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Model Kits Model Kits/Toys Painting, Building, Modding Thread, Q&A about tips and technique here

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TSVincC454
post Jul 18 2007, 09:34 PM

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now...let me clear out about decal...

shiny silver - normal glue sticker, the most lousy one
green - normal glue sticker
blue - water transfer
white/transparent - dry transfer

so which one do you mean?
the wet one? or the normal green glue one?
applies them slowly and press them from side to side to avoid bubble underneath

TSVincC454
post Jul 18 2007, 09:47 PM

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lol
the green one always the second lousy decal...
try to use mr.setter..it rid those bubble when you applying
TSVincC454
post Jul 20 2007, 11:04 AM

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i think he means by fading is to make those line not that bright and obvious...

then yes...you answer your question already...
you need fine tip gundam markers and also an eraser

the set one are for coloring..not for lining...
TSVincC454
post Jul 20 2007, 11:17 AM

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at least go get those square faber castel eraser la...better grip on the eraser
gundam set rm59 one is all for painting purpose, all of them come in thick head.

lining you need those fine tip gundam pen

and for your brush question...any cheapo brush will do..dont care what brand.
if you planning to paint small parts...then get either 00 or 000 size brush...

my tools list thread..some of the list item are gone due to the database corruption yesterday...i will repost them back soon
TSVincC454
post Jul 20 2007, 11:41 AM

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thinner doesnt make you paint shiny...thinner thin your paint...as they come in the bottle...they are kindda thick inside..

depends on what paint you wanna use..oil base paint need thinner to thin...
TSVincC454
post Jul 21 2007, 11:39 AM

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QUOTE(Demon_Eyes_Kyo @ Jul 21 2007, 10:20 AM)
Was wondering for new models, can i just spray a topcoat on the white so that it doesnt turn yellow after some time?
*
yes can...topcoat always can be spray on unpaint models...about preventing the yellow in the future...i dunno how long the topcoat can do it...but it definitely slow down the process
TSVincC454
post Jul 22 2007, 08:02 AM

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and if the paint spider webbing everywhere when you spray...means you not enough thinner and need to add more..



This post has been edited by VincC454: Jul 23 2007, 09:48 AM
TSVincC454
post Jul 23 2007, 09:48 AM

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QUOTE(leroy87 @ Jul 21 2007, 06:29 PM)
vince, do u have any idea how to paint the one in the red Sandoguken gundam, the "corak" at the head ring and the leg ring, from your models it doenst look liike its from the stickers...
*
i never use sticker for all my kits..those silver sticker are just too lousy.
if you mean the black pattern on the head ring and the foot ring..then i do draw them myself
TSVincC454
post Jul 24 2007, 10:06 AM

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can..normal gundam fine marker should do the job good enough
TSVincC454
post Jul 26 2007, 09:13 PM

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for sandpaper...if you really wanna paint your kits...then sand it with 400 first then go with either 600 or 800 grade paper...

after that of course prime it first then only paint...
TSVincC454
post Aug 6 2007, 03:50 PM

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its actually a mr surfacer 500/1000/1200

and actually whatever type of paint also can...doesnt mean only can us lacquer type

do weathering is a hard stuff...especially when you never done it before...so take it slowly

and for tank model...better make sure u topcoat it with flat
TSVincC454
post Aug 6 2007, 09:53 PM

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you can use those normal pastel for drawing one for model kits also..but of course u need to topcoat it cause the color can come off one if you not.

chalk pastel and i dont mean those buncho style crayon...lol
pastel can get at art shop and those big big stationary shop
TSVincC454
post Aug 6 2007, 10:37 PM

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add with thinner...i hate using surfacer with AB...it somehow always clog my AB and hard to clear it back

me always end up with the spray can only...but bloody expensive one can and most of the time we use surfacer alot!
TSVincC454
post Aug 7 2007, 02:32 PM

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^ thing the same problem happens to all type of AB..the clog happen at the tips end of the gun...so wherever the feeding cup is located also..think it wont solve the problem primer clogging the AB
TSVincC454
post Aug 7 2007, 05:07 PM

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normal chalk pastel can be in many prices depends on their brand and quality

tamiya weathering sell around rm30-39 like that and can be found at tamiya underground 1Utama...all four of them...i use some of them before also...dotn really like it as it hard to stick on ur model.
TSVincC454
post Aug 8 2007, 12:52 PM

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QUOTE(clivengu @ Aug 7 2007, 09:47 PM)
upps, So vinc u always use the Can Spray to prime ur model? The last time(oso my first time) prime my BB freedom has almost use finish the whole can of 170ml Primer 1000. Feel very light now.. Usually how many models u can use for a can of primer?
*
actually no need to spray your kit with primer till the whole thing completely grey one...i just spray thin layer only so it cover up the sanding marks and also some seams line...

even the bottle one and use with AB..one bottle can only last for 2 or 3 MGs only...cans also around that much is you completely turn your model into grey...lol...

QUOTE(zheyuen @ Aug 7 2007, 10:28 PM)
sand paper wad grade best aa? spray booth? dun have wo...mask thn ada...but i do it outdoors...wont die ho? lol

tqtq ...
*
use grade 400 then smooth it with 600/800

no need spray booth also can..they are hard to get here locally and also expensive...
mask will do you good...you wont die instantly there if you smell the fume a bit...lol

if smell a bit then can die...then i die long long time already last time...

This post has been edited by VincC454: Aug 8 2007, 12:53 PM
TSVincC454
post Aug 9 2007, 12:50 PM

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and also to remove all those left over plastic from cutting them out from runners
TSVincC454
post Aug 10 2007, 10:24 AM

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QUOTE(zheyuen @ Aug 9 2007, 11:13 PM)
no...i mean wad shld i sand whn i build a fake gundam?
*
we already answer your question
3 people somemore answer you..that is what u do with sandpaper with your kits la...

fake or no fake...they are still the same..the only different is their quality

This post has been edited by VincC454: Aug 10 2007, 10:25 AM
TSVincC454
post Aug 12 2007, 12:41 AM

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^ many people damage this part...as the plastic there are very soft

you didnt exactly damage it just yet...still can use...it just the wing wont auto spread when you pull it..you need to spread the wings manually one by one to pose them.

no big damage one la...no worries
TSVincC454
post Aug 12 2007, 09:40 PM

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QUOTE(jlkueh @ Aug 12 2007, 12:56 PM)
To all sifus here, need your help......
I've done some HG gundam before, never bother to paint them, just cut out and snap em on smile.gif! Now that I've gotten myself a MG Titan MK-II, would really like to build it nicely. I've been following the posts here, very informative stuff, in fact some are really too "deep" for me to understand, ok, here goes:

1. Can I use the Mr. Surfacer to cover the gap lines between 2 parts snap together (called seams right?)

2. Can Mr Surfacer act as primer or base coat before painting?

3. I don't have airbrush, and model spray paint are hard to come by here in where i live. So if using industry spray, what should i take note of?

4. Will flat topcoat cover up the glossy feel of paint?

Thanks.
*
1. mr surfacer cannot cover seam...u need either super glue, cement, or putty to cover seams...

2. mr surfacer IS a primer...

3. like people said...its not recommended. sometimes it melt the plastic and sometimes i wont...
depends on the brand i think and also your luck...where you live anyway?

4. topcoat flat will change ur glossy plastic feel into dull effect...basically yes..i do cover glossy..
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