yes..super glue does leave those white marks after dry...but you going to prime it what after that...then paint it...so no worries about that white thing lo

even with surfacer...you will still have the risk of melting...
surfacer just to make your paint stick better on the plastic...not to prevent from melting or make your plastic stronger

tamiya cement or whatever cement for model kits can be use by anyone...expert or beginner a like...it just a glue for plastic anyway...

gundam kits never use any cement at all or sometimes use very little cement...but tamiya model like cars, tanks all that, then cement is a must

This post has been edited by VincC454: Aug 13 2007, 02:19 PM

2 different thing...and their price different for a reason

industrial paint are made for multipurpose or heavy duty usage...so the pressure are stronger and also the paint are more strong against kits plastic.

model spray are made for model kit plastic...so they are mild and wont harm your plastic even if you accidentally spray them too much.

same goes with hardware thinner and model thinner...
hardware thinner can be use for clean up btw.

about ur cement question..yea that will work.

and no need to wait till you got AB only start assemble your gunpla...just assemble them first...and can always paint later...
wanna wait for ab, considering their price, calculating your budget...then your gunpla will never see the light of being build at all

acrylic use acrylic thinner...

lacquer use normal hobby paint thinner...those like mr hobby thinner or leveling thinner

enamel can always use zippo liquid as a thinner

you feel more confuse and dizzy if you keep on asking more and more question...

the best thing to do and to learn is to hands on...ask little question and try more..practice more yourself...you learn better that way...

there is no short cut in learning something...and learning means you will do mistake at the beginning....but people learn from mistake...

trust me...me myself also still learning and also i discover many new technique in painting when i actually practice with them...nobody become an expert overnight...remember that

detolf is ikea product..
so ikea lo

lol...it still looks toyish..
time for weathering already now...go get those chalk pastel already
or the easy way...those tamiya weathering kit

oh yea...you can also use white color pencil to make a scratch marks on your tank

This post has been edited by VincC454: Aug 17 2007, 01:53 PM

weathering first then only topcoat...some of the weathering effect wont stick to your model one..not till you finalize it with topcoat

there is many type of grey from mr hobby paint..you can choose which one suitable for you kits...
how to get? buy la...lol...if you mean where to get..the Time Machines at Time Square

white gloss paint with topcoat flat will make the white dull back...
so meaning no worries there already...

lining marker will be hard to rub off after paint...especially oil base marker.
also you got a risk to accidently rub off you paint also sometimes...

lol bro sunny...
think many people and new to gunpla wont know much what is enamel wash and weathering always not recommended for those you just started gunpla-ing...but drybrush is good...especially for those inner frame

lol...enamel is expensive...and little also

it is not advicesable to use laquer for lining...best stick with enamel

if you use the same type of thinner that use for spraying then yes..it will wash away the paint you just spray
but what for you using thinner anyway if you are using just lining marker...just use eraser good enough already for oil base pen.

i dunno...but my way is to spray first lining later...

thinner are needed to thin the paint...since most of the time the paint come in very very thick form.
cleaning your tool and using to thin the paint use different type of thinner...

and lol...you wanna dip you dirty black color brush into your bottle of thinner then want the whole bottle turn into black ar? what a waste

of course u need to pour the thinner our from the bottle then only wash your brush...

those tamiya enamel? got it from aunty lenny

you mean like remove the paint? then its possible but must be very careful not to use too much thinner...and never use hardware thinner to do this kind of job...you might end up melt your plastic...

but sometimes...model that been paint fo sometimes already...they are harder to come off even using thinner...

use normal blue label mr hobby thinner will do...no need leveling thinner unless you wanna use it with airbrush...

its a water base decal if you talking about old HG eva model...

let it float on the water for a few second than stick it on the surface...do it slowly as they like to stick together and once it stick together its as good as throw them away...

the background color of the sticker determine what base they are:

blue - water base/wet transfer
green - glue sticker/direct transfer
white - rub on/dry transfer

this apply to whatever decal out there...not only for MG...

they all are standard

you u can stick like sticker...then its a glue base decal...
and somemore...even if HG and NG got a decal...then its most probally a glue type decal

no doubt dry transfer more easy to use than water base...but still the nicest among all is the water base one...cause it stick and leave no marks at all...leaving it looks like been paint or printed on the body...

but applying water base decal is one shitty job

please keep the thread clean...

thanks