July 4, 2007, 7:41 pmbtw...thanks for the tips....

This post has been edited by beehawk: Jul 4 2007, 07:41 PM

i can use industrial spray? seriously...? dude...i heard it melts my kit...i dunwan to hurt my gundams...lolx...and whats gunze mr.hobby mr. super clear (TM BTS price) for? tqtq

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Added on July 4, 2007, 10:02 pmwhoa! man ...so many stuff! gundams really make us save up bucks!
so those can help us in gundam building and painting? btw... u mean we put a bottle paint into a spray can or wad? i dun really get it...

This post has been edited by zheyuen: Jul 4 2007, 10:02 PM

No lar, that one's just a generic list. If u use spray cans, then u wont need the paint bottles.

Basically if u're intending to spray, then u just need these:
- spray cans
- top coat
- primer

however those can be pretty expensive already, considering that each spray can costs like RM24 to RM30

then for the lining, u can use either the gundam markers, or u can use Tamiya Enamel paints thinned with Zippo lighter fluid with a fine paint brush.

can use those industrial spray cans...
1st, prime ur kits for color spray to stick to ur kits...
it also will create some sort of protection to ur kits...
dont spray to near...spray it light mist for few layers until its evenly coated...
gunze mr. hobby mr. super clear is the clear coat spray...

Hey Vinc... is really great for u to create a tread Like this. Should be very usefull. Especially with a Sifu like you here.

I have a question bout CHrome, Silver, aluminium or watever in these catagories..
Are you guys able to get wat you really want for all these effect?

Lets take example.. Now i want to repaint My Leader Class Optimus Prime... those grey plastic parts to CHrome finish like in d movie.. If I just buy the CHROME paint then i will surely get the effect? I dont really want silver.. with those tiny glittering thing in it after paint.

Kinda confusing when choosing paint between all these Chrome-silver-aluminium-metalgun..etc pls share some tips here

well..sincerely also...i never get what i want also for the metal effect

even if i use those mr.metal series paint...

i use aluminium one before...not shiny
gold one also not shiny and not yellowish
never try chrome silver before..actually mr.metal bronze also looks like a gold...but again..i never try it before

for shiny silver paint(forgot the no.) those leave those tiny glittering effect on your surface

cliv.. u r talking about chrome effect rite (like mirror one rite)?

nope.. u won't achieve using those effect..

the closest u can achieve is shiny but stil "can't-see-ur-face" effect.
and that one have to use gunze's super metalic series (last time sold at rm35, hard to find here la)

those chrome effect is achievable due to electroplating, put the plastic in chemical running under certain electricity. normal ppl can't do one woh..

This is such a COmplicated knowledge. Ha ha..

I just bought mr color-metalic-Silver-primary.... I guess this one is the lacquer paint right? d one with more special cap for us to turn.

Havent try it out. But since im going to paint on transformer..which involve a lot of hand touching mayb scratching... is best to use this lacquer paint compare to acrylic paint as d paint is stronger... Please correct me if im wrong

Can I directly Painted on top of d plastic? Or should I need to Primer it first? Like gundam-----sand-primer--paint--topcoat.?

got 2 types of paint, either in bottle or in spray can...
in spray can just like u see in shopping complex, open cap, press nozzle and voila, ur kits got paint...
bottle paint is different...like u buy buncho poster color but this one for model kits...
u thinned this bottled paint using respective thinner then choose ho u wanna paint ur kits, using brush like water color or using airbrush...
hope this help..

here's something that I find rather useful. Not to do with actual modelling itself, but helps a lot in the finishing.

if u've got a decent camera with decent optical zoom, take various zoomed in pics of your model, different parts of it from different angles, in good lighting.

study those zoomed in pics, and u might find that there's various areas that needs cleaning up that u may have missed, as its easier to detect those by studying pics taken with good light and zoomed in, compared to scrutinizing your model with your naked eye.