why cannot...

^ this is true
its better to drain them out from the marker and use brush

actually if you been building gundam for ages already
then you already can guess this part goes where...

like me...i just cut all the parts few more steps ahead...then only assemble them...unless those parts that look familiar together...then only i leave it on the runner first cause i need to know what their number later...

whatever also...if you pre assemble them...after done everything and prime them..you still have to take them apart again to paint...

can you guys not to chat like this in here

masking wont give those camo effect...
but usually ppl use sticky tack or something like a play-doh to do the effect

actually this is the easy way...
and the hard/sifu level they always do using ab and control the thickness of the paint flow and slowly do the camo pattern on the kit surface...

this is hard to explain as i need to find a pic example

can always ask sifu youtube mah if you wanna learn something

sparmax not really consider the most expensive...it just average price
iwata is the one expensive and also good quality

what you pay is what you get

sparmax for complete set around rm750++

i dont recommend get those cheap cheap one...
they rosak so easy and you need to spend more money to buy a new one

bleed one time only is always better than bleeding all the time

no iwata is too expensive for me
i use sparmax only (5 years of serving me now) only change minor spare parts one the gun part

i use those mini compressor also which if follow need to off and rest for 15 mins...

but then...most of the time i spray not more than 15mins also then stop to continue with masking or maybe sometimes to wash and change color...

i got 2 gun also but one is for color and the other for priming
color one use 0.3 and prime one use 0.5

480 + 250 +200

price could be different all the time
and you need to clean ur gun very frequent to prevent clog...once clog then you will have to do more work clean it up
and not easy also

This post has been edited by VincC454: Apr 12 2008, 11:49 AM

hlj sell one izzit same size as tm sell or not

empty jar got many sizes one la

aiyo
its different bottle...

the one tm sell one is like surfacer bottle...means its short and wide inside and also 2 layer of cover caps...means air tight and also metal cap cover

the one tamiya one are like their own acrylic paint la...open inside and no more second plastic cap inside already

i got plenty of the empty paint bottle...
all also useless
you want ar...lol

enamel paint and enamel thinner wont harm/remove lacquer paint
so it safe

but enamel do harm ABS type of plastic...use to much on it will make the plastic thin and crispy
you know la after crispy what happen

lol...i just use one brush only for all type of paints
get those expensive one...then you can save buying so many brush

yes...and if you are unlucky...it turn yellow less than a month
heavy or direct expose to sun also will make the decal faster yellow

expensive one tamiya lo
long last abit...get those fine one
they stay fine for sometimes also

go to xl...
they sell those tamiya fine brush for rm14
that one very good

can you read all the few previous pages first before keep one asking deja vu question over and over again?

all your question here already been answered 1000 times already in this thread

you ok but im not...
this is not kopitiam for repeating question
if you so rajin to answer him again and again...then help him find the link to the previous post that got his question answer and then post it as a reply

This post has been edited by VincC454: Apr 20 2008, 09:48 AM

bottle one i assume you got ab to use with rite?

i dont expect you mix with thinner then handpaint the primer on you kit

and about this one...
you dont wait till the blue part come off in the water then only take the decal out...
how you wanna applied the decal when there is no more the blue paper...u might end up damage the decal or worst accidentally fold the decal

you soak a bit inside water...leave a while then use nipper bring it out from the water along with its blue paper...to the kit and use cotton buds to slowly remove it from the blue paper and into the kit surface where you want the decal to be place.