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Model Kits Model Kits/Toys Painting, Building, Modding Thread, Q&A about tips and technique here

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TSVincC454
post Jul 9 2007, 03:43 PM

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u use those lighter liquid with enamel base paint

lacquer stick with thinner or leveling thinner enough already.

topcoat are not clear paint..they are not the same..
i dont think that topcoat can merge with a dust...

clear paint most of the time are use for those to make wet effect looks..not for final protecting layer like topcoat.

This post has been edited by VincC454: Jul 9 2007, 03:47 PM
TSVincC454
post Jul 10 2007, 07:48 PM

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usually the black line will fade a bit if you paint other color on top of it...for example if you paint white after lining...then the line will be grey a bit..the obvious depends on how thick you paint on top of the line....

its better to do the lining after you paint the surface...
TSVincC454
post Jul 10 2007, 10:39 PM

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QUOTE(kuposaka @ Jul 10 2007, 08:43 PM)
this is the procedure of making my models all the time:

1. spray mr surfacer onto the runners
2. spray mr colour onto the runners
3. cut parts then cut the excess gates using nippers
4. assemble according to manual
5. take out every parts & spray again to cover nip marks
6. panel lining & a bit of weathering
7. apply decals
8. spray mr topcoat as finishing move

is there anything i miss, or put something that is necessary/unnecessary, etc, etc . .

one question, is decal applying after or before topcoat? smile.gif
*
this steps are more to easy side and sometimes good for starters...
but if you look at no2 and no5..this is consider waste of paint and double job already

but different ppl has their own different style to make their kits looks nice..hehe

anyway...its recommended that to apply decal first before topcoat...usually we never do anything anymore after the final topcoat.
TSVincC454
post Jul 10 2007, 11:17 PM

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one go is good enough...

for me..most of the time i spray one single thin layer only
TSVincC454
post Jul 10 2007, 11:29 PM

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neo mask act like masking tape...
its cover up the parts you dont want to spray or paint..

it come like a liquid paper form (green color) and when it dried..its turn into something like a rubber sticking on your kits surface..very handy stuff
TSVincC454
post Jul 11 2007, 01:36 PM

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QUOTE(300078 @ Jul 11 2007, 12:54 PM)
Why dun u just skip the part where u spray topcoat and color on the runner and directly spray them when u have them all cut down and have tried assembling. U will have more clear idea wat color and which color is missing, and also u get to settle the nip marks problem.
U know lah! Bandai sometimes dun care about those small different color part, they just make them all on a runner!

Who using neo soil mask, do teach me how to control tat liquid, it is darn hard to control......
*
yea...me use it sometimes as alternate to masking tape...those small parts...i use neo.
hard to control yes...but usually me use it like a liquid paper and instead of using the cap brush comes with it one...i use normal fine brush to apply the neo

QUOTE(GAT-X105 @ Jul 11 2007, 12:59 PM)
shocking.gif  where can i get all diz stuff?? shakehead.gif
*
QUOTE(duke_hunt @ Jul 11 2007, 01:12 PM)
look here bro..

List Of Toy Shops
*
yes...look at the list...
most of the the stuff can get from time machine BTS
TSVincC454
post Jul 12 2007, 09:49 AM

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i wash my brush with a little hardware thinner...thats it...
as long as it wont dry hard...then its ok already..

TSVincC454
post Jul 13 2007, 10:01 AM

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lol..model artist...

u need to be more details on what commission work you are looking for...
then only people can help you...

restoration project sound like a restore back an old building only...please be more details.

and for those pla plates...tamiya one usually around RM30...
and come in many thickness size

This post has been edited by VincC454: Jul 13 2007, 12:02 PM
TSVincC454
post Jul 13 2007, 12:02 PM

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GAT-X105,

non model technique question and gundam only related stuff please ask at gundam thread...not here!

thanks
TSVincC454
post Jul 14 2007, 01:08 AM

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tamiya pla plates is around RM30 most of the place.
how many pieces you need and how thick the plate is are totally depends on you...people use this for modding..modding means to do something that you want the kit to be..so it really depends on you what you want
TSVincC454
post Jul 15 2007, 08:01 AM

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^ if you sand then use surfacer first and take all off from the runner...

want clean and neat job is better to take them all off the runner and then only spray.

it is recommend that you leave the surfacer almost a day or half a day before you continue with other steps..
TSVincC454
post Jul 16 2007, 11:49 AM

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im updating the first page with tools that u need to build your gunpla or model along with their pictures...

but it still havent completely done yet...
TSVincC454
post Jul 16 2007, 12:42 PM

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use eraser if you use oil base lining pen(blue color body)..
this you no need any website to see how it done...lining can be rub off using those normal eraser...

using water base lining pen(black color body) are more easier as it can be taken off by just using cotton buts
TSVincC454
post Jul 16 2007, 01:41 PM

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yes...its a water base type..hard to find that one locally
TSVincC454
post Jul 17 2007, 11:03 AM

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that is the only way for you to fix the patch...white handpaint that part or use white marker

unless u really wanna fix ur freedom by sanding and painting the whole kit

think its time you paint ur freedom already since you really like it so much
TSVincC454
post Jul 17 2007, 06:19 PM

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hmm...if im not mistaken can straight use it without thinner...unless u wanna thin it more la...but i could be wrong
TSVincC454
post Jul 18 2007, 12:37 PM

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glossy or not that is your taste...

but spray primer is good especially after you sand it...
but it also ok if you wanna straight spray the white paint...

but of course..spraying primer first is recommended
TSVincC454
post Jul 18 2007, 01:44 PM

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topcoat is for final protection..but it didnt protect your paint from scratch off. primer make your paint stick better on your plastic. topcoat also protect ur paint from fading, yellowish, and also your decal and sticker

but for those transformable model..the paint still got risk of scratch off when transform process.
TSVincC454
post Jul 18 2007, 01:53 PM

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but if that kit had been your all time fav...its better to do it properly and dont experiment anything that you not sure what you are doing.

screw up kits can be fixed most of the time..but they are not easy to do and sometimes can be costly
TSVincC454
post Jul 18 2007, 08:47 PM

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lol zero...you geng already mah...

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